Entries from 2017

2017 harvest – 02 september

By billn on September 02, 2017 #vintage 2017

Amid rain-showers, a quick tour around the market – where I met a couple of Kiwis from Rippon and Carrick who are here to harvest (JM Millot and JJ Confuron) – and updating in the apartment, I won’t be touring the vines today, but I see Charles Lachaux is under way today:

14h45 this afternoon:

2017 harvest – 01 september

By billn on September 01, 2017 #vintage 2017

A tour in the Côte de Beaune this afternoon. There’s not much red being picked yet – Lafarge was at it, and I saw red grapes being triaged at de Montille – but Pommard and Volnay seemed very sleepy – maybe it’s the weight of all those grapes on the vines! Meursault and Puligny were busier though. I bumped into Francois Bitouzet who was harvesting I assumed Meursault Santenots – but no, it was Les Corbins! He’s very happy with what he’s taken in so far – last year the frost left him only 12 barrels from the combination of two vineyards – this year it’s over 50. Tomorrow he’ll be picking his Meursaults Charmes and Perrières. Talking of Meursault (pictured) I watched a picking machine work in this 1er Cru – in such ideal conditions I feel very unhappy at such an approach – a wine that will retail for at least €40, often double, deserves to be better treated, indeed probably needs to be better wine too!

Then on through Puligny. A brooding sky this afternoon – threatening heavy rain – but apart from a short shower early in the afternoon, just a very fine day for harvesting.
 

July 2017 Burgundy Report online

By billn on September 01, 2017 #reports

[For subscribers] A profile of Saint Amour – is that even possible? Blind tasting about 50 St.Amours is of-course no-problem, likewise visiting ten new producers. Then back to the Côte de Nuits with a sniff of Chambolle-Musigny and much more Vosne-Romanée.

Here.

louis chenu’s 2015 aux clous

By billn on September 01, 2017 #degustation

2015 Louis Chenu, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous
Ooh – what an aromatic wine! The nose actually tightens with a little aeration, but the palate just gets broader and longer. The nose reaches equilibrium with a macerating cherry – but soft, without a sharp acid edge. In the mouth it’s as aromatic as the nose started with an exceptionally floral accent to (again) broad cherry fruit – it seems a little short to start but keeps getting better and better – but this time with more definition and focus to the cherry thanks to the beautiful acidity. Weight, beautiful silky texture and a compote of fruit and flowers. You can find more academic Savigny, but never one more hedonistic. To luxuriate in – such a beautiful thing!
Rebuy – Yes

1996 thomas-moillard corton clos du roi

By billn on August 31, 2017 #degustation

1996 Domaine Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi
This was a virile, impressive, painfully young wine when first purchased – but it was always a thrilling ride. Today it’s as virile and acid-pointed as it ever was, it also seems to have a thicker, more viscous texture and concentration too. The problem with this wine, though, is that what was once painful but fun, is today mainly just painful. There’s more than a little flavour development, but there’s no engagement today. I don’t hold out a lot of hope for the remaining three, or-so, bottles, but it’s not a bad conversation piece! It is what it is…
Rebuy – No

2017 harvest – 31 august

By billn on August 31, 2017 #vintage 2017

Really the most important thing to note is that yesterday was a hail-free day. I believe that some of the hail canons were lit in preparation but were not, in the end, required. Still, there was 25mm of rain in some places – it’s certainly a more overcast and cooler day for harvesting today, with rain forecast for the weekend too – then dry and sunny. The rain is very much welcome for those not planning to harvest for another 10+ days – that’s the Côte de Nuits mainly…

And to compare with a photo taken by me 6 years ago today, to-date, not a bit of this in 2017:

2017 harvest – 30 august

By billn on August 30, 2017 #vintage 2017

Erwan Faiveley has been advertising his up-comng harvest on LinkedIn of all places – and as you can see (right) having a little fun on the way too!

Yesterday, the 29th, saw Coche-Dury picking a trio of Meursaults: Perrières, Genevrières and Chevalières (Armand Heitz is bringing in his Perrières today) – but it was a tough day with the afternoon peaking at just over 35°C! The team of Olivier Lamy were also in the vines – already into their 5th day of harvesting – cutting the grapes in St.Aubin Les Friones and En Remilly.

That was yesterday, but will today be something of a denouement for the vintage? Despite some rain at the weekend, the vineyards remain dry but strong storms are forecast today – thunder and lightening – let’s hope that the precipitation remains (unlike Champagne last weekend) in a liquid form. What seems more certain, is that following todays weatherfront will be much cooler weather – plummeting to 15°C tomorrow and only slowly recovering next week – maybe into the mid-20s°C.

Today, is see that (amongst others!) Olivier Leflaive and de Montille are starting their harvests, the teams of Chandon de Briailles are picking Corton Blanc, Domaine Leflaive are picking Chevalier-Montrachet, Thibault Morey is picking his St.Aubin Dents du Chien – so far, it seems a rather traditional vintage, with the whites being mature before the reds in the Côte d’Or. I also see that Le Grappin are starting their first harvests in Beaujolais – so good luck to them. But spare a thought for Nicolas Rossignol – his Volnay Taillepieds is already partially harvested – but not by him – it was either the dear or wild boar from the woods above the vines! See below:

And tomorrow, I’ll be in Beaune, my home team starting their harvest campaign on Tuesday…

a 2005 chambolle wow

By billn on August 30, 2017 #degustation

The last wine I opened was a great wine for the vintage – 2007. But there are decent vintages and great vintages. This ‘mere’ villages wine from the very epicentre of greatness in the great 2005 vintage is easily the better of that 2007 today – despite the rarity of that wine…

I feel slightly ashamed that I haven’t revisited Antonin Guyon in Savigny since collecting this case of 12 – I thought it was a standout in the their range of 2005s – though I had the feeling that I was overpaying – that case cost something like €220 – how times have changed!

2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village
The strong depth of colour is beginning to take on a little maturity – but only a little. What a big, encompassing, nose – one that starts with spice, tobacco and leather – quickly shedding most of those references, leaving a powerful and earthy, almost fecund red fruit – yes! Mouth-filling – so much volume of flavour from the get-go (unlike the Clos St.Denis that slowly widened and widened) – there is still a lick of fine tannin here, lots of intensity, and a mouth-watering finish of modest bitters and fruit that just clings and clings. That 2007 had a little more class in the finish, but this wine brings more joy in every single remaining dimension. A delicious, still young, bundle of joy. One-third of the bottle made it through to day 2 – it was tighter, the fruit a little more monolithic, but still with a fine finishing intensity – so drink up on day one!
Rebuy – Yes In a shot!

adieu arak…

By billn on August 29, 2017 #sad losses...

I’ve had the fine fortune to have visited the estate of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair and family since 2004, that year to taste 2003s and then every vintage since. An ever-present in this time, has been the family dog – Arak – a large-boned and very noble, almost aloof Weimaraner – pic (right) from the family.

This week, the family lost Arak – I thought I’d share this little anecdote with you.

I drove into the courtyard of the Château de Vosne-Romanée about 5:30pm in the late summer of 2006 – in those days Louis-Michel was less swamped with visitors, so I was tasting alone with him and his 2005s. As I parked, Arak came bounding up to the car, barking. Now if you don’t ‘know’ dogs, or were simply unsure, you would not have got out of your car – Arak was an imposing beast. Right behind him came Louis-Michel, saying ‘Don’t worry about him.‘ I replied ‘Not a problem, it’s just that my dog is also in the car and even in the shade I’ll need to leave all the windows open.‘ “Oh, that’s not a problem” volunteered Louis-Michel “I can close the gates, and the two can play together while we taste!

A nice offer, but I had some trepidation: My 3 year-old boxer, Belle, absolutely loved people – and most dogs too – but there was this 1 in 6 chance that she might take a dislike to Arak – as my neighbour’s dog, only 2 days earlier, might have attested as she flew through the air – though it was never a question of teeth, as Belle’s thick rubber lips would always get in the way! As I opened the tailgate of the car, and noses met, I thought to myself ‘Don’t you dare attack the Viscount’s dog!’ But all was well – a match made in heaven for the pair!

Louis-Michel and I left them to it and we moved to the cellar.

We’d been tasting for at least 20 minutes when one of Louis-Michel’s vineyard workers came down into the cellar with a message for him. Louis-Michel excused himself for 5 minutes as he had something he needed to attend to. A couple of minutes later I heard the piercing wail of a young child – in a very short space of time I put 2 and 2 together and raced out of the cellar – there, in the middle of the courtyard, sat Louis-Michel’s daughter – roughly 2 years old – with a boxer dog licking, licking, licking her face – my instant reaction was ‘Shit, she didn’t attack the Viscount’s dog – she chose his daughter instead!‘ Before I had the chance to say a word, Louis-Michel’s wife, Constance, came out of the front door, saw the scene and (oh so fortunately!) simply laughed, shouting to her daughter “Don’t worry, she’s just saying hello” – the relief! Just a few steps behind Constance, came Henry, their son – perhaps more like 4 years old – Belle had a new target.

It was clear that Henry came from a military family, because rather than sit and cry as he was licked, he stood straight-backed, trying to lift his chin from a jumping boxer’s tongue, and with a small toy gun in his hand, he tried to bang it on her head as she jumped, saying ‘Non! Non! Non!

Arak looked on, bemused…

Red-faced, I decided not to visit again with Belle…

Burgundy Report

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