a little mid-week griotte – another successful 1997


The 1997s have been a revelation in the last year; they were quite good when young but then entered a long phase of spicy, leathery aromatics with neither focus nor distinction – for a long time 1997 was aromatically one of my least favourite vintages. Today it’s quite different for the better wines because their true secondary aromas are now centre-stage. Here another great showing…

1997 des Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin
This is the Leclerc version of this wine, that said – today it’s super. It lacks the fabulous delicacy and perfect palate of the Ponsot bottling but is certainly more robust than my last one of those – after 30 minutes my last Ponsot was becoming oxidised – I’m not sure I have enough bottles remaining to determine whether that was just the cork or the cuvée…
A beautiful nose of clean, sous-bois, deep and silky – it’s an open invitation to drink. Mouth-filling, sweet-fruited, with layers of flavour – simply delicious. There’s a slight balsamic aspect to the acidity – but in a good if not totally caressing way – holding a good density of flavour in the middle. The finish could be longer, but given the delicious nature of what’s gone before, I’ve nothing to complain about here. Super wine! There is none left for day 2 – always a strong indication of how a wine is drinking…
Rebuy – Yes

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