Bourgogne

2001 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. A soft red fruit nose with a faint cedar top note, slowly develops more density to the red core and eventually a little redcurrant. Well textured with plenty of forward fruit and again a faint edge of cedar – but at this level it’s additive – I do though find the overall profile slightly jammy. A simple but balanced and quite tasty luncheon bourgogne that never quite gets the pulse increasing.

2002 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Just a little darker in colour. The nose goes darker and deeper; a hint riper and no cedar but clearly a few diffuse alcoholic overtones. In the mouth it’s fuller with an edge more tannin and acidity that is slightly tart – it’s not a problem, just it’s personality. On the back of the acidity is a little burst of intensity on the mid-palate before fading into the finish. Less smooth than the 2001 but more material. I look forward to making another comparison in a few years.

2005 Lejeune Bourgogne

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little backward yet at its base there’s sweet red fruit – almost jammy – and some musky-floral notes, the last drops are fine and red though. The palate has good concentration and smooth acidity that leaks darker, ripe fruit flavours into the finish and there’s some well-submerged tannin. In any other vintage this would be a super bourgogne, in 2005 it’s only ‘above average’. I find it’s just missing a little zing and zest, but I’ve had other Lejeune Bourgognes that turn out very well so I would say that despite it being not totally engaging today, this could get into quite a nice place in another 3-5 years. I think the odds are easily in my favour if I put a few in the cellar, if only for their handy 50cl size.

2005 Lignier-Michelot Bourgogne

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus colour with plenty of purple. Very understated nose – very little to say for the first glass, but glass two shows black cherry and a lovely red berry note as it drains. The palate is quite full, nicely textured and has good acidity that rolls into the finish. There’s a nice little burst in the mid-palate before you feel the slight astringence of the tannin. Lots of character here and enjoyed from the start.

1998 Lejeune Bourgogne

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium ruby red with a slightly amber rim. Very nice, if relatively advanced aromatics, a core of sweet baked red fruit, hints of camphor and cedar. The palate is sweet, shows forward acidity and grainy but not astringent tannins. The finish lasts but somehow seems a little ‘thin’. It’s a reasonable burst of interest on the mid-palate too. Pretty-much mature and very drinkable, if not the most elegant glass.

2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Bourgogne

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather excellent – concentrated red fruit that is edged with a green note – but this green is more about malo than than a lack of ripeness. The palate is racy and interesting with good but not great concentration – perhaps not even at a villages level (with price comes a level of expectation) – the acidity is just a little sharp in the finish. A wonderful nose and an okay wine; I think you can buy better at the price, hence the criticism, but as a ‘simple’ bourgogne this is wonderful!

2004 Gagnerot Evelyne Bourgogne

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deeply coloured for a burgundy of any appellation. The nose is quite glossy over sweet cherry fruit. In the mouth this manages to be reasonably well balanced; well concentrated but with slightly unripe tannins. Still there’s currently enough extract to buffer it, so almost good today, but I wouldn’t be looking to save any in the cellar.

2003 Dugat-Py Bernard Bourgogne

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose reminds of walking into a barrel cellar, very young red fruit, tinged with black and mixed with a strong vanilla component. Concentrated to a level way above regional wine, good texture and good enough acidity. Roughly medium-length creamy fruit – if it was any longer you might guess 1er cru. Bravo!

2001 Boillot Henri Bourgogne

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Medium cherry-red. Just a small amount of toasty oak against high-toned, slightly estery fruit. Good freshness and concentration but the tannin and palate are still a little angular and harsh. If this wood derived angularity smooths out this will be rather elegant, try again in 2 years.

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