There’s some impressive attention to detail in the work to renovate the wall of the the Clos Marey-Monge (presumably with some funds from the ‘climats’) but don’t tell that to the single-file traffic waiting their turn at the lights! I don’t expect that all will be finished before their Rootstock weekend, but I applaud any owner who invests in the infrastructure of their vines and vineyards rather than (yet another) Jeep Wrangler special edition!
Entries from June 2018
beaune: chemin des vaches but its horses that are ploughing…
A short and easy (apart from the hill!) morning jog to take advantage of the cool – this week it’s becoming scorchio in Beaune. Nice to see a horse (and team) being trained to plough, at the bottom of Les Teurons, on the way back to Beaune centre…
weekend wines – week 26 2018

Three winners this weekend, including two honorary Burgundians, one of whom sadly missed:
2014 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Relatively pale colour. The nose has a small vibration of minerality but is relatively tight. Wide over the palate but with such a ripe, almost honied flavour that I’m surprised I’m drinking a 2014, not a 2015. The flavour holds long with something of a nougat style note in the finish. A wine of width rather than of line – and I was looking for line today. Delicious nonetheless…
Rebuy – Yes
2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
A rare DIAM-sealed wine where the wine has traveled halfway up the ‘cork’ – but clearly not to the detriment of this particular bottle.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has admirable purity – starting red-fruited but the shade deepening with aeration. Good volume in the mouth and a fine, layered delivery of fresh flavour – slowly mouth-watering with just a faint anecdote of tannin. Pleasingly long. Simply a delicious wine – with almost a black fruit – more open and less strict than it was a couple of years ago and certainly a wine of line rather than depth or texture – it went great with half a roasted Bressé chicken from the Beaune market!
Rebuy – Yes
2008 David Clark, Vosne-Romanée
Hmm – some of David’s other 2008s are a little acid-forward right now – but not this one, not a bit! Directly a pure, fresh, faintly spiced Vosne nose – so inviting! So delicate, and softly complex – but with beautiful definition and also with faintly floral anecdotes in the finish – beautiful! Whilst a long way from ‘mature,’ this is already ravishing…
Rebuy – Yes
new signs on their way…
too many grapes? – sunday’s walk between morey and gevrey…
The 2018 vintage: It’s certainly starting to look like some dropping of fruit will be required in places. I counted some vines with 16 bunches – that’s almost as much as the worst I saw in 2017 – 18 – and I’m sure I could have found vines with more if I’d been patient.
I remember Benjamin Leroux telling me last December that he doesn’t like to green harvest, it clearly being better to start with the right number of buds – but sometimes nature does its own thing – in 2017 he did his first green harvesting since 2002. It looks on the cards again, if not for him, certainly for some vignerons in parts of Morey…
Note my suffering on your behalf – the horseflies got me in Charmes – not very charming!
mainly nuits les crots on saturday – château gris…
midsummer beaune….
We arrived in Beaune about 9pm on Thursday – I say ‘in’ but that’s not technically correct – virtually all the entrances to the centre of Beaune were blocked. A little local knowledge, followed by reversing 300 metres up a one-way street finally got us to our usual parking place. Why? Well it’s midsummer’s night in Beaune and there are bands galore – at least until 11pm – the bars largely going to 11h30-12h00 – even those that normally close at 10pm.
And the ‘bands?’ Let’s just say that there was was something fort everyone! From traditional LaLa singers, to French pseudo-Muse, to Southern Boogie, to not so Deep Purple and eventually the best school disco ever. That’s midsummer Beaune.
It was clearly a very hard night, because Friday and Saturday seemed much quieter than usual!
auxey, meursault, blagny, puligny – today’s 10km walk
Today was the day – almost 10°C cooler than 2 days ago, but beautiful weather. Breakfast in Le Montrachet to give us enough strength – then 2 hours of walking…
May’s Burgundy Report:
May’s Subscriber Report went live on Thursday.
Highlighting the first meeting of the ‘Les Aligoteurs‘ where I managed to taste only half the wines – after 77 it was becoming too hard to differentiate – plus I still had to drive back to Beaune! The producers were arranged alphabetically and I started from A. If they do it again next year, I’ll start from Z so as to be sure to have them all!
But it’s not just about aligoté, there’s also more than 100 wines from 2016 – Mâconnais and Chalonnaise – plus a few domaines revisited, including a dozen producers of Moulin à Vent and a tale of two Ponsots!
























































