midweek wines – week 28 2018 – a double ruchottes


Seemingly a week that’s dominated by world cup football – if I can ignore Wimbledon (poor Roger!) and the Tour de France! I’ll see if a double Ruchottes can occupy me…

2009 Ramonet, Chassage-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
My run-in to the semi-final wine.
Despite a wet line of wine through the cork, this has a young, lemon yellow colour. The nose actually gets more and more reductive in the first minutes it’s open – a toasty reduction rather than fireworks – though slowly it begins to trend towards fireworks. In the mouth, fat as always (this vintage) but with an outstanding length of finish – all creamy noisette before a mineral line. The mid-palate flavour also has some minerality and even touch of tannin. Always an impressive 2009, but so far, not a particularly delicious one. In the flavour profile it reminds me a little of my 93 Meursault-Cras from Voillot – with a little less acidity and more fat – which implies it needs another 10 years and that strains my confidence due to ‘normal’ corks…
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Frederic Esmonin, Ruchottes-Chambertin
My semi-final wine…
The nose starts with a blast; deep, earthy – exciting! It’s almost a surprise that it tightens a little with air. Plenty of volume in the mouth, impressive intensity, still a suggestion of tannin – and that earthy, faintly bitter, finishing flavour that’s redolent of the first nose. A relative youngster this wine – the energy and flavour complexity making for a great ride. In this era I often found the Ruchottes chez Esmonin a little lacking – but this bottle, not a bit – excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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