Medium, medium-plus cherry red. A wide and rather subtle nose showing hints of earth. The palate is lithe and a little tannic. Good acidity and superbly wide, creamy complex flavours that go on and on. This does not have the density of the wines that follow but it’s a marvel in a glass and highly recommended!
Medium-plus colour. The nose is impressive with mineral and faintly animale notes mingling with dark fruit – very complex. Concentrated fruit magnificently covers the tannin. Linear entry to the palate, only subltly widening into the mid-palate before impressively bursting into the multi-dimensional finish. Wow! And I thought the Clos de Vougeot was good – this is fantastic quality.
After the frankly brilliant wines that preceded this, unfortunately we didn’t quite finish with a bang – this was rather unknit and apparently needs some time to settle: Deeply coloured. The nose at first is a little uninspiring – wide but ill-defined – slowly it improves and provides a little coffee depth. The palate is lithe with fairly well covered tannin, but it’s the cream-edged fruit that impresses the most – certainly the most striking of any wine here. The length is also, frankly, superb, but overall this is a wine today of parts and potential rather than cohesion. I’d happily drive some distance to taste it again once it’s settled down though!
Only 20 hectolitres per hectare in 2004. This wine’s nose also shows a super width with wonderfully precise notes of high-toned fruit though again today with limited depth. The palate is explosive – wonderful complexity and concentration – though the tannins have some grain about them – yet the overall effect is excellent. Super wine – the hard work really shows here.
Versus the Malconsorts; darker with a much tighter nose – almost unforgiving in nature – classic, austere, young Clos de Vougeot. Very linear in presentation, concentrated, long and backed up with very executive tannins – very fine. This wine makes quite a statement, and rather like their (Pavillon’s) Corton-Charlemagne, a wine for the future.
Medium-plus red, still with a cherry-red rim. The nose has a rasping mineral, indeed earthy note, behind there’s a lovely deep red fruit aspect – very good so-far. There’s some of that earthy aspect on the palate too (geosmin?) but the fruit is splendid behind, as is the overall balance. I’d like a little more length but this has very good base material – I’m concerned about that earthy aspect, but not enough to stop me buying a couple more for reference.
A later harvest for this wine – another 10 days after the ban des vendanges to allow the phenolics to ripen. Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose is sweet and starts a little heavy, slowly becomes a little higher toned over vanilla notes. The palate is fat, ripe and sweet, just a little purer cherry fruit at the back of the palate that follows into the vanilla driven finish. Tannins and acidity are conspicuous by their absence – actually everyone loved this, but I suspect it will be at it’s apogee over the next 5 or 6 years, rather than 15-16, not too much obvious ‘Vosne character’ either at this pre-release stage.
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