Why Big Red Diary?

bruno and biothythms…


Maybe it’s my biorhythms – I don’t know, but this is the third bottle out of the last four I’ve opened that is irredeemably corked – triple-ouch!!!

1992 lafon monthélie 1er duresses


I’ve been lucky enough to both drink and taste a reasonable amount of Comte Lafon’s wines, but I’m ashamed to say that I’d none in my cellar before I bought this. There’s plenty of white Lafon for sale at auction – no surprise in these times of p.ox – but the reds are much rarer, so it is with some irony that the first of this immaculate looking 6-pack turned out to be lightly corked – grrr, that’s two in a row – but what about the second?

1992 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – interestingly there’s a little 2004-style pyrazine here too – of ~2/10 green meanie intensity – a level that adds interest, rather than turns the stomach. It starts with a narrow flavour profile, but it’s balanced, indeed fresh – a little time in the glass allows the shape of wine to fill out some. The fruit has just enough ripeness and a very faint astringency (still). I might be tempted to say that I’m drinking this a little young, but I’m finding much of interest here. At a good price I certainly might buy again.
Rebuy – Maybe

For interest, just like young oak can mask parts per trillion of pyrazines, it seems so can parts per billion of TCA – it was possible, but very much harder to discern the pyrazine component in the corked bottle, whereas (at my level of sensitivity) it was rather easy for this wine. Blind I would have 100% guessed it was a 2004, indeed, this actually has better colour than many 2004s!

fourrier 2003 gevrey combe aux moines


I really don’t buy Fourrier any more, it’s become just a little too expensive, but 1999-2005 it was on my annual purchase list. With sausage and rosti coming up, it seemed that this 2003 would have been just the job, but (my first for quite some time) it is completely and utterly corked.

To quote Patrice Rion: “imagine all that work, spoiled…”

thomas-bassot 1969 chambolle-musigny


Drunk at the weekend (the bottle not me!), and like the Remy of yesterday, this was also the second, and last, of two – this time ‘almost’ as good as the first.

1969 Thomas-Bassot, Chambolle-Musigny
The nose needed just a few minutes to deliver its perfume of cushioned dark red fruit – perhaps not as ethereal as the first bottle, but lovely none-the-less. Once more a very clean and tasty wine delivering volume, dimension and still a little tannin. Very nice length, that’s still dominated by the fruit. What a lovely, elegant yet still robust wine.
Rebuy – Yes

louis remy 1985 clos de la roche


My second, and last, bottle of this – a similar performance I think.

1985 Louis Remy, Clos de la Roche
Ten minutes are needed for the nose to open, but when it does…
Stunning, sweet-inflected red blood, faint smoke and precise layers of fruit – glorious stuff. The palate is very fine, showing ripe fruit and nice acidity – just a little minerality too. I still expect more oomph from a Grand Cru – the intensity and concentration is more that of a villages – churlish to complain (perhaps) as this is both complex and compelling. Just beautiful wine. This time around, none was left to oxidise overnight!
Rebuy – Yes

ice and frost

Some burned leaves in the Côte d’Or today – Santenay mainly – frost and ice on very young leaves from the buds that have already burst – I hope it’s rather limited.

In theory we were 2-3 days ahead of (even) last year, which predicted another harvest start in August, but this may have made live much more difficult / more heterogenous.

99 thomas-moillard romanée saint vivant


1999 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée Saint-Vivant
The colour’s quite dark. Aromatically this is rather monolithic for quite some hours – only on day two do you have more of a Vosne impression, but there is still a solid core of dark, almost roast, licorice-laced fruit. There’s good acidity and balance – just a little lithe in shape and it’s also sneakily, mouth-wateringly long. Whilst it’s not very tannic, there’s the clear impression that everything that could have been extracted, was extracted. Drinkable but despite that, a mile away from drinking ‘nicely’. Wait at least 10 years…
Rebuy – Maybe

vines for m&m…

Ah, finally some real work for the team at M&M – hope they have trained their backs for all that bending! :-)

tough weekend at home…

Well, what else are you supposed to do when it rains? Maybe a note or two over the next days! In the meantime to give your mouse something to do, try Lettie Teague‘s view of 2010 blanc.

gilles bouton 2010 st.aubin les champlots

Just for a change, a red St.Aubin.

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Les Champlots
Medium cherry red. Some clean, high-toned and glossy red cherry fruit but overall a bit tight. Fresh, with acid-borne intensity. This wine has both energy and a lovely crunchy fruit. Lovely as it is, and as well priced as it is, I’d be getting my enjoyment this year before whatever padding the fruit may currently be providing fades…
Rebuy – Yes, but be quick!

ws – the magazine…

Sounds like a film: Winesearcher – The Magazine
Looks a lot of work too, oh, and nobody mention ‘the troublemaker Harmonia axyridis

gilles bouton 2010 st.aubin en remilly

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Pale colour. Wide, slightly waxy impression, some faint herbs and with a little yellow fruit too. Fresh, nicely intense with just a hint of mouth-puckering acidity – but not overly so. The flavour of greeen-skinned fruits comes through in mouth-watering fashion. Racy and fun – lovely stuff.
Rebuy – Yes

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