The fruit here is very pretty and red, dovetailed with high-toned notes. In the mouth this brings a fuller impression with velvet tanning padding out the palate. This finishes very well but balances by being much narrower in the mid-palate.
2009
2009 Pousse d'Or Volnay Caillerets
Medium-plus colour. Crystallised dark fruits play on the nose – with less overt oak than the villages Chambolle. The flavour of the oak is obvious but the wine has good tannin with just the right amount of ‘grab’ for a young wine – excellent width and complexity. This is a very engaging wine but without the common minerality of a Caillerets – perhaps it will develop as the oak fades.
2009 Pousse d'Or Volnay Clos d'Audignac
Medium-plus colour. There is a more meaty depth to the fruit than was the case for the Caillerets. In the mouth this is very finely proportioned, offering a lovely balance between the tannin and the understated (though just about perfect) acidity. The oak is here as a flavour component too, but it seems to be in a more supporting role than some of the other wines.
2009 Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny Les Grosseilles
2009 Ravaut Gaston et Pierre Ladoix Le Bois Roussot
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is an interesting thing – this reminds me of a 2005, I think that’s my first time ever with a 2009! Concentrated fruit – essence of raspberry – some high-toned, slightly alcoholic notes and dried herbs. Cool and concentrated with plenty of acidity, though far from too much. The flavour lingers on a (very) dark red fruit note. Relatively narrow in the mid-palate but with decent intensity, only a medium-plus (or so) length, but overall this is a quality wine – and did I mention the price…(?)
2009 Pavillon Volnay Santenots
Medium-plus colour. Deep, dark fruit with floral top notes and a hint of mineral – limited width but great top to bottom dimension. Full, rounded and quite sensuous; not too sweet and there is good buffering acidity. Dark fruit tones and a velvet tannin that you have to search for. Long lasting on a mineral note. More challenging than the Bouchard ‘baby Jesus’ today and a better wine for it – the future can look after itself. Super wine and something of a bargain.
2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus
Medium, medium-plus colour. Some high, tones, even hints of mint over a red and blueberry fruit with vanilla/coconut accents. Sweet, growing in the mid-palate with creamy, ripe fruit and very good underlying acidity. This is large-scaled and very long finishing, but it’s mainly in the vanilla-coconut register, which I find a shame today. Very easy to drink but in a, perhaps, non-Burgundian way. I’m sure that time will cure all my concerns.