(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the previous Meursault 1er, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine.
Bonneau du Martray
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow. A high-toned, slightly alcoholic nose that slowly turns from green to yellow-skinned fruit. The palate already shows fine, soft texture and an impressive length. Sweet from the ripe fruit with super balancing acidity. This is a very round and tasty wine that shows a modest burst of fireworks on the mid-palate. Already the oak is mainly consumed – very good Corton-Charlemagne. I’d drink this over the next 18 months and then leave the rest for 8+ years.
1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A young, pale colour. A wine whose aromatics major on fruit. Seems fat, but needs just a little more time as there’s still a little oak marking the palate. Gives the impression of lower acidity, but perhaps that’s due to the extra fat. Probably starting to sing as you read this – or leave until 2015+