Did I mention there was also a Griotte to open? – well, it’s so long since I opened the Fourrier! Now I should also correct myself; Esmonin was one of the rare bottlers to say ‘Griottes’ rather than Griotte!
An interesting trio these 99 Esmonins; the Mazy was smooth but full of concentration, power and not a little tension. The Ruchottes was equally smooth but of a lower order of concentration and showing a little oak – then there’s the Griottes which (frankly) far from met expectations; perhaps technically a less good wine than the Mazy, but from a character perspective, the best of the three – now you don’t often get to say that about Griotte(s)!
1999 Frédéric Esmonin, Griottes-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour – still with a little cherry-red shimmer. The nose has a mineral, earthy edge before swirling releases dried currant fruits, finally lovely red berry fruit – even hints of raspberry – hmmm. Intense concentration abetted by perfect acidity. The tannin is is just a little more than ‘background’, and certainly has an astringent edge. I’m bowled over – a Griotte with real character and a little extra dimension in the mid-palate – a Gevrey dimension at that. Chalk and cheese versus the 02 Fourrier – today I’d much, much rather drink this. Character is king…
Rebuy – Yes
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Hi Bill, Hope all’s well. Have you ever tasted the 99 Esmonin Chambertin? I can’t find anything about it but see you’ve tasted a number of their other 99’s. Thanks
Hmm – I thought I had – but don’t find a note. I have the wine in the cellar and plan to drink it in my ’20 years on 1999 round-up’ in the summer – I also have the other grand crus including the Bèze.
Usually I find the Bèze and Mazis better than the Chambertin that he used to buy – but let’s see.
Cheers
Thanks Bill. Would be keen to know your thoughts once you’ve tasted.