Why Big Red Diary?

murat 2010 bourgogne hautes côtes de nuits les herbues

2010 Herve Murat, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Herbues
Deep, perfumed nose, probably a few stems here – but very modestly so. In the mouth this is wide and filled with high-toned red fruit – probably a little CO2 to lose given the edge to the texture. There is just a faint astringency to the tannin but it drags across your tongue rather than offering a grain. The fruit in the finish is an unusually direct morello-style cherry edged with a little herb. Very interesting and a wine that I’d definitely buy again. Day two and it has become withdrawn and a little sullen – most of its interest has diminished. Drink-up on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes

my 1st christmas card – from la brunelle

Sent by a friend visiting the owners of La Brunelle on Monday – lucky them!

david clark’s last passetoutegrains

Of-course David sold his PTG so this is the last vintage – seems a good match for rösti and sausage I think!

2010 David Clark, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
A little reduction hangs around for no more than 2-3 minutes – good! Round, with reasonable depth, the aromas give little of their mixed parentage away, though eventually I try to convince myself that the red fruit might have some gamay about it but you’d only spot it with 20:20 hindsight! The high-toned fruit in the mid-palate seems pure pinot to me – and lovely it is too. The tannin and acidity form good supporting roles; just a hint of bitter chocolate effect in the finish – most-likely barrel-derived – but the succulent flavours over-ride it. Lovely wine, brilliant PTG.
Rebuy – Yes

They say it’s not worth keeping PTG – and given how good this tastes today – why would you?

tim’s take on 2011…

I might disagree about his ranking i.e. better vs 2001, 2002, 2006 (though is he talking about red or white?), but I think there are good infos here.
Clearly he’s not sensitive to pyrazine though…

bouchard père & fils 2009 beaune du château

Earlier this year, I was so happy to see that BP&F’s 2010s had been shorn of their coats of toasty oak – instead I could taste and smell the wines. It seems from this wine, it may have been an abrupt change – this 2009 is everything that I found disappointing about those 2005-2008 wines…

2009 Bouchard Père, Beaune 1er Beaune du Château
DIAM 5. Wow – this has a real slug of overt toastiness on the nose – even after one hour it is the boss of the show – only the last drops in the glass begin to offer a cleaner red fruit note. In the mouth this has great acidity, well-controlled tannin and an extra (besides oak) width of flavour in the mid-palate – but oops, that’s oak creaminess too. This has an effervescent balance for a 2009 and plenty of sweetness to the flavour – but I think I need to turn to something else tonight if I want to see something from the Côte d’Or. This wine has a great record age 3 with me – maybe the other half of this will have magically transformed when I return tomorrow…
Rebuy – Maybe

Are you genetically engineered?


offer of the day – Leflaive 2011…

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2011 – Puligny-Montrachet (En Primeur)

Bourgogne 2011 75cl 34.00 Swiss Francs
Puligny-Montrachet 2011 75cl 59.00

Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 2011 75cl 79.50
Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Âne 2011 75cl 89.50
Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2011 75cl 129.00
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2011 75cl 138.00
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2011 75cl 158.00
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2011 150cl 321.00

Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 2011 75cl 259.00
Batard Montrachet 2011 75cl 279.00
Chevalier-Montrachet 2011 75cl 348.00

Other than a couple of Francs more for the Combettes and the Pucelles, the prices are the same as were offered for the 2010s, and (Grand Crus excepted which took a jump in 2010) virtually the same as 2009…

benjamin leroux 2010 auxey-duresses

2010 Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresses
Drank over two nights, this wine was lovely – a bit plumper if allowed to get too warm, but I only allowed that once! Medium-pale yellow. The nose has some depth of ripe lemon and even a few spice accents that might have me thinking of Meursault. Smooth and concentrated. The acidity wells up from the core of the wine and almost, but not quite, takes over. Fresh it is, but not mouth-puckeringly so. Good depth of ripe fruit in the mid-palate that has a sherbet edge to it the first hour it’s open. The texture gets smoother and smoother too, so there’s probably a bit of CO2 sitting below the surface. Tasty, good value wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2010 morey-coffinet chassagne-montrachet

2010 Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet
This has the aroma of a patisserie shop bursting out of the glass, musky creme anglaise and some depth – I can’t really pick anything fruit-related. Textured, cushioned and with perfectly understated acidity but very efficient acidity. The flavours are also largely of creme patissiere – only at the end of the mid-palate did I think I’d spotted some deep fruit extract – but it was fleeting as the creme is the main note in the finish too. With aeration I can almost convince myself there is some minerality in the finish – almost. I quite like a bit of this in my 1er crus where the extra concentration of fruit/minerality acts as a foil – that level of buffer isn’t found here, so it’s certainly a fun wine, but was a bit wearing.
Rebuy – Maybe

what a difference a day makes…


a beautiful day (montrachet, lameloise and three crosses…)

Montagne des Trois Croix

The sky was blue this morning – it was going to be a good day: breakfast at Le Montrachet with ‘la friend’ then a long walk in the hills above the vines of Santenay.

We rolled up at Le Montrachet about 9:30am and – oops! – closed until 11th January – shock!

It was already getting late, where should we go? La friend had a cracking idea: ‘What about Lameloise?’ Why not I thought! Then came the quote that I will remember for a while: ‘I can’t find Lameloise in my phonebook!’ Like you call Lameloise every day…!

Eventually the google found the number (not easy in Puligny as reception is rubbish) and the call was placed: ‘We’d love to offer you hot drinks, but we can’t offer you any food’! (my exclamation!) So we went to a café in Meursault – also no breakfast possible, but they kindly suggested we could buy croissants and cakes and eat them in the café. A result!

About 11am we went our separate ways and it was time to put on the walking-boots. Long-suffering Elsa would now be able to look sad while walking, instead of sad while just sitting. From Santenay Le Haut we walked up the hill that’s topped by a limestone ridge, though actually it isn’t – when you get to that height you’ll see there’s even further to go – to the ‘three crosses!’ About a quarter of the way up is a tiny hamlet with a fine church – Saint Jean – its roads are being refurbished, but there are a few pretty houses in this secluded place, though only one of them is occupied, a nice man I met walking his dog – he said the rest are all second homes! We headed higher and the views were simply brilliant, patches of vines all the way up past 400m but plenty ‘en friche’ scrub too. Then, just when you expect (maybe) trees to take over, it is just grassland with small bushes, and eventually grazing Charolais too – some big ones.

You top out at 521 metres with the three crosses and a 360° panorama – everything was still frozen up there. The walk down was just as good, and as we got to the bottom, Elsa was finally smiling – it was food time!

It was a beautiful day…


A new Burgundy Report!
The Nuits Report

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