saturday – such a perfect day in the vines…

By billn on June 15, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

Traveling with a family – on a Burgundy Report wine tour. We were so lucky with the weather…

the ‘not just’ la romanée tasting last friday…

By billn on June 15, 2015 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2015

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Something of an honour; 72 wines from the domaine of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, commemorating 200 years since the family established their presence in Burgundy. There was also a brilliant music concert in the evening (including a 302 year-old Stradivarius) followed by dinner, prepared by Pascal Barbot and his team from the 3-star restaurant in Paris, l’Astrance.

My tasting notes will be in my June report for subscribers, but a small flavour of the day can be seen in the photos below:

montrachet, clos des mouches

By billn on June 11, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

A couple of afternoon appointments afforded these views today – fully 33°C too!

last saturday’s blind burgundy extravaganza!

By billn on June 11, 2015 #degustation

I get together with a couple of friends once every 6 months or-so, and last weekend we drank (blind) a lovely selection of wines – a modest 12 bottles with good food and good company!

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The first wine was mine. The Jadot was a 2010 but already with oxidised notes – we cut it some slack, and it got better and better in the glass. Clearly still faulty (that’s 2 in a row now!) but as the ox fades, just a wonderful line of mouth-watering minerality – but certainly Rebuy – No!
The second was super; tense and intense though I didn’t find any pointers to Meursault. Really as good a 99 as you’re likely to drink! Rebuy – Yes
The Charlemagne was also mine, a 2007 and a real beauty of line and length with super-fine acidity. I loved it. Rebuy – Yes
Lastly the Vincent Dancer Chevalier! It was big, textured and clearly from a warm vintage, yet it had a really good balance and super length. I don’t remember what my guess was, but I thought it really super. Another Rebuy – Yes

My favourite of the flight: The Chandon 2007 Charlemagne!

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The Roumier was the 2008, and for some reason had been decanted – I don’t know why. Anyway, it was transparent with a beautiful line of flavour. I easily guessed that it was from 2008, but I had the wrong côte – I guessed Volnay Caillerets. A beauty! Rebuy – Yes
The second wine was not my high-point in guessing! The fruit was big, warm but round and complex – like Clos St.Denis. I thought the acidity not bad either, so I guessed CSD 2010. Ouf! Beaune 2009! What a super wine! Rebuy – Yes
Okay, I couldn’t get the third wine wrong – it was mine! This Clos Ursules was the 1993 and the nose didn’t start as good as the Roumier but got better over time – but the palate was excellent in the best ’93 tradition; muscled yet direct and transparent with super acidity, energy and clarity. Wow wine.
Rebuy – Yes

My favourite of the flight: The Jadot 1993 Ursules!

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Two wines here, purely by chance, both 90’s Echézeaux. The first I guessed to be a 98 wine of Vosne. The Gerard Mugneret Echézeaux turned out to be the 1995 and what a beautiful wine at that, complex Vosne aromatics and a tannin less overt than many from the vintage – simply a super wine. Rebuy – Yes
The Grivot was my wine. Entertaining aromatics, and plenty of weight and complexity – a much younger wine than the 95 was my impression. In isolation this would be very enjoyable, but really put into the shade by the Mugneret. Rebuy – Yes

My wine of the flight was very easily the Gerard Mugneret 1995 Echézeaux!

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Well, what an interesting collection for the last three! The first was Ghislaine Barthod’s 1998 Chambolle 1er Charmes. A good wine both aromatically and from a flavour perspective – quite big and round, though the tannins not yet fully rounded. I liked it a lot. Rebuy – Yes
The first real, and quite major disappointment was the 96 Engel GE, my wine. It’s simply not that great – since I bought them about 2000 I kept telling myself that time will heal – well, so-far not. I’d expect more from a 96 Vosne villages. Rebuy – No
Our last wine was also something of a disappointment. For my palate this was broad and round, a little cushioned and silky, but sweet, dark oak notes clouded any sense of place or vintage for me – I really had no pointer. Simply a little soupy pinot. Shame. Rebuy – No

And my wine of the flight? Well, it didn’t really have any competition did it(?) The Barthod 1998 Chambolle Charmes!

nets! – a walk in volnay…

By billn on June 10, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

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Walking around the southern side of Volnay on Wednesday, including high on the hill where the big plot of Ez Blanches has been replanted. I also spotted one of the trial patches of hail netting – 9 rows to be precise. Let’s hope that they don’t have the opportunity to be tested…

smash and grabs in chablis…

By billn on June 09, 2015 #the market

DSC05988Image: Julien Brocard, 29th January 2015.

The domaine of Jean-Marc Brocard was, last weekend, targeted by thieves, and not for the first time in recent days. In a ram-raid smash and grab (the domaine and its shop is remote from its home village of Préhy, about 7-8 minutes drive from Chablis town) about 600 bottles were stolen, and of-course only the best cuvées were stolen from their retail shop. The damage caused by the ram-raid is nearly comparable to the cost of the wine – so feel free to raise an eyebrow if you see some cheap JM Brocard in the next days; apparently the bottles are all numbered…

The weekend’s second smash and grab was much more corporate in nature: Late on Friday, Maison Albert Bichot put out a press-release before switching off the lights for the weekend. The have acquired the 33 hectare domaine of Pascal Bouchard in Chablis, or maybe it’s the maison part(?) – the press release is a little opaque in that matter. On Thursday I’ll get the infos from the horse’s mouth – but clearly that makes an interesting second brand from Bichot in Chablis and a nice big new cuverie on the otskirts of the town too…

More info when I have it!

It’s complicated, but Bichot have bought the winery where they will vinify all their purchased grapes – an equivalent volume to that produced by their Domaine Long-Depaquit – but it will only be half full to start with. The 40 hectares owned by the Bouchard family (2 domaines of 33 and 7 hectares) remain with the family but will still be vinified by Bichot for the first couple of years. As the Bouchard brothers establish new production facilities, the vines will revert back to them over a handful of years…

a great weekend selection…

By billn on June 08, 2015 #degustation

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A lucky selection – and that was just the house wines for the weekend!

2010 Buisson-Charles, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Medium, medium-pale colour. Pretty, if modest red fruit aromas. Here is a slightly sweet and completely delicious wine – very modest weight and intensity, but it does what it does, excellently!
Rebuy – Yes

2008, Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle
Medium-plus colour. A dark-fruited, faintly spiced but rather exciting nose. Lovely acidity – not a bit sharp, but fine, precise and intense. Really lovely flavour and no over barrel influence. Another simply delicious wine!
Rebuy – Yes

1993 Jayer-Gilles, Nuits St.Georegs Les Hautes Poirets
Medium-plus colour. The cork doesn’t smell nice, but the wine smells dreamy! A little dark, decayed oak stays around for only about 5 minutes, followed by deep roasted red fruit – but it changes further – the fruit aromas become ever-more precise and detailed – beautiful stuff! In the mouth there’s width, weight and pretty fruit and sweet, old, old oak underneath. Lovely freshness, complexity and vitality too. A wine to savour – really super-yum!
Rebuy – Yes

summertime…

By billn on June 06, 2015 #vintage 2015

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 Vosne-Romanée this week…

36 degrees yesterday, and and practically the whole week with 30°C-plus.

Sticky but glorious! Next week starts similarly but cools and becomes a little stormy – so they say anyway!

It’s frankly perfect for the flowering as there’s not much wind and the temperature is really driving the process – at this rate it may all be finished next week – at least in the Côte d’Or. Farmers the world-over, however, always have a little something to complain about, and Burgundy is no different; The heat rather compacts the flowering into a few fewer days and a shorter flowering will typically mean a shorter harvest – because more grapes will be ready at the same time.

Some you win, and some… 😉

One person not complaining? well that’s me. Unexpected helicopter flights plus invitations to dinners which included Leflaive, Lafon, Dujac and de Vogüé made for a great week. I would tell you that it’s something that only happens once per year, but I’d be lying – I’ve been regularly visiting the Côte d’Or since 2000, and less regularly since 1997 – and it’s only happened once in the last 15 years 😉

Burgundy Report

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