More typically Corton – indeed from the heart of Corton. The nose has a deeper, sweeter red note that slowly adds a floral dimension. Fresh and with a more apparent structure – long flavours that hold strongly. Sweet and red, but not artificially so – very nice.
From the top part of the Clos, the ground is very poor, it can be quite mineral. The ‘young’ vines are about 25 years old but the average is close to 50. Slow to open, you need to work the glass to bring out a red-fruited mineral impression – it hardly hints to the 100% stems that lie behind. Again there’s more structure, silky texture with an almost chewy backbone. Again a long, straight and powerful finish. Very, very good.
Beautiful colour – it still looks young – François thinks this intensification of colour is down to the stems. Imediately wide and warm aromas that slowly develop higher tones and fresher fruit to match – there’s plenty of mineral dimension to match. In the mouth this is sweet and well-textured – surprisingly fine and delicate acidity acidity for the vintage. The flavours are starting to be augmented by a little chocolate. A really super 1997, bravo!
Deep aromas; a little pineapple and even tarte-tartin. Straight, linear, good concentration – it’s very well balanced though the flavours are as tight as a drum – the texture is fine but the wine refuses to give up any flavour! Just a little burst of interest to get you into the finish, but no more today. I’m sure this will be excellent, but don’t return for 2 or 3 years.
From the higher part of Bressandes – not Charlemagne territory – which brings more roundness says François. The nose replays the tarte-tartin theme, but perhaps this time with a creme anglaise accompanyment! Concentrated and balanced – nothing ponderous about this Corton blanc as the acidity is just right. A wine to value in it’s own right rather than an as an ‘oddity’.
(Guessing) Rather deeply coloured, but a sniff shows that there is no overt oxidation. The nose has impact and power and reminds me very much of (a previously drunk) 83 Giroud Corton-Charlemagne, there is power and impact and some melting cream and lanolin in the background – I leave my guessing there! On the palate there is considerable power and quite some ripeness though it’s well-enough balanced (I think the 83 was much more mineral – but hey, it might turn out to be from Australia!). Very good complexity as it moves into the finish. Whilst not begging me to take a second (third!) pour – there are others to taste – this is rather good.
Medium, medium-pale. The nose is oh-so scented, an obvious note of stems is intertwined with floral aspects over warm, red fruit – raspberry. Smooth and balanced, with an almost ethereal melting flavour impression. Like the nose it’s a warm red ‘comforting wine’ impression. It’s very ‘giving’ but that’s far from the same thing as ‘mature’ – tasty now but will live and growfor many years in the cellar…
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