Beautiful top to bottom aromas though less width than the 09, eventually with coffee and a little baked, spiced bread. There is plenty of tannin here – well structured. Fine flavours show themselves as your mouth waters for more.
Medium-plus colour. From the first pour this is an excellent mix of deep dark blue/black fruit against a mineral background. Hmm, this has a real lithe character, plenty of acidity – though not out of bounds – and no padding whatsoever. There is a whisper of tannin that shows for a second or two at the end of the mid-palate, just before the wine slinks away into the finish. Perhaps slink is not the best adjective as the flavour, understated as it is, lasts very well indead. The fruit is super, if completely linear. This is gives the impression of being ‘slight’ yet at the same time shows plenty of intensity. It is a wine that demands cellar time. The acid-forward character of the vintage is clearly visible here if not overwhelming – at eight to ten years it might be worth checking whether it has filled out at all, but this is a 20+ year wine.
The nose has less depth, but significantly more width and complexity; initially perhaps a higher-toned hint of mint amongst warm, green leaves and a tight core of fruit. Wow, a narrower entry than the Bourgogne, but waxy smooth before opening – w i d e – and growing and growing in the very impressive mid-palate with a super-tasty, slightly creamy agrumes flavour. The finish is about pure mineral and it’s very long. It’s a beauty.
There is a slightly more obvious whiff of oak toast on the nose than I remember than from the previous 12 bottles(!) though it remains an accent rather than a dominant tone; round and inviting the aromas remain. In the mouth also quite round with a late arriving, mouth-watering lick of acidity then the subtle extra dimension of fruit that has made this wine a standout chez nous. Still in a lovely place.
Medium-colour. Instantly the nose is overwhelmed by toasty oak – you have no other pointers – I left the wine in the glass for 20 minutes before returning. On my return the oak is a bit more manageable, finally there are some high tones that might one day aspire to something more perfumed and at least a suggestion of fruit below – even a kind of iodine note found on older whites. Likewise the first taste was sweet oak-water – perhaps pinot but nothing to indicate Burgundy. The texture is very smooth – certainly executive tannins – good balance, indeed the sweet oak gives the impression that the acidity is rather low – in a 2008!
I eventually warmed a little to the nose and even a little more to the flavours where there is both depth and a certain density, but on day 1, frankly I find – n o t h i n g – to indicate Burgundy! Shame, but hold your breath; I’ll leave it for day 2, meanwhile I’ll take a glass of Bourgogne Blanc…
Day two and the oak-toast on the nose is reduced to a little ash against high-toned, almost floral notes. Fills the mouth, still with plenty of volume and sweetness but there seems a heartbeat of energy from the acidity this time. Quite drinkable and I would say quite tasty on day two. Beaune? – I can’t say – I’d anyway buy the 07 in preference.
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