From eighty year-old vines. The nose liberates nicely complex dark fruit. Full in the mouth, with understated tannin that still asserts itself with just a hint of ‘grab’. The tannin even grows a little in the finish, but it is a characterful addition to fruit that has more than one layer. Will be very good I think, but needs a little more patience than the Nuits.
The nose is wide and fine with pretty high tones, yet it is perhaps a little tight as it shows less intensity than the previous wines. In the mouth this is quite lovely; round, not a little brooding you are left with a furry tannin to remind you. This is clearly a little tight today but shows the hallmarks of good winemaking.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite different to yesterday’s M&P Rion; narrow, yet it plumbs impressive depth; redder with a note of cherry stones – blind, you would be unlikely to pick this as a 2009. In the mouth this has some fat, but there’s also a beautiful line of acidity that runs through the core of the wine. The crystalline fruit seems equally bright and quite fleet of foot too – nothing vaguely ponderous here. Quite long on a fading mineral note. Considering he’s such a late picker I have no idea how Laurent delivers such minerality in a vintage like 2009, but chapeau! Excellent wine that is far from the vintage stereotype.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a heavy musky fruit of impressive depth and quite some layers. Lovely texture that has just a hint of fat followed by a growing intensity of flavour – the intensity is turned-up by having understated but rather good acidity – given three or four years and the shrinking of the fruit’s puppy-fat and this could have just about perfect balance. The last part of the mid-palate, heading into the finish shows a good whack of extract and just a hint of bitterness in the finish, a very good length of finish. Full, frank and yet cuddly today, this has everything to deliver a compelling performance, but I expect that performance is the best part of 15 years away…
Medium-plus colour. There is a more meaty depth to the fruit than was the case for the Caillerets. In the mouth this is very finely proportioned, offering a lovely balance between the tannin and the understated (though just about perfect) acidity. The oak is here as a flavour component too, but it seems to be in a more supporting role than some of the other wines.
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