Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 18 April 2023.
Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61
www.boisset.fr
More reports with Maison Jean-Claude Boisset
Grégory on 2021:
“We are 80% down in the whites – it’s more like 35% for the reds – we still have plenty of cuvées though. I tried to be patient with the reds – I’m always trying to improve and in some of the previous late vintages I think I extracted a little too much and could see a certain hardness to the wines – so this year I did much less extraction, I used the same amount of whole clusters though. Everything got the same length of elevage as usual – 18 months.”
The wines…
Given all the challenges of the vintage – a super-successful result from Gregory. There are many wines here that I’d be pleased to find a place in my cellar for!
Two parcels – Brescules and Combottes blended – but plenty was lost to the frost – 100% destemmed.
A nicely cushioned and fresh red-fruit nose – lovely clarity. Mouth-filling – lovely clarity again – almost fluidity. I really like the structure but there’s not too much – modest bitters – a simply top villages!
2021 Pommard Vaumuriens
Here is some whole cluster perfume – cushioned again – simply super. More direct and cool-fruited – ooh this has a hint of something that would make me leave it a year or two – maybe 5 – in the cellar but austerity is too direct a word. Excellent villages wine.
Wow – great energetic perfume – great! More mouth-filling – super energetic – I might even wait for it to calm – certainly for the oak to calm a little – but it’s a great Côte de Beaune – the oak visible in the finish but tasty.
Next to Domaine Chevalier’s Valozières, under Prieur’s Corton Bressandes
Ooh – perfumed and much more direct aromas. Wow – width, depth to this texture and fluidity too – great wine again…
2021 Beaune 1er Grèves
‘From high – 70-80-year-old vines – a beast that I always need to tame’
Direct aroma, fresh, a little saline too. Mouth-filling, a certain fluidity again but also structure and some balancing sucrosity. Despite its size – really a fine balance – a wine you can keep as long as you like – I’d be waiting 3-5 years but it’s really excellent!
2 parcels – one near Justice and the other near Morey – les Echézeaux
A width and a cushion to this aroma – plenty of clean dark berried fruit. Super in the mouth – supple and silky – a wine of top finesse for a villages – for that, bravo!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
9 parcels for about 3k bottles – mainly higher parcels and all destemmed – ‘I tried whole-clusters in 2015 and didn’t like the result.
Quite an airy, slightly tight nose. Lovely direct, incisive style – almost the opposite of the Gevrey! But so appealing – modest finishing bitters so wait 2-5 years. But excellent wine again.
Next to Grand Vignes – Comte Liger-Belair’s Monopole
Hmm – a nice width and cushion to this nose. Structural, extra concentration but sufficiently fluid to keep perfect balance – tannins that bring velvet to the texture. Top villages!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes
Concentrated but also tighter – there’s some perfume though – almost a touch of gentian? Another texture of finesse – and lots of freshness – this is a concentrated wine yet the finish is so delicate and complex. I’d be tempted to buy some of this just to see how it goes – I have questions but I also see greatness in parts.
Lots of colour but so perfumed – that’s super again. Clean, direct open – concentrated yet fluid – that’s another great wine – what a Nuits!
The whites:
2021 Aligoté Les Moutots
Vines in Chorey – vines planted early 1950s
Direct, some perfume and faint oak too – but a direct and mineral style is the majority here. Hmm – that’s a got a width of beautifully bubbling complexity – class in a glass!
2021 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
A faintly almond blossom note here. Fuller, more generous – tasty wine of clarity but I much prefer the style of the aligoté. This, finishing with some chalky texture…
2021 Fixin
Under Clos de La Perrière
A deeper nose, almost a little golden style to the citrus but still with freshness. Hmm – a tiny reductive quality that’s very attractive – the finish is open and moreish – that’s a lovely wine!
2021 Nuits St.Georges 1er Terres Blanches
All pinot Blanc
Very floral – white flowers with some backing of creamy oak. Whilst the nose is almost over-generous the palate is far from that – direct, mineral and juicily mouth-watering. Always very aromatic – very broad finishing – and very delicious too – a wine with charisma!
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
Third vintage here for this…
A little golden style to this citrus. Open, classy and fluid in the mouth – ooh growing fuller and always very mouth-watering – almost a cascade of juicy flavour. Super…
An old-vine massale selection, 80-years-old – only 0.20 ha – JCB are the only producers of this wine says Gregory – but I’ve found another – Besancenot.
Narrower but a wine with plenty of depth – slightly mineral. Wow in the mouth – silky but with both intensity and minerality – that’s a great wine!
In this vintage, a blend of Pernand and Aloxe fruit.
Lots of extra width to this nose – yellow fruit but not obviously of citrus. Hmm – considered, mineral, complex – a minerality that resembles the pinot blanc in intensity but more open, melting and indeed fluid – a really top Charlemagne – with top length!