2013 Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet
A faint, slightly reductive, toast on this nose – the depth hinting at a little grapefruit – which becomes more and more overt with aeration and as the toast fades. Fresh but with a melting width over the palate rather than direction. The flavour is of slightly sweetened grapefruit and has a nice focus and good tension. Versus its early days of youth this is a little more discreet today, but it’s still very Puligny and with a sneaky length too. Very enjoyable…
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
I pulled out a 1997 of this, but realised that I’d left that bottle in Beaune, so why not this one?
Deep colour. The nose starts with some strange, unappetising notes, but after 15 minutes of air it’s an altogether different proposition – modest of width, with a little more depth of mulled fruit and a fine, velvet width of faintly spiced complexity – yum! Fresh, a super line of acidity but with a strawberry-edged padding to balance the acidity. Still a tiny grain of tannin which, coupled with the shimmering fresh fruit, shows plenty of youth. Not the most powerful finish but still a brilliant length for a villages label. The only negative I can see is that it becomes overly soft and indistinct as it reaches room temperature in the glass. Great villages that you could start drinking – if you wished – but there’s clearly no rush…
Rebuy – Yes

We finished the the week of the Grands Jours with the Paulée de Marsannay.

The last time I went (2014 I think) I’m sorry to say it was a very boring affair, the combination of a very ‘quiet’ table and an interminable ‘presentation’ by Jonathan Nossiter – whose speech was (seemingly and thankfully) prematurely terminated by the growing crescendo of noise from people who were being kept from their food! Quite a dangerous thing to do in France! It was such an experience that I declined an invitation the following year. This evening a couple of excellent and couple of quite good plates of food, and whilst we had less magnums than some of the rowdier tables, overall it was a nice evening! I brought the Griotte and it was fabulous – but only for 40 minutes – the long cork smelled oxidised but the wine was fine – though it oxidised in the glass if left more than 30 minutes…

Saturday was our trip back home after 9 days in the Côtes, but a small detour to Gevrey was necessary, to enjoy the open house at Domaine Trapet! Anbd what a difference 24 hours makes: just before the big hail-strom in Beaune on Friday, I was planning Jogging in a t-shirt and shorts (for the second time this year) – in the end I gave it a miss, but on Saturday evening at hme – jogging in full wet-weather gear, in 3°C and some snowflakes!
 

Friday’s last tasting was with a domaine heavy on Volnay – 11 bottles tasted – ‘Please take something with you, we are also going to have to find people to drink these now that they are open’ – hence the couple of Clos de la Chapelles – notes to follow in my March report, after publishing the February report first 🙂 The Raveneau 2010 Montée de Tonnerre was in Au Fils du Zinc – well you have to, don’t you? And whilst delicious, round and beautifully focused it has a somewhat easy flavour and structure. I prefer the same vintage’s Butteaux which is also available in AFdZ for much less than retail.
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2008 Jean Chauvenet Nuits St.Georges 1er Perrières
Ooh – that’s a fruity-fresh nose – lots of raspberry to go with red cherry. Mouth-filling freshness and so much energy. Mouth-watering the finish – no surprise. It has the acidity of 2008 for sure but such a juicy and delicious wine at the same time. Yes – but not for acid-phobes!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy les Batardes
A fabulous nose – deeper than most Irancys but with the tell-tale wild and floral fruit of the village. Deep, textured. Wow pinot, fabulous Irancy. Top wine.
Rebuy – Yes