Bouchard Père et Fils

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

This is the one wine that really stamps it’s own personality on the aromatics. Usually higher-toned floral notes tend to sit in a layer above the rest of the aromatics, here it is more like they are encapsulated by the rest of the aromas – really fine and super elegant. Concentrated certainly, but the fruit does a super job of covering the wealth of tannins. This quite mineral wine expands wonderfully well into a finish that really delivers. It’s an understated delivery compared to some wines from Chambertin/Bèze in 2005, but it’s really a first class wine.

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2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour, no evolution of the colour yet. The nose started powdery and a little mildewy, it took over an hour in the glass to clean up and show high toned red fruits at the top and just a little blacker material below. Sweet, quite well textured and with lovely mid-palate intensity. The tannins are less grainy than many 2002’s and still reasonably well-covered. There’s plenty of good acidity to ride you through into an equally good finish – though there’s just a little finishing bitterness – this will resolve over the next 2 years. Still a relative bargain for the quality, I expect this wine will have a good long life.

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Fine, focused, linear fruit and some minerality on the nose. This was harvested quite late as the Bouchard vines sit high on the hill. Wow – the mid-palate concentration is exceptional here. The length is understated in flavour – quite mineral – but lingers fantasticly.

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2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. From cellar temp (15°C) the nose shows several layers; high-toned jellied black fruit at the top, earthier, leathery notes in the middle and lower-down. Leave the glass for a while and it fills with cream and a faint smoke edge – mmm. The palate is quite a departure from the norm in 2004 – lots of faintly grained tannin – but there’s quite enough intensity of black-shaded fruit to match. The acidity takes a little-bit of backseat to the fruit and tannin, just slowly making your mouth water. I might wish for a little more expansion in the mid-palate, but the finish is long with hints of mocha and a bitter young-oak edge. Not the easiest of wines to drink, but no green notes here. This very young wine needs at least three 3 years before revisiting – but it will be worth it – it has the potential to be excellent.

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Was reduced on opening but cleared up quite quickly, that said this has a totally different nose to the other wines with really dense fruit but it’s glossy and focused so in no way ponderous – continues to widen in the glass – very impressive. It’s rich with a mineral edge, but like the Charlemagne the concentration bursts across the palate then the acidity ploughs into the finish – grows well in the glass. Rich with a mineral edge and like the Charlemagne the concentration bursts across the palate before the acidity ploughs you into the finish. Very lovely – stylisticly I prefer the Charlemagne but this has a real wow factor despite Christophe saying it’s closed up a little since bottling!

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

With almost 4 hectares of vines, Bouchard P&F own close to one quarter of this vineyard. Bottled at the beginning of February (only 3 weeks before this note), this wine initially shows an understated and nicely floral aspect, slowly it builds on flashes of dark fruit and eventually some caramel barrel notes. Sweeter fruit than the previous wines, again with some grain to the tannin, but the purity of the fruit presentation is excellent as it expands over the mid-palate. I will check a few prices as this could be quite a buy.

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

For such a massive production – over 100,000 bottles from 21 hectares of 17 different 1er crus – this wine delivers impressively high quality in almost every vintage, 2005 is no exception. This has a lovely full nose with a creamy depth to the fruit and eventually that faintly vanilla/caramel barrel note that most of these reds are wearing. Concentrated, but vs the previous wines this is more supple and has much finer tannin. Really exemplary balance coupled with good length. I think this is a wine to buy by the case in this vintage.

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Again with 4 hectares of vines, Bouchard P&F own close to one third of Caillerets. The nose starts in a very understated way; floral, but needs quite some coaxing to show a little more depth and again faint barrel notes. A silky texture covers fruit of understated power – aided by fine acidity the complex flavours just roll over and over your tongue. This is really lovely.

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2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Clos des Chênes

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

From 0.85 hectares of owned vines. A much more mineral nose than the Caillerets though underpinned with some supple, high-quality black-skinned cherry notes. Ripe, sweet fruit on the palate but balanced by excellent acidity. There’s more tannin here than the Caillerets – velvet rather than silk. Long lasting in the finish – yet another very fine wine.

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