Just slightly paler than the 2002. Surprisingly the nose goes a little deeper and there’s a dark trace of oak. The wine’s a little cold, but swirling will eventually coax out some red fruit. Soft as silk, fills the mouth admirably. Fresh, lovely acidity. Needs more time than the 2002 and for me has an extra purity. Lovely, I suppose I’ll have to buy some of this too…
Bouchard Père et Fils
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château Blanc
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
Bottled in January, 2-3 months after the other whites. The vines are at the fop of the hill and north-east facing, Philippe believes that this cooler spot helped to preserve acidity this year. Lovely nose, hints of green, cream covered apricots. Instantly classic palate with tons of complexity – really good mouthfeel. The finish is a strong one, fading only slowly. A very good wine that speaks more of Corton-Charlemagne than of 2003 – excellent.
2001 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
Always a relative bargain this wine – assuming that it’s a good one of course: Medium cherry-red colour. The nose is faintly powdery and a little closed when cold from the cellar. The palate shows a linear delivery of tight fruit with good intensity but little fat. Very good acidity and a slight creamy impression to the medium finish. The tannin is still a little astringent but becomes softer and friendlier with aeration. I won’t return for at least 3 years, serious wine for the price.
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous
From high on the hill by the cross of St.Christophe, roughly north-east facing and often quite a windy site so typically providing an extra freshness. The soil is the same as the Meursault premiers but from around 40 metres higher. Of Bouchard’s 12 hectares of village wine, 8 comes from here. High-toned, a mix of estery and floral notes. Sweet with some fat and density, but there’s some mouthwatering on the finish to provide balance. This almost good for a 2003.
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Fremiets Clos de la Rougeotte
On the nose there’s a little less ‘punch’ than the ’03 Enfant’. It’s higher toned and mixes red and black notes, slowly giving up a concentrating cherry edge. Super softness, creamy and concentrated fruit with a complexity that is not today apparent from the ‘Enfant’. A slight dry edge to the tannins on the finish. Lovely.
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Charmes
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus
The same label has been used since 1791. Always ripens earlier than most other Beaune vines due to the vineyard being a little like an amphitheatre. A nicely forward nose of smooth red fruit, a little powdery and an extra black depth – there’s more than a hint of spice too. Mouthfilling, complex but a friendly package with a creamy edge. Long and very fine – I’ve bought some.