Floral notes over a dark, fresh cherry base. Sweet and silky – plush without being fat. There’s plenty of structure though it’s mainly buried. Good energy too. Very good.
2007
2007 Moreau J. et Fils Chablis Valmur
2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Very pale yellow colour. Perhaps it was a little cold, but this was very tight to start with. Eventually the nose starts to give up fresh apple fruit backed by cold (trifle) custard. In the mouth this is absolutely linear, firing into an understated but very long finish that has a little sweet vanilla attached. Only if you keep the wine in your mouth do you appreciate the weight of extract and feel the mid-palate intensity. This is a very tight but very good wine – to be honest I’m impressed, but I really expected to be ‘wowed’!
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
Medium, medium-plus colour. A hint of smoke (yes stems – about 20%, same as the Nuits wines above), silky width, but very primary. Intensity and width across the palate, balance and flavours that continue to seep from your teeth and cheeks after the wine has gone. Plenty of structure, but no hard edges.
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
The nose delicate and floral, very complex but also very understated, slowly hints of cream and wool are added. It’s a narrow entry that gets wider and wider as the intensity and acidity build across your tongue. This wine is mineral but today it is very tightly wound, and delivering none of the energy of the 1ers.
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet
A little deaper colour. The aromas start a little heavy and more forward, at the core there is fine complexity but this builds additional dimensions and balance as it aerates – a few minutes in the glass, and the heavyness is gone replaced by a ’roundness’. Really beautiful texture, complex, and with mind-changing mid-palate complexity. As it builds in power it develops an almost buttery texture, but at its core rather than over your teeth and cheeks. Only eventually does the acidity leach from the side of your mouth to prolong the finish. Really special and very approachable today!
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
The aromas are instantly panoramic, a little mineral and of fresh flowers, not as ’round’ as the Montrachet. In the mouth this is totally different; narrower (relatively!), more mineral and perhaps more muscular – just the same character as the red Le Corton – long and wiry. Supple and perfectly balanced, showing fresh flavours all the way into the finish. Really high-level Charlemagne.
2007 Giroud Camille Corton Rognets
Reduction that slowly lifts with swirling, all the while building aromatic colour – warm red fruit with herbs above. Full in the mouth with quite classy, fine and ripe tannin before you experience a burst of flavour in the mid-palate. Fasintly lingering flavour – majoring on fruit. This is a very pretty wine indeed.