Higher-toned. There’s more density too, but still a hint of must dovetails with the sweet fruit. Lovely flavours; the richer sweetness of 2008 mixed with its super acidity – I like!
2008
2008 Olivier Antoine et Rachel Bourgogne Chardonnay
Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit. There is some fat and sweetness but also a stonyness at the core. Well balanced with medium length. This is very good indeed, it doesn’t topple my benchmark 08 bourgogne, but then this is a about 25% cheaper!
2008 Rateau Jean-Claude Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
2008 Buisson-Charles Bourgogne Aligote
18 months of elevage! Patrick thinks this more concentrated than the 2009. Ex-domaine this was only €6 – what a shame it is (long-time) sold-out. This is a hint creamy smelling and very complex! There is minerality and nervosité here, backed by lovely flavour, extension into the mid-palate and finally just the right amount of richness to lift this from compelling to covetable! An aligoté that is worth a special search – shame they are sold out at the domaine.
2008 Buisson-Charles Bourgogne Rouge
This sells ex-domaine for €7.50 – the higher cost versus the aligoté is only the cost of the oak. Very good colour. The aromas are more understated than those of the aligoté, but deliver a nice cassis note. Tannic, but velvet tannin. Plenty of acidity pushes the flavours nicely long. A considerable bargain.
2008 Labet Pierre Bourgogne Pinot Noir
From vines in Chorey. Of course in 07 and 08 that meant a really strong sorting because of the whole bunch approach – almost 40% of the grapes were discarded! Medium colour. Lovely and very forward aromas of precise dark red fruit. Some slightly blocky tannin, very good acidity and crunchy fresh fruit. This is clearly a very accomplished wine for the label. I’d certainly buy this!
2008 Dublère Bourgogne Blanc
Cuvée Millerandes. Fresh with a super-intense core of fruit. Plenty of acidity but it has the foil of a rippling width of flavour. Stony fruit in the mid-palate. One critic ordered 6 cases after tasting this – I ordered a more modest one, which was clearly a mistake as they lasted only 2 months – then the domaine was sold out! One of the bourgognes of the vintage.