Tasted in Santenay with Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent, 18 April 2023.
Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent
3 Rue Sainte-Agathe
21590 Santenay
Tel: +33 3 80 20 67 37
More reports for Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent.
Jean-Marc on 2021:
“2021? Well, it’s easy to sell – but everything else was hard! The last were bottled a couple of weeks ago with the same timing as for the 2020s. The reds were more complicated – we had losses due to déperisment – vine death – the whites were obviously down too but with practically the same volume as in 2020. We work late in pruning and training – since 2019 – but it saves the harvest we think – we fought the frost for 7 days but it was the late pruning that saved us. It was still the hardest vintage of my career. We are just starting to commercialise these 21s now.”
The wines…
Much as I loved what this couple produced in 2020 – there is another level in their 2021s. Some honestly brilliant wines – their whites would put most domaines in Chassagne & Puligny to shame. On the current level of attainment, they are one of the finest producers of either côte right now. If you can find them, buy them – they are worth it!
2021 Bourgogne Rouge
Declassified grapes from other appellations – there are no Bourgogne vines here.
Round, with a little aromatic austerity but there’s interesting depth too. In the mouth, there is something round, faintly grained and with a joyful red fruit – like the nose, a little austerity and even salinity – this will be very tasty when it eases – give it a couple of years and it will be excellent Bourgogne…
2021 Santenay Vieilles-Vignes
Just two lieu dits principally, Les Poirons and Les Hâtes, from over 50-year-old vines. Like the whites, elevage without sulfur until the wine is assembled.
A little more direct and silky – already a more approachable aromatic style. More direct and cool in the mouth – a faint tannin of velvet and a growing width of flavour in the mouth – juicy finishing again – still a modest austerity – but it’s there to stop you wasting bottles – wait 2 years! It’s also a very excellent wine!
There’s a small note of whole-cluster but a polished darker red fruit on the nose too. Ooh – that’s super in the mouth – such a depth of perfume – long – impressive – for keeping but it’s potentially a great one.
2021 Santenay 1er Passetemps
14k/hectare pinot fin planting. This plot touches the last but the two pinots are separated by some chardonnay.
Narrower aromatics – more purity of fruit, no overt wc perfume this time. Wide, silkier and to start, more fluid – slowly growing a fine tannin – the yin to the yang of the last!
Old vines, in fact, the oldest of the domaine. 70-years-old.
Here is more clarity – energy even – of the pure fruit – such a great nose. Hmm – more muscle – lithe and athletic. The tannin is obvious but grainless and hardly a hint of dryness – there’s nothing that destabilises. Top!
2020(!) Gravité
Santenay Rouge. This the cuvée with 2 years elevage.
A completely different style – this with 30 months barrel elevage – spiced, warmer and almost shows a faint menthol – but becoming more and more floral. Mouth-filling – framed with some tannin and some faint bitters too. Despite its power it’s very approachable – I would carafe today but the finish is more subtle than some of the 21s
Les whites:
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Vines in commune of Chassagne
Hmm – that’s a lovely nose, not large-scale but so attractive. A little generosity – and a fine shape – always a little cushion but there’s the structure behind – quite a tannic wine but a delicious one!
Solera Aligoté
Hmm – that’s got a lovely freshness. Clean, structured but cushioned, a supple style that’s growing in intensity. The finish has almost a sherbet intensity. Impressive!
Vines near the casino.
Broader – with an almost waxy yellow citrus aroma. Wow mineral – fluid – accented with citrus energy. Intensity – great wine – almost some intensity-inducing austerity at the end – but wow!
2021 Santenay Les Vignes Dense
14k vines per hectare, bringing smaller grapes. ‘It’s magic it brings the quality of the old vines but with young!’
Also a freshness that has width and an impression of texture – almost sherbet. More calm but still with super width, very fluid – super intensity here. Simply excellent wine.
80-year-old vines, planted at ‘only’ 12k per hectare, always small grapes always great quality, same quality as my last wines, just different
A nose that seems like Meursault but with extra floral notes. Again – super mineral, direct, juicy vibrant finishing – that’s another great white!
2021 Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes
Not the largest aromatic impact but still with purity and citrus energy – that’s a super wine. More incisive, an almost painful intensity, slowly fading – just so impressive. The best Puligny I ever tasted here!
Marne with lots of limestones – ‘more a Chablis geology-style though a different epoch.’
A nice melange of citrus here with extra perfume. Hmm – fine shape, cushioned at the edges but more vibrant and concentrated and wide versus the Puligny – practically more of everything here.
Hmm – more the vibrance of mineral energy, suggesting a hint of reduction. Cooler, I would say finer – I love the mineral but fluid support and the citrus accents of the flavour – the precision – more than Beaurepair and there’s clarity too. Great!