two 2001 malconsorts – one was definitely mal

15.12.2008billn

malconsorts bouree vosne romanee

I decided to open this pair over the weekend; both négociants, but in this case the Thomas is a ‘domaine’ wine – these are the vines which are now exploited by de Montille. Unfortunately I didn’t have a bottle of the Clos Frantin wine handy as their 01 was early in the Bichot renaisance and, from memory, is a very nice wine. First points went to the Bourée – the extracted cork smelled of sweet fruit, that of the Thomas had only bottle stink – actually it was worse than stink, it was taint. I’ll be taking that one back to Nuits in January for a replacement. Even more reason for being sad that I didn’t also have the Frantin bottle…
2001 Pierre Bourée, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsortstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose, whilst still reasonably primary, sets high expectations; heavy with red fruit concentrate against higher tones of stems and, if you don’t swirl, an understated pot-pourri of herbs. In the mouth there is some fat, then acidity that finishes just a little tart – like under-ripe – before a very nice extra dimension of creamy fruit. The understated finish, whilst long, seems to pick-up a slightly metallic note from that acidity. I’ve never been acid averse, so despite this being less than perfect, there’s enough character here for me to buy a couple more (it’s anyway a good price) for later reflection.
Rebuy – Yes

2001 Charles Thomas, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsortstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. Classic TCA that didn’t fade an inch in 3 hours. The palate below the taint seemed not so bad, typical Moillard chunky rusticity offset by good depth.

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 4 responses to “two 2001 malconsorts – one was definitely mal”

  1. Tom Blach15th December 2008 at 4:37 pmPermalinkReply

    Does Thomas-Moillard still physically exist, Bill?
    Actually the 01 Malconsorts is pretty nice in its particular way, and I bet it will age well.

  2. billn15th December 2008 at 4:55 pmPermalinkReply

    The label still does – I bought some 2005’s from their shop in Nuits last month (Malconsorts, Volnay & Pommard) though this 2001 wears the Charles Thomas label. It’s business as usual for Charles Thomas/Thomas-Moillard/Moillard – but without the family – management is via the new Béjot owners from what I can gather.

    Of-course the stylistic changes started to creep in from 2005 onwards, so all these Moillards when well-stored are bullet proof and will eventually repay cellaring – even if ‘eventually’ means 20-40 years. The only problem I have with this, is that I may not be around to ‘harvest’…

    Cheers

  3. Mark Gough15th December 2008 at 8:05 pmPermalinkReply

    Bill,

    Have you had a chance or opportunity to try any Malconsorts from Dujac or Montille since change of ownership i.e 2005 or 2006 ? I am right in thinking the Malconsorts now so owned are from Thomas-Moillard ?

    I am lucky enough to have both in 05, as well as Cathiard’s, hence am looking forward to a comparitive some years off. Montille is also bottling a small area of Malconsorts next to La Tache as Cuvee Christianne (named after his mother) isn’t he at a premium to the ‘regular’ cuvee ?

    If you haven’t tried them yet can you hurry up please & let me know your thoughts !!!

    • billn15th December 2008 at 9:22 pmPermalinkReply

      Hi Mark,
      I was just a little late for the allocation ‘bun-fight’ for the 05’s, and things were a little ‘hot’ still for the 06’s. For the prices asked, I’d rather (and did) buy La Romanée in both vintages. But I suppose if I bring one of those along, you might one day take pity on me and open up yours with mine 😉
      Cheers, Bill

  4. Mark Gough16th December 2008 at 8:17 pmPermalinkReply

    Hi Bill,

    Thought I’d missed the boat myself, on Cathiard at least which was a problematic tale, but was offered some late on – at a price that made me wince at the time but now looks ok. Dujac & Montille I got on second tranche late release. On 06’s bought nearly all vin blanc but couldnt resist a 6 pack of the Montille Cuvee Christianne which i guess might make an interesting contrast with the ‘ordinary’ Montille Malconsorts idc.
    Very happy to compare & contrast one day with you – keep reminding me.
    Best, Mark (not so ‘a Morey’ but wishing he was !)

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