I’m starting with a cold. Today it’s only a sore throat but it might be my last bottle for a few days if it spreads to my nose.
Context notwithstanding, this is a wine I’ve been looking forward to open, particularly after tasting the 2006 with Patrice Rion. Here is the last of the run of Bouchard Clos St.Marc cuvées, the 1998 was stunning on it’s last outing – I’m just sad that there’s only one more of those 1998’s in the cellar. This bottle is expensive – 70 Swiss francs – it’s not particularly great value at that, but there is certainly quality and it’s hardly one of those shy, retiring 2005’s right now…
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru Clos St.Marc
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a forward blast of oaky and mineral tones. Time in the glass gives red fruit and a coffee, mocha-tinged almost texturally furry nose – it just shades more blue with time, and it never stops improving. The palate is muscular though the tannin is buried by the concentration, but what is discernable is finely textured. Excellent acidity with good dimension in the mid-palate. The finish has decent length but is currently one-dimensional. It’s an excellent Nuits – no question, approaching grand cru – though it’s definitely 2nd class in terms value versus the previous Daniel Rion.
Rebuy – Yes