Drouhin Joseph

1998 Drouhin Joseph Beaune Clos des Mouches

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is soft, wide and red – perhaps with a hint of mint to go with many layers of fruit. In the mouth there is plenty of ripe, red-shaded fruit which shows an excellent length – I do, however, find the acidity sticking out just a little. There’s still some well-grained tannin that has plenty of balancing extract. Only the less than perfect acidity means that I don’t unreservedly recommend this. Still a more than interesting wine.

2001 Drouhin Joseph Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts wide, wild and fecund – very impressive – but within 25 minutes it’s a shadow of its former self; higher-toned, fresh and herbal – spicy but without the earlier power. The palate is lithe, linear and undemonstrative – somehow metallic tasting. On the plus-side there is excellent texture and an implied rather than overt power. The length is impressive if rather understated. If I’m honest, there’s nothing here today except potential and more left the bottle for day 2 than normal. Day 2: much of the nose is returned, high-class Vosne, almost textural aromatics. The palate has improved some – mainly the width and length of the finish, but whilst there is enough to tempt me to buy more – this wine has become very difficult to find – you really should avoid opening bottles today.

1998 Drouhin Joseph Clos St.Denis

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium red colour just a faint amber transition at the rim. The nose is deep, brown sugar and baked red fruit with some higher alcoholic traces and faint vanilla – it’s lovely. On your tongue you miss a little ‘fat’ and there’s just a bitter chocolate edge to the tannin, but the fruit is equally lovely and the finish is very, very long with a raisin-fruit edge. Value alone vs recent vintage pricing is enough to guarantee this being a ‘rebuy’ – it’s hard to find good 1er crus from 2005 at this price.

2005 Drouhin Joseph Bourgogne Laforet

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Bright medium cherry-red with a trace of purple. The nose is like a bowl of fresh cherries, a little tart and high-toned with just a faint edge of garden mint. The palate shows plenty of freshness and an unexpected intensity in the mid-palate. The texture is good and tannin only shows as transient rasp on the tongue before a almost good finish. In any other vintage this would be a great bourgogne, in 2005 it is ‘merely’ well above average – and did I mention the value – it’s only around €10.

1997 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

(Magnum) There’s a deep nose here, red dense fruit. The palate is soft and supple, impressively opening out with more power and intensity. Still a young wine, and dense too, but plenty of interest.

2002 Drouhin Joseph Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A deep core of colour, just the last vestige of cherry at the rim. The nose is deep and dense if rather bashful to start, showing little more than dark flashes of toasty, sweet oak – fortunately this remains an undertone before fading as a dense and primary deep red note comes through that becomes finer with aeration – I can only summarise it as ‘very sexy’. After wine #2 this is altogether denser, softer and with riper fruit too. It’s brimming with intensity and concentration – it’s a real mouth-filler – showing a lovely expansion in the mid-palate before slowly narrowing in the good finish. In the background there plenty of soft texture from the tannins, but they will need a few more years in the cellar to shrink. Everything about this wine is more fun and lush than the Jadot Bèze, if rather less tight and precise.

1999 Drouhin Joseph Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A deep core of colour, just the last vestige of cherry at the rim. The nose is deep and dense if rather bashful to start, showing little more than dark flashes of toasty, sweet oak – fortunately this remains an undertone before fading as a dense and primary deep red note comes through that becomes finer with aeration – I can only summarise it as ‘very sexy’. After wine #2 this is altogether denser, softer and with riper fruit too. It’s brimming with intensity and concentration – it’s a real mouth-filler – showing a lovely expansion in the mid-palate before slowly narrowing in the good finish. In the background there plenty of soft texture from the tannins, but they will need a few more years in the cellar to shrink. Everything about this wine is more fun and lush than the Jadot Bèze, if rather less tight and precise.

2004 Drouhin Joseph Rully

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is denser than the 05 Chablis, a little fatter too. Hidden in there is an interesting note that gives me the impression of beans – haricot blancs sounds better – but it’s much nicer than it sounds, honest! Made in barrel means the texture in the mouth is more plump and less mineral than the Chablis, but it gives a longer impression on the palate, there’s nice acidity too. Very good and stylistically very, very different to the Chablis which is my preferred style. The oak has added shape, rather than flavour.

2004 Drouhin Joseph Puligny-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is both wide and deep; neither fat nor high-toned it delivers subtle blossom and cream. Very well textured in the mouth, giving the impression that real muscle could be under the jacket, but the jacket stayed on in our short time together. There is good minerality and super acidity that pushes long into the good finish. Perhaps it’s just a little tight as there was little I could put my finger on – I summarised by writing ‘very efficient and understated Puilgny’.

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