2002

2002 Pousse d'Or Volnay Clos des 60 Ouvrées

By billn on April 23, 2010

Medium, medium-plus colour but quite an amber caste – I wonder how this has been stored. The fruit has a pronounced jammy aroma and some dried cranberry, eventually widening to give a dark cherry and some dark minerality at the core. Sweet in the mouth and there’s fine texture, too – the acidity has a slightly bitter prominence, but not enough to make you wince or regret the next sip. Actually it drinks very well. I have the feeling that it might have been stored at a high-ish temp at some stage during its lifetime, but it clearly survived the trip to all the way to the bottle-bank…

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2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By billn on March 10, 2010

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is very fine; there’s latent oak that brings a little espresso macchiato into the equation but essentially it’s about a fresh, dark red fruit and occasional faint whiffs of bacon. Smooth, fresh and intense, it’s a classic middle-years wine – forward acidity and a narrow, lean complexion, but long too. This will be excellent – eventually! I won’t open another for 5 years, but I expect I’ll need to wait another five for real dividends. Super.

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2002 Latour Henri Auxey-Duresses Les Grands Champs

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose has a dense core, but is generally hard to get at for over an hour – after, it has some savoury hints, faint estery top-notes but stronger and almost good red fruit in the middle. In the mouth there’s good balance – perhaps a little ‘thin’ in the mid-palate, but just now that’s a 2002 thing, it’s definitely not just this wine. Despite that, there’s a nice cushioned texture and a reasonable finish. Decent intensity in the mid-palate. This is a value wine and was enjoyed.

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2002 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour but a little younger looking than the 2003. The nose starts rather tight, only a few – though fine – higher tones. It’s wide and mouth-filling with a very nice impression to the slightly redder ripe fruit. Only from the mid-palate onwards comes the more typically mineral and spicy impression of previous wines. Still a bitter chocolate finish. The nose by now has added a small coffee-inflected dimension above a resonant red fruit note.

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2002 Jadot Louis Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

A medium, medium-plus intermediate age colour. The nose starts a little dumb but slowly adds width, depth and dimension – it’s about understated but polished fruit and a blend of spicy herbs. Like the nose, the palate needs about 45 minutes to one hour to get into a good place but then you have a mouthful of silky texture, decent concentration, the sweetly fresh fruit that is the hallmark of the vintage and a really super length that mixes faint caramel and oak flavours. Very well balanced and, like many 2002s, still partly in its shell – but this has super potential – I should say it also wasn’t bad on the night!

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2002 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour that’s just turning to offer a hint of mahogany at the rim. The nose starts with red fruit but also a dark, reductive undertow that initially makes one (wrongly) think to oak – it takes a little over 90 minutes (without decanting) to disappear. Over time the nose becomes lovely and transparent, just a little powdery and young though. From the start there is sweetness coupled to perfect acidity – it’s relatively narrow at the entry but there’s a tight core of concentration in the mid-palate – this also shows a dark, reductive flavour for as long as the same lasts on the nose. This is about transparency rather than impact and is exactly to the Fourrier ‘template’, if arguably not to the terrior. The finish a good one, if not really remarkable. Very tasty, indeed I would say its balancing of sweetness and acidity make it delicious.

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2002 l'Arlot Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-pale colour. Slightly smokey aromas followed by jammy elements. Medium weight and only late appearing tannins. Subtle length makes this wine quite nice.

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