Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a creamy dimension to the fruit. Again, super-silky though this time the structure is less demanding – well to a degree! Very mineral again – super.
Comments for this entry
2005
2005 Clair Francoise et Denis St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien
The aromas start in a surprisingly floral/perfumed vein, slowly becoming more sedate with a faintly ripe yellow fruit and there are still hints of the almonds of it’s youth. Dense and ripe flavours that finish with a little agrumes. There’s plenty of fat and just enough acidity to balance. Certainly a very rich performance but very drinkable after a little aeration. I normally have in mind feminine adjectives with white wines, but there’s a builder’s muscle in here.
2005 Morey Marc Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
Medium, medium-plus yellow colour. A hint of sulfur, but otherwise soft yet penetrating notes of butterscotch and cream over ripe but very pretty fruits. Excellent intensity with penetrating acidity, this is both rich and powerful. In some ways it’s a little over the top and certainly starts a little chunky, but it really comes together with aeration. This wine is no shrinking violet – don’t go here for elegance – today it’s more of a swashbuckler!
2005 Ardhuy Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Deeply coloured. The nose has dark, brambly fruit and plenty of spicy, herbal aspects. In the mouth the acidity has become a little forward though far from overwhelming. A lovely borderline ripe flavour that has a hint of mint to go with its piercingly long finish – there’s added depth through the mid-palate. Rather smooth, this is very good now – even if it’s on its ’sleeptime downslope’. Very-much enjoyed.
2005 Remoissenet Père et Fils Mercurey Clos Fortoul
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a little mineral, some herbs and slightly cola-esque top-notes, but slowly a very, very pretty and slightly creamy red fruit note comes through. In the mouth there’s decent concentration, good acidity and some ripe, grainy tannin. Not fat but it’s a lithe impression. Faintly lingering. The structure hints to Nuits, but the fruit not. An interesting wine that has the balance for a long, profitable life.
2005 Clair Francoise et Denis St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien
A young, relatively pale lemon-yellow. Slow to open, but eventually quite round aromas that are perhaps a little alcoholic at the top-end, with ripe fruit and a hint of almond. The impression in the mouth is of a wine that’s become rather four-square, dense, and not all that giving. It’s clearly fresh enough and has a good core of concentration. The length is still decent in a savoury way. I don’t normally hold with whites closing down, but this is certainly quite dumbed-down versus its release.
2005 Drouhin Joseph Beaune Clos des Mouches
Medium, medium-pale yellow colour. The nose is quite forward and displays both width and aromatic depth. Faint butter edges yellow fruit, and there’s a hint of torrefaction at the borders that adds a butterscotch note to the ripe lemon fruit. Very good texture, balance, and with an intensity that keeps growing in the mouth. There’s none of that warm fat that is typical of a Beaune blanc, and there’s a good burst of interest in the mid-palate. The flavours of the finish have a more mineral aspect and is very, very good. Overall, it’s a great package – every sip was savoured.
2005 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets
Medium, medium-pale golden. After the Beaune, the nose is certainly of finer fruit and of similar depth, though less wide. Hints of lanolin and a faint, creamy brioche too. Softer, silkier, just a little narrower on entry, but on super acidity it expands across the palate much more impressively. It’s also very long with a more savoury element than the last bottles. Interestingly, all the constituent parts favour the Puligny tonight, but the ‘team’ performance is not quite as together as the Beaune’s. The Beaune has nothing like the density of the Puligny, and surprisingly seems the more mineral. Day two this is very ‘together’ and the clear leader.