Why Big Red Diary?

alex gambal’s 2006 bourgogne blanc

I think this may be my last bottle of this, and I couldn’t buy any replacement when I visited Alex last week, as his 2010 and even 2011 are now sold out. That’ll teach me (not) to visit in May instead of January!

2006 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
Just like the Chenu 2006 Savigny from yesterday, this is bright and as fresh as a daisy. Medium lemon yellow colour and with a musky deep chardonnay nose that has just a hint of green-skinned fruit about it – very inviting. There’s a little richness to this rounded package, but direct from the fridge it has vivacity and a more refreshing flavour than any bourgogne has right to offer. There is a high-toned citrus fruit in the mid-palate that’s rather lovely. 12 bottles, 12 successes – of-course I would rebuy it, but where would I find some?
Rebuy – Yes

never too much…

Jasper’s still making it thicker – in an electrical sense…!


chenu 2006 savigny blanc…


Another cellar ‘find’. Indeed there are other 06 Chenus to be drunk over the next weeks!

2006 Louis Chenu et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Blanc)
Medium lemon yellow colour. The characteristic high-toned aromas of Savigny have been augmented with fruit of a rather deeper and riper register here. Likewise across the palate, this offers a little texture and richness plus a ripe, not too sweet fruit that has good mid-palate intensity. From the fridge this is bold and fun, with nice acidity, let it warm in the glass and it becomes a little heavier and perhaps a little over-rich. You have been warned – small pours or drink quickly – in either case you will enjoy!
Rebuy – Maybe

des croix 2010 beaune 1er pertuisots


Of all the Beaune 2010s tasted this time last year, this was the one I coveted the most – it had an almost ethereal perfume of violets – it was a wine I decided I could just sniff, no drinking would be necessary.
And now…?

2010 des Croix, Beaune 1er Pertuisots
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with what seems a whiff of oak – but 30 seconds and it’s gone. The purest of pure flowers has become more of a smear, a less focused perfume and perhaps a hint of stems too – though there were none used! – it’s very nice but it’s moved-on from the wine of my dreams. Round, with understated concentration and a faint rasp of tannin. For clarity of flavour you have to wait for the mid-palate and onwards into the finish – here it is very lovely. I bought a few for the cellar, I still think I’ll be rewarded!
Rebuy – Yes

comte georges de vogüé 2000 chambolle 1er…


The advantage of returning home from the Côtes with too much (okay – just ‘a lot of’) wine, is that you need to tidy up in the cellar a little, which also means that you will probably ‘find’ something. Actually I found a few things, including this. My experience of other de Vogüés bought (at the time) from this retailer was poor – too many heat impaired bottles – this is probably in the same mould – but let’s see.

2000 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium-plus colour – still with a youthful colour. On first opening there’s a very pretty floral note, but it’s quickly replaced with something spicy and herbal – not unnatractive, but it’s no siren either. After roughly 90 minutes the nose becomes altogether more interesting again, showing faint flowers and a lovely cushioned fruit impression. Quite full in the mouth, still with a platform of mildly grained tannin that supports dark, faintly roast fruit. The acidity slowly comes from behind the veil, yet remains resolute in its understatement. The texture is rather smooth but the border between the mid-palate and finish has a little sharp, acid-led, heat. Certainly this remains a concentrated, drinkable and rather young bottle – just don’t look at the cost of replacement!
Rebuy – Maybe

back from the soggy côtes…

Not a barrel of laughs if you want to take your dog for a walk or enjoy the vineyards – plenty of gallows humour from the vignerons too with regard to various scenarios for the 2013 vintage. But everyone carries on!

It seems I brought a bit too much wine back with me, the advantage of that is, whilst re-arranging the cellar, you come across many part-forgotten things! How could I forget 7-8 bottles of mixed 2006s from the ladies of Chenu? Looks like that will be getting some action soon 😉

Here’s a bunch of pics from my phone – I haven’t looked at my ‘proper’ camera yet!

françois mikulski 2010 meursault caillerets – rouge!


2010 François Mikulski, Meursault 1er Caillerets
Rather deeply coloured. You need to wait a while, the first aromas in the glass are reduction and oaky vanilla. Time is a healer, and you end up with black cherry and ginger cake – not a bad combination! Round, a little soft and unfocused (I blame the oak for now) but the intensity is very good, as is the balance. Dry, ripe tannic grain underpins a wine that is tasty but rather blurred at the edges. A wine to wait for, but it was quite enjoyable too! Next day, the last glass was more how I would have wished – more incisive – good!
Rebuy – Yes

henri rebourseau 1986 mazis-chambertin


From a case of halves bought at auction about 4 years ago. It’s a couple of years since I had one, so…

1986 Henri Rebourseau, Mazis-Chambertin
The nose on this is rather understated, it takes over 30 minutes to start offering up some decaying leaves – better than it sounds – just! Cushioned, round, smoothly textured – there remains some fat here. Plenty of sweetness sufficiently offsets acidity which approaches sharp, without quite getting there. There’s a little earthiness in the mid-palate flavour, but the finish is all about sweet, baked fruit. All the bottles of this have been different (no surprise for a wine over 25 years old, in halves) but this is one of the better ones. I’d go as far as to say this is really quite nice!
Rebuy – Maybe

antonin guyon chambolle 2005 clos du village


Hmm, it seems that time passed too fast for typing…

Since that rather lovely 1997 Rion NSG, I opened another ’97 – Bouchard Père’s Le Corton – aromatically as interesting as the Rion, and though it was more concentrated than the Nuits, it was far less generous. Tasty enough, though some way from maturing. Then yesterday was a 2009 Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Blanc) from Edmond Monnot: Full, reasonably rich but with enough acidity to balance – brilliant value but still only ‘maybe’ rebuy. And today? Well it’s a while since I looked at one of these…

2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village
This starts gorgeously wide and even with a bit of more northerly spice, and perhaps there’s a hint of reduction/oak too – but it lasts only 15 minutes – so probably reduction. Eventually this narrows and shows a more herbal red fruit – still, it’s quite nice. Big, round, with plenty of acid/tannin (soft) structure – this is has a beautiful intensity of flavour. In the context of the vintage, and perhaps the best village of the vintage, this is quite good – in the context of an average vintage, this is fabulous. Plenty of structure didn’t slow down it’s disappearance!
Rebuy – Yes

security guards?

Domaine Ponsot is the first high-profile producer to adopt eProvenance’s
second-generation technology, which provides a detailed history of the life of
a case of wine.
The sensor monitors the temperature and humidity of fine wines as they
travel from the wine producer to the customer, and the information can be
read on smartphones and tablets.

Well, given the price of some producers’ wines, they can afford a physical presence too!

daniel rion 1997 nuits 1er vignes rondes


I’ve followed this wine for over 10 years now, and I must say, unequivocally, this is its finest showing. If you have some, try one now. Wait, no, try two!

1997 Daniel Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vignes Rondes
Still, comfortably a medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep, with a little top-end spice and fresh clean leaves below – there’s a hint of Vosne about this now. Mouth-filling, but smoother than any 1997 has a right to be. Sure the acidity could be a little more precise, but it is quite sufficiently supportive. The tannin is still where it should be, rippling but not dragging. The wine ending on an upward, mouth-watering note – depsite whatever I said about the acidity! This is absolutely delicious. I’m not sure if it has ever been or ever will be better…!
Rebuy – Yes

jc boisset 2006 morey st.denis monts luisants

jc-boisset-2006-morey-saint-denis-monts luisants

2006 JC Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants
Not much more than medium colour, but it’s still a relatively young colour. Wide, flighty aromatics with a hint of spice, herb and dark-shaded red fruit – I keep coming back for another sniff – lovely. Less full than last time I opened one of these; it’s becoming a little more muscular and sinewy, very little fat, yet the sweetness of fruit remains an adequate foil to the fine acidity. Lovely growth of flavour in the mid-palate and it clings on really well in the finish – which shows a little raspberry fruit. The texture has a faint hint of astringent ‘drag’ – but faint. I’m enjoying this a lot, and think it may be hard work to save my last two or three bottles. Hard work indeed…
Rebuy – Yes

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