2001

2001 Esmonin Frédéric Ruchottes-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus relatively young colour. The nose starts wide but diffuse, slowly focusing to give a really impressive red cherry note. To start with the major impression in the mouth was the tart fruit/acid balance, this was moderated by food and seemed okay later – perhaps that was just me – the acidity remains ‘intense’ though is buffered by quality red fruit. Very little tannin and a finish that lingers as long as the mouth-watering acidity supports it – which is quite a while. Intense without obvious density, primary in both aroma and flavour – but engaging enough. Very young, it’s rather good, though it’s not ‘great’. Reminds me of many a ’96, with more primary fruit.

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2001 Jadot Louis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. There is already a little sous-bois on the nose, backed by a soft and sweet impression. Lovely fine texture, jammy fruits set aside lingering, mouthwatering acidity. This is very, very complex and already in the first stages of maturity.

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2001 Fevre William Chablis Le Clos

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Yellow with green glints. Deep, hints of green fruit, a faint impression of oak and sulfur, ripe melon – quite some depth. Intense, good acidity and very mineral – hurrah, super and rather young Les Clos.

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2001 Girardin Vincent Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Medium gold. The nose majors on a residue of toasty oak and fainter gun-flint aromas. The bottle lasted under an hour, but was actually becoming less interesting with time. After the younger wines of the previous day, this is significantly more mineral and wiry framed. Good acidity and density, yet the flavours do reflect the aromas. Complex for sure but I never really warmed to it – that’s a pure style judgement, so whilst I wouldn’t buy it again for me, I certainly wouldn’t tell you not to.

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2001 Lamarche Francois La Grande Rue

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Relatively young, medium intensity colour. The nose is a wild and really interesting melange of fruits – both baked and fresh – totally different to the 07, and just begs a wide-bowled wine-glass. On the palate it is fresh and shares a similar ‘volume’ to the 2007. Understated velvet tannin and good acidity. The finishing flavours are a little savoury and there’s some oak flavour in there too – though no oak texture. Faintly long – I was expecting more, but then comes a nice reprise so I was sated. This wine built width and dimension in the glass, so next time open earlier or decant. Lovely stuff.

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2001 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) A medium-plus colour – slightly more mature looking. The nose is back to the 2005/2003 archetype; wide, spicy, mineral, white pepper and just maybe a hint of violets. Again this is a mouth-filler and like 2005/2003 shows the dark, mineral and slightly saline character. Super length again and at this age it has lost all trace of bitterness in the first-class finish. After a while there’s a slightly disconcerting coconut aroma, but a quick swirl dissipates it. A super bottle.

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2001 Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St. Philibert

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Like chalk and cheese these two wines. The 2000 has a quite young, medium yellow colour whereas the 2001 is much more golden. Despite the colours, the 2000 is the more toasty and faintly madirised, the 2001 is aromatically much more like a classic white burgundy. The 2000 needs time in the glass as it starts also with madirised flavours – but they all-but disappear with 1 hour’s aeration, leaving some sweetness, good concentration and balance. The 2001 is very balanced but much more austere in the mid-palate and finish – just needs a little more sweetness for ’solo’ drinking, however, it fits really well with food. Overall, decent value wines that I occasionally see at reasonable prices on restaurant lists.

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2001 de Courcel Pommard Grand Clos des Epenots

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour at the core, just fading to salmon at the rim. The nose is a sweet mix of tea, coffee, forest floor and dark plum fruit. Immediate impact in the mouth, but then it smoothly melts across the palate without apparent tannin (how did that happen?) – at the start you have to look very hard to dig out the tannin, though slowly it starts to exert a little grip with faint fut finely grained astringency. The acid balance is lovely and a bitter mocha note follows long into the finish. It’s a wine of real character, young, but with more than a nod to some semi-mature flavours. A really personable individual.

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2001 Esmonin Frédéric Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

A medium-plus, young, ruby-red colour. The nose is a beauty; superb depth, remnants of dark oak, wide notes of turned soil, baked bread and a slightly peppery dark fruit. Slowly but surely a soft red fruit note builds in the glass, the last drops showing a super-precise and penetrating redcurrant perfume. In the mouth this is full, velvety and still shows quite some oak flavour. There’s a little high-toned ‘mouth perfume’ and a very long bitter chocolate and oak finish. To dwell on the oak would be to ignore waves of fruit flavour that wash across the mid-palate, not to mention another burst of flavour before moving into the finish. Clearly a very young wine, but it just oozes class; that it was bought en-primeur for less than most premier crus of 2005-2007 makes me love it all the more. Really, really super.

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