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1976 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des CorvéesAug. 2010
It was twilight and we were outside, but the colour seemed medium – maybe a little more. On the nose, just like the 1990 and 1985 this was very nice indeed; just a little more baked fruit but fresh, clean and very moreish. In the mouth I initially thought the acidity was too spiky, but 15 minutes later it and I were more in harmony – still the acidity was slightly in advance but nothing to complain about, particularly given that it is a village wine approaching it’s 35th birthday. There was sweetness and no undue tannin. Almost certainly passed its best (unlike the 1985) but it certainly isn’t falling off a cliff either.
1985 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des CorvéesJul. 2010
A beautiful, bright, medium-intensity colour. My that’s smooth! Getting ahead of myself, sorry. The nose on first pour is a little meaty, but only a few seconds are needed for that to clear and show a pretty and sweet strawberry over a slight undergrowth depth that eventually develops a jam tart (baked) fruit – it seems very clean. There is sweet depth, the (aforementioned) silky texture and there’s depth and intensity to the mid-palate that still shows more than a hint of a fine tannic spine. In a way I’m sad, but only because this wine deserves a wider audience than it’s getting tonight.
1990 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des CorvéesJul. 2010
Medium colour – and quite a remarkable colour at that – you might think it cam from a 2001 or 2002, not a 20 year wine. The fruit aromas have sweetness, concentration and a bloody depth. A texture that just about avoids fatness but delivers in its stead a velvet impression from fading tannins – were they a bit astringent in their youth? – I expect so. Very well balanced, though it is a wine whose whole personality is about up-front impact, the finish being medium at best despite the quality of what went before, and showing some nice dried cranberry/currant. Yet for a 20 year-old villages wine I revert to my earlier adjective – remarkable. Can you expect more form such a cuvée at this age? – I’ll decide after I’ve opened the ’85…
1999 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes RoisMar. 2006
Medium ruby-red colour. High-toned nose, traces of orange and fresh red berries. Fresh and intense palate with mouth watering acidity, still a little austere. Medium length. Almost good, but needs food.
2002 Tortochot, Morey St.DenisMar. 2005
Quite a deep colour. The nose starts in a very promising way, like Griotte… Chambertin that is. Given a little time it becomes more and more diffuse and soon starts to hint at taint. The palate is fresh and steely without any resemblance to Griotte. There’s good intensity to the fruit but the finish has a high-toned metallic edge and more obvious taint – it’s also very short. A shame – it started so well.
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