robert arnoux 1983 nuits st.georges

By billn on October 30, 2011 #degustation

robert-arnoux-1983-nuits

1983 is regarded as a tannic vintage – perhaps like 1998? – whatever, let’s double-up and try a Nuits. After this performance, I see a second 83 on the horizon…

1983 Robert Arnoux, Nuits St.Georges
Medium colour, quite some browning. The nose is clean to start and all about soil, soil and more soil – with time we have a deep sweetness and a subtle undertow of musk. A little tannin bubbles below the surface and the flavour grows and grows in the mid-palate – really good intensity and plenty of sweetness too. I think this has a really good mid-palate complexity and with just a hint of creaminess too. Slowly lingering on beautifully judged acidity – medium-plus length – tons of enjoyment here; this is the archetypal melting old burgundy with tons of sediment at the end – completely yum!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Leflaive 2010…

By billn on October 28, 2011 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2010 – Puligny-Montrachet (En Primeur)

BOURGOGNE 2010 75cl 34.00 (2009 – 35.00) Swiss Francs
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2010 75cl 59.00 (59.50)

PREMIERS CRUS
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Clavoillons 2010 75cl 79.50 (84.00)
MEURSAULT Sous le Dos d’Âne 2010 75cl 89.50 (89.50)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Folatières 2010 75cl 129.00 (118.00)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 2010 75cl 129.00 (118.00)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 2010 75cl 155.00 (148.00)

GRANDS CRUS
BIENVENUES BATARD MONTRACHET 2010 75cl 259.00 (228.00)
BATARD MONTRACHET 2010 75cl 279.00 (248.00)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 2010 75cl 345.00 (315.00)

The 2009 prices are in brackets after the 2010 price. Despite a Swiss franc that’s currently 9% stronger versus the Euro than it was this time last year, there are ‘real’ 10% increases at 1er and GC level – let’s call that a net 20% increase shall we(?)

The prices are edging nearer to their Swiss franc (2007 vintage) peaks – of course, the Swiss franc was 25% weaker when those prices were announced so effectively these are new ex domaine peak prices.

I expect Leflaive will point to lower yields, and the 2010s should really be very good, but I’m sorry to say this, but I see zero value here…

sylvain pataille 2009 marsannay longeroies

By billn on October 26, 2011 #degustation

This brightened up an interminable night of TV – David Attenborough’s new series being a tad too late for me – all I am left to view is cooking, dancing and the buying and re-selling of old tat; which could be the basic template for every night’s TV these days…

2009 Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay Les Longeroies
Medium-plus colour. The nose has an intensity that majors on a fine and clear raspberry note. In the mouth this reminds me of a 2008 with a sweet-and-sour approach; fine sweet fruit with a powerful acidity that offers impressive balance. There is a nod to the vintage with a modest mid-palate padding that also shows a hint of cream to the flavour. Like the 09 Ladoix 1er of Ravaut, this has nothing of the facile nature of many 09s – very impressive wine, and one that is worth a special search. It may ‘only’ be a villages wine, but it will amply reward 15 years in the cellar, yet, I have the impression it will never be other than generous despite its coiled intensity. Certainly worthy of a 1er cru label. Yum.
Rebuy – Yes

g&p ravault 2009 ladoix 1er le bois roussot

By billn on October 25, 2011 #degustation#other sites

2009 Gaston & Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is an interesting thing – this reminds me of a 2005, I think that’s my first time ever with a 2009! Concentrated fruit – essence of raspberry – some high-toned, slightly alcoholic notes and dried herbs. Cool and concentrated with plenty of acidity, though far from too much. The flavour lingers on a (very) dark red fruit note. Relatively narrow in the mid-palate but with decent intensity, only a medium-plus (or so) length, but overall this is a quality wine – and did I mention the price…(?)
Rebuy – Yes

And it’s been a little while, so ‘un-petit-peut-de‘ 2009 mini-hype for you.
[archive]

pruning time…

By billn on October 24, 2011 #random

No not in the Côtes, at home!

Beautiful weather enabled a ‘useful’ weekend. Four trees completely pruned for winter, avoiding the garden sinking under the volume of falling leaves. In three weeks time there’s even a man going to come and ‘chip’ all the branches – I suppose that means I’ve time to ‘do’ another tree!

No notes from weekend wines, but with friends we got through another 78 Pucelles and 84 Charmes, plus an 08 Pillot Chassagne Clos St.Jean, a 66 Bourée Pommard and a 98 Clare Valley Shiraz. All drank very well. Now back to work!

1974 joseph drouhin chambolle les amoureuses

By billn on October 20, 2011 #degustation

1974 Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
Clean, bright medium coloured, clear at the rim. The nose has depth, initially with a hint of must – I’ll come back to it. In the mouth this is clean, indeed has cleansing acidity but without being tart. It seems linear and a little dilute – only in the mid-palate does it begin to unfold and deliver waves of decently intense flavour. By now the nose has tidied up and there’s a hint of pyrazine, but it’s more coal than coal-tar and adds an interesting dimension, another hour on and it smells fabulous with perfect red berries over a faintly musky base. So, this is silky and subtle, but with clean and long-lasting flavours and just the right amount of ‘sweet’. It is a very elegant lady who has retained quite some of her good looks – I really enjoyed spending the evening with her!
Rebuy – No Chance!

pavillon 2009 volnay 1er les santenots

By billn on October 19, 2011 #degustation#other sites

pavillon-2009-volnay-santenots

2009 Domaine du Pavillon, Volnay 1er Les Santenots
Medium-plus colour. Deep, dark fruit with floral top notes and a hint of mineral – limited width but great top to bottom dimension. Full, rounded and quite sensuous; not too sweet and there is good buffering acidity. Dark fruit tones and a velvet tannin that you have to search for. Long lasting on a mineral note. More challenging than the Bouchard ‘baby Jesus’ today and a better wine for it – the future can look after itself. Super wine and something of a bargain.
Rebuy – Yes

And two fun things:

Is Keith having a joke at the expense of Alice ? 😉

Plus cartoon of the week!

Wine, Millefeuille Press, (2011)

By billn on October 18, 2011 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

tong-wine-bookSubtitled: The basics of wine.

When this book arrived, I have to say that I was surprised; from the picture you have the impression that this book is constructed very much along the lines of the recent book by Jasper Morris, only after it is delivered you realise that it is actually half the size – A5.

The presentation if this book is actually first-class: The format is of a heading and a descriptive text and a nice photo. No subject gets more than two pages of text, usually just one, and as you will see below, the text pages are really half-pages. The text has been supplied by Romana Echensperger, Fiona Morrison and Filip Verheyden, a mix of MW and MW candidates; an insert to the book suggests that:

”It is meant for both the beginner who just bought his first bottle of wine [do women not buy wine…?] and the connoisseur looking for in-depth information”

You might say ‘how can it offer ‘in-depth’ information with only half a page of text per headline? A fair question, but I would say it is reasonably successful for two reasons:
First, because there are so many sections, and…
Second, because the narrative often sounds like a run-away train, presumably so that it fits into the space allowed.
One comment worth making is that there’s no glossary – the book is itself, an out-size glossary, so some of the language (polymerisation, colloids, mouth-feel) might remain a mystery to the man (or woman!) who just bought their first bottle.

wine-book-by-tong The 120 stanzas are grouped into four sections;

  • How to drink wine
  • Wine and food
  • The vineyard
  • How wine is made

Particularly the middle two sections are excellent and are highly recommended. I have but one bee in my bonnet; there is a constant error across the pages and one that MWs and MW candidates should not be making – at least, assuming they passed any of their chemistry modules – potassium, sulfur, nitrogen etcetera, are not compounds and neither are they minerals as is asserted several times in the text, they are elements – pure and undiluted. This is a bad mistake and is no different to describing a cherry as a fruit-cake; a cherry is a part (an element) of a fruit cake, but it is not a fruit-cake!

This book is delivered by the publisher of the wine magazine Tong, a magazine whose outlook and style I like very much, so I guess it should come as little surprise that I like this book too. Overall, this is perfectly proportioned for what it is; it delivers punchy, though sometimes frenetic, text; each subject is perfectly delineated and well presented. Given the format, and despite its 270 pages, you can easily read the whole book in 2-3 hours, but it is also a mini-coffee-table book that you can dip into. I would say this is a winner and just in time for the Christmas buying rush 😉 Bravo!

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