Light colour again. Again a high toned nose, slightly alcoholic. The palate is fit rather than fat, super focused Charlemagne intensity. Super texture, really nice acidity and a great finish. Few words but great wine.
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Corton-Charlemagne
1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
1982 Roumier Georges Corton-Charlemagne
Deep gold. The nose retains a hint of toast, un-salted butter and sea-shells. There’s admirable depth, it’s all tertiary now – I can’t pick up any fruit – but impressive all the same. The palate has some fat, perfect acidity and a creamy finish of good length. Shows quite young – only with time does the nose become more diffuse and eventually the palate goes too – but this was a super wine for 45+ minutes.
1992 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium gold. The nose doesn’t have the depth of the Roumier but shows a wider horizon of creamy citrus fruit and a faint, high-toned soapy note. The palate, just like the nose doesn’t show the depth of the Roumier wine, but there’s a wider range of creamy fruit driven flavours – super length too. I like fruit – so I personally prefer this wine – despite it probably not being the ‘better wine’. Held up well in the glass – solid as a rock 2 hours later.
1997 Clair Bruno Corton-Charlemagne
Compared to Bruno’s Marsannay the colour seems okay, a pale gold colour. The nose has lots of depth, a little more oak than is necessary, but the fruit has a creamy edge. With time the oak fades and the pineapple fruit comes more to the fore, a little caramel too. The fruit is concentrated, even intense. Good length, even a coconut element which makes for added interest. A very good wine then, though not quite to the level of Bonneau du Martray’s. Will obviously continue to improve.
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Paler gold. Nose starts very closed, gradually a lemony note comes through just hinting at something deeper, the lemon becomes more lime with time. No fireworks on the nose but there’s a blast on the palate, perfect acidity and a true multidimensional palate. Very long too. I’d say this is both excellent and very young. I just might look to top the cellar up with a few more of these!
2001 Boillot Henri Corton-Charlemagne
Deeply coloured for such a young wine, a shimmering gold. The nose has a creamy fruit-salad sense to it, almost brooding. The palate is a Charlemagne tour-de-force with it’s upfront burst of flavour and stunning concentration – it was a challenge to drink the second glass – but I persevered!. Keeping the wine in your mouth brings thoughts of a stream gushing over rock, but if you need a respite and try swallowing you’re in for a shock, it’s like opening the curtains and letting in the sun as the finish unfolds with deep, creamy waves. Best young Charlie I ever tried – as if I haven’t bought enough white wine already…
1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Light yellow. The nose doesn’t burst from the glass quite like the 1997 currently does. With time and swirling you can coax out a little sugar coated pineapple. The mildly oaky palate has good acidity, understated concentration and a finish that builds and builds – I expect the opposite with Corton-Charlemagne! Seemed fatter with the langoustine and not bad with the goat’s cheese. Overall a bit disappointing