Why Big Red Diary?

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

It’s been a while since I opened a 2006, and given that I thought Nuits/Vosne to be the very epicentre of 2006 quality – where better to start(?)

2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers
Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and dark-shaded with almost black cherry notes to the fore – let the glass drain and there are beguiling red fruit notes too. Despite being at an ‘awkward’ age, there is still some padding to the texture, and the high-toned dark fruit has a real underpinning of tannin and acidity – currently they have a fine balance, despite the tannin’s texture being just-about the wrong side of velvet – but it’s a lovely package, really lovely. Surprisingly open and giving right now; more masculine than feminine but with character and flavour – in spades. Just a very lovely bottle. I may have to revisit the price, perhaps it is worth adding a few more to the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes (note, there’s a difference between a ‘passive’ and an ‘active ‘rebuy’…)

louis chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous
Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain!
Rebuy – Yes

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’!

1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray
The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want to go back again, and again…
Rebuy – No Chance

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon.
Rebuy – Yes

in defence of auction houses (?)

The thoughts of Maureen Downey.

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute…

2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed and ‘traditional’. Hmm – only 5 more to go…
Rebuy – Yes

louis jadot 1998 beaune les grèves

1999 not so good? Hmm, Bill – why don’t you try the 1998 and let us know what you think?

Well that’s a good idea – thanks – I will!

1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Corked to bits! Bugger!
Rebuy – No

el bulli wine auction

Probably the closest I could now come to El Bulli.
A lot of decent prices for Burgundy (in a three star context), it might be an interesting auction to follow. It seems they liked Le Moine!

jadot 1999 beaune 1er les grèves

Okay, after yesterday’s disappointment, at least I can still smell and taste today – so why not another 99 Beaune? This is a négoce wine, and versus the usual quality of Jadot’s domaine offerings, it’s a bit of a disappointment too!

1999 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
The colour shows more age than yesterday’s Germain, it’s not as dark either. Likewise, the nose already has some development – mature leaf mixes with rather unripe and slightly ungainly green notes – but it’s not pyrazine – there’s a deep, slightly baked base of fruit but initially the herbs are dominant. In the mouth there’s a sweet core of fruit but as the wine expands – and expand it does – the leading edge of the acidity is harsh and leaves an aftertaste of sweet fruit buffered by slightly unripe tannin, Actually, another ten years and this unripe element will fade a little, but the baseline is, drinkable as it is, and as good a vintage as this is, that this is far from a Grèves to put on your shopping list…
Rebuy – No

‘no american complained…’

Pinot Exceptionalism? From the wine economist…

Also (on a completely different tack), Part 1: The idiot’s guide to idiot’s guides

château de chorey 1999 beaune 1er les cras

Maybe the last bottle for a few days – an itchy throat and cough not yet marring the taste buds but it seems imminent!

1999 Château de Chorey (Germain), Beaune 1er Les Cras VV
I so wanted to say nice things about this wine, but in the end it disappoints – today at-least. The medium-plus glossy colour invites you: The nose starts spicy and a bit oaky. In the mouth this is lithe, muscled but supported still by barrel staves – it’s so clear in the texture. I wait for aeration – surely that will bring some balance(?) The nose with air develops a reasonably strong pyrazine note (3/10) to add to the dark red fruit and (probably oak) spice. This is clearly a concentrated wine, and one with a lovely acidity, but there is an astringency both to the tannin (oak tannin?) and the overall structure – a little bitterness in the finish too, and it’s far from moreish. I know it’s still something of a baby, but even with a pristine bottle, such as this, I’m not particularly unhappy that there are no more in the cellar, but I’m sad for Benoit too….
Rebuy – No

ten years apart – a brace of corton…

2003 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières
Much deeper colour than the 1993, clearly much younger too – here’s a 2003 that’s holding up very well. The nose is deep and round – roast fruit too but that comes with the vintage territory – hints of herbs at its circumference. Weight, but there’s really a good acidic balance. I recently tried the ‘96 of this but this is wine has much better weight and for the vintage is clearly much more successful. I like this very much. Nice to have a few more in the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes

1993 André Nudant, Corton Bressandes
The colour shows some age but retains just a kernel of red. The nose is deep and leafy with a warm sweetness – mature and rather good. Lively balance comes from the acidity, good intensity too. There’s a hint of bitterness from faint tannin in the finish, but I’m rather enjoying this. Clean, relatively mature – lots to like.
Rebuy – Yes

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