Entries from 2013

a few new things…

By billn on November 04, 2013 #other sites

lausanne
Dreamy tasting location: Lausanne last Thursday…

Believe it or not, I’ve actually been doing a lot of typing! What that basically means is that an annual Burgundy Report will be winging its way onto the net after my last tasting appointments – so roughly by the end of this month.

Additional things I’ve seen, include:

Cheers!

last weekend’s bottles…

By billn on October 31, 2013 #degustation

WP_20131030_003

A modest, but very tasty set of wines that accompanied DVDs and popcorn (amongst other choice materials…)

It’s nice to reflect on the diversity of wines; here the lovely Passetoutgrains probably cost not much more than 10 Euros, but (on a different price level) last night I was also able to taste (okay, I took the train, so drink!) the 2010s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The DRCs were clearly very special – though quite stemmy, I wonder if that was the Zalto glasses, I haven’t used those before – but in the right context (Star Trek or whatever!) the David Clark was hard to beat! NB the last pour was very cloudy from DC – no filtration there then!

offer of the day – Faiveley 2012…

By billn on October 30, 2013 #the market

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2012 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2012 75cl 69.80 Swiss Francs
Pommard Les Rugiens 2012 75cl 78.00
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2012 75cl 98.00
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2012 150cl 201.00
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2012 75cl 119.00
Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 2012 75cl 119.00
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2012 75cl 228.00

GRANDS CRUS
Echezeaux 2012 75cl 139.00
Corton Clos des Cortons 2012 75cl 139.00
Corton Clos des Cortons 2012 150cl 283.00
Mazis-Chambertin 2012 75cl 169.00
Mazis-Chambertin 2012 150cl 343.00
Latricières Chambertin 2012 75cl 158.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2012 75cl 235.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2012 150cl 475.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2012 75cl 598.00

Corton Charlemagne 2012 75cl 159.00
Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet 2012 75cl 229.00
Bâtard Montrachet 2012 75cl 248.00

And, of-course, you need to add tax to those prices – lucky it’s only 8% in Switzerland (I suppose…!)

I really only have one reaction here – Ouch! – and the obvious one that I won’t be buying. I do remember buying the 98 Clos des Cortons in mags – they were 98 francs. I wish my house and salary were worth 3 times more in that time…

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part dix)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 29, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

But actually, days 11 and 12 – 11 being the last harvest day.

The wood burning stove thing looked like something out of an illicit still operation from the backwoods Southern USA. Très bizarre! Romain A was using it to heat ‘pure’, for bio purposes, very hot water although the initial lighting of the wood using a blow torch(!) A large vessel containing the water being heated sat on top of the stove with a plastic pipe running from it to draw off hot water. Romain was using the hot water to clean the screw thread mechanism thingie from the destemmer which was caked in a black gunge. Using the hot water and a scraper he got the metal parts back to clean, bare, metal using the wood stove heated hot water – this took up most of the day I think.

I could quite easily have brought Mystique home with me. Reckon he enjoyed the vendange as much as anybody & a return to quiet and no occupation at the Arlaud village maison & yard will be a little odd for him at first – doubtless his bird and rodent hunting activities will fill his days !

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part neuf)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 24, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

And whilst this is part nine, note it’s not day nine – it’s day ten as we had one day off…

my weekend bottles…

By billn on October 24, 2013 #degustation

rebourgeon-mure-mugneret-gibourg-chezeaux

Sadly the ’59 Clos St.Jacques was just a bit too oxidative to be any fun but its replacement was altogether more interesting, concentrated, silkily textured and rather intense – the 2005 Dr.Georges Mugneret, young vines Ruchottes-Chambertin (a.k.a. ‘villages’ Gevrey-Chambertin) – yum – that was a wine to savour.

To replace the Mugneret came the 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay – too simple to follow the 2005? – far from it; what this wine lost in absolute heft and intensity, it more than made up for with perfume and absolute deliciousness – just a gorgeously adorable villages, I’m pretty sure I don’t have enough!

My last wine for the weekend was the 2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin ( or D&V Berthaut Gevrey – it is the same wine). This had the same core of beautifully sweet but elegant and energetic 2010 fruit as the Rebourgeon-Mure, there was just something a little more robust about the Gevrey structure – lovely wine still, but my maximum love for the weekend was reserved for the Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay.

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part eight)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 23, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

Day 8, the Thursday, 10th Oct 2013, one week after the start of the Arlaud vendange saw us experience the worst weather to date by some margin, and for me, to then the most seriously unpleasant weather I’d ever experienced in a vendange. It had rained heavily overnight and was much colder. We commenced under dark, cloudy, skies c 7.30 a.m. by finishing Morey 1er cru ‘Cheseaux’ from the previous afternoon.

About 8.30 a.m. it started to rain and gradually got heavier. I carried on picking keeping low to the vines for shelter without realisingI’d been abandoned, not understanding the en francais calls to do so. By the time I was shouted in to join the others and got to one of the double cab trucks with a vacancy I was extremely cold and wet and with a full realisation I had not dressed that morning with enough layers. I really feared for my subsequent health. Things were so bad Herve Arlaud went back to base for unheard of coffee (none of which made it to our camion) and also boxes of gloves of some sort as many of the younger vendangeurs were picking gloveless which must have been horrific.

The grapes in Cheseaux were actually pretty nice, unlike the weather. Once the rian eventually stopped, although it was sort of in the air all morning, we finished Cheseaux and moved on to Blanchards. I remained cold and wet all morning – it really was a gritted teeth, shivering, exercise to get through to lunch – before I started to eat I spent betwen 5/10 minutes leaning on the refectory log stove getting warm again. A very, very, very testing and most unpleasant morning – partly my own fault for not being more appropriately dressed but looking back count myself fortunate not to derive at least a cold if not something more serious.

As the song says “Things could only get better”. They did for the sunny afternoon concentrating on the 5 ha plot of Bourgogne Roncevie (5 passes by the full team), but little did we know it that Day 8 was a precursor of worse horrors for Day 10 & 11 on the Hautes-Cotes.

1988 savigny champ chevrey from tollot-beaut…

By billn on October 22, 2013 #degustation

1988 tollot-beaut savigny champs chevrey

1988 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champ Chevrey
Hmm, the sniff after removing the cork smells a bit cooked – maybe an hour in the refrigerator to give it a cool aeration. The nose now has a little soy sauce and meat and a darker slightly pruny depth – not magnificent, but still no turn-off – a bit of time and it gets ever-more interesting. In the mouth this is rather delicious, smoothly textured until a lumpy mid-palate ride where both the tannins and acidity jolt around a little, but with a sweetness that comes from ripe fruit and a lovely depth of flavour – I find it very moreish. I suspect that carefully stored examples may be even better, but I certainly wouldn’t ignore this if it passed by my corkscrew!
Rebuy – Yes

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