1997

1997 Parent Pommard Epenots

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Again a deep ruby with no fading. The nose is very meaty and starts just a little reduced – with time red fruit comes through and griottes too. The palate is fat with very good tannins and good acidity. The finish is medium plus length. Today I’d rather drink the Argillières but long term this Epenots could be the favourite. Very good.

1997 Parent Pommard Les Argillières

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby, no fading. The nose is very low toned with an unusual meaty and spicy character overlaid with mushrooms, eventually something like cooked blackberries starts to come through. Dense and smooth with good enough acidity and strong tannins that creep up on you. The fruit is a little cooked, perhaps that’s why you get the impression it’s mainly black, shows above average length too. This is an individual and very impressive wine. Worth leaving another three years-plus.

1997 Hospices de Beaune Pommard Cuvée Dames de Charité, Bouchard Père

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby, no fading. The nose is primary red and black cherry, mainly black. Excellent fat black fruity palate with prominent grainy tannins and good acidity. Medium plus length, finishing slightly creamy – an excellent example, I like this a lot – now where can I get some more!

1997 Chézeaux Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Also from 40+ year old vines. Medium-plus ruby – just starting to brown a little at the rim. Starts with a waft of very deep and concentrated cherry, but a cedary/currant pie note gradually takes over. Fat and mouth coating, really super pure fruit, balanced acidity and absolutely the smoothest of tannin. There’s no denying the quality of the underlying material, but the woody/cedary note on the nose is also evident on the palate and is very similar in character to what I didn’t like about the 1991 Ponsot Griotte – it’s a transient thing though, as after two hours the cedary note is completely gone. There’s a super, ever changing finish, lovely wine.

1997 de Montille (Hubert) Puligny-Montrachet Le Caillerets

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

A medium gold colour. The nose gathers depth with time, with well integrated oak, faint petrolly notes and agrumes. Good acidity and a mildly oaky palate that is concentrated but very tight and initially a little flat in the mid-palate – certainly would benefit from another 2 or 3 years wait, the mid-palate really fills out with aeration. Super length that sneaks up on you. For drinking today there’s more fun to be found from J-M Boillots village Puligny, but for the long term, this is the wine I’d really like to have in my cellar.

1997 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Not deeply coloured – a ruby core gently fading to brown. High red tones – slightly cooked – against a mild-toast background. Not fat, but splendid fruit which again is a little cooked with currants coming through. There’s lovely length, I really like the depth and persistence of the fruit. The tannins are still quite astringent and are coupled with good acidity. Very, very good wine. Despite the relatively light colour, I’d personally leave this another 3+ years.

1997 Pavelot Jean-Marc et Hugues Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby colour, but there’s still a hint of cherry at the rim. The nose starts with deep black cherry then gives way to coffee, then gives way again to a pronounced meaty note. Fresh acidity with drying slightly grainy tannins. Good concentration black fruit here but despite this, the wine doesn’t come across as very ‘fat’. Seems very well balanced, perhaps a touch austere even – but no rush to open the next bottle. Should be good, but I’ll wait another couple of years before the next.

1997 Clerget Christian Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red still with a cherry rim. The nose soars with red fruits – cherry and raspberry and redcurrants hint of cream. A fat, concentrated fruity palate with extra creamy length another wine with apparently hidden tannins – unless you look for them – good acidity too. Excellent, a long life ahead.

1997 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Champ-Chevrey is a 3.6 acre Monopole of Domaine Tollot-Beaut and is actually a climat of the better known 19.5 acre Aux Forneaux on the eastern limit of Savigny. To make life even more interesting, not all of the Aux Forneaux vineyard is 1er Cru! This particular wine has a reasonably deep ruby hue, though is still showing cherry red at the rim. The nose is quite broad with, still, primary black cherry and even a little blueberry. The palate shows an earthy edge, good acidity and there’s also a pleasing creaminess apparent on the finish. Not profound, but very lovely.

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