About 3 weeks ago I had the great pleasure to attend the ’10 years-on’ tasting near Beaune for the 1997 vintage – it’s copyright Clive Coates, so other than slowly typing up the notes, this is the closest I’ll get to a ‘report’ – though I note that Clive is still yet to publish his notes from the previous year’s 1996 tasting. From over 100 wines on display I only got round to making notes on around 80 because I desperately needed food two-thirds of the way round, and those more ‘professional’ than I (or perhaps who had an earlier sandwich) downed many of the ‘name’ wines before I returned – still, it was only Richebourg and La Tàche etc… :

Whites: since day 1 they have been ripe and tasty, of some depth if without real minerality, though in contrast to 2003, with quite enough (acid) balance. They remain tasty and apart from some obviously mature ‘lower’ wines there’s no rush to drink and I suggest great restaurant buys – I don’t know if any bottles suffered the ‘p.ox’ (premature oxidation), but those on display were fine.

Reds: The only (semi) surprise was that the wines taken from the producer’s cellars tended to be somewhat fresher than those that have been in the market for the last 8 or so years. About two-thirds of the wines were well-enough balanced – the other third typically had some issue with the acid balance; probably from less well judged acidification. All the more ‘serious’ wines need more time for the reasonably prominent tannins to soften and almost all have rather high-toned and diffuse aromatics (if not roast) i.e. from an aroma perspective tended to disappoint this taster. Only one wine in all the tasting had a dense, deep core of fresh fruit on the nose – that was the Ponsot/Chézeaux Griotte. Essentially, and despite falling some way short of great, they are pretty good wines that burgundy buffs will enjoy for what they are, rather than what they are not! One or two were standouts and I’ll highlight them as I write up the notes.

Some notes have already trickled through the diary in the last two weeks and more will come during the next two weeks while I’m travelling in Asia – normally there are few tasting opportunities on these trips…

Although Pierre Meurgey of Champy had previously told Allen Meadows that he had signed a contract to farm the appellations formerly exploited by Domaine Carré-Courbin, it is only just now officially announced via the BIVB that Maison Champy has taken over half of the ~10 hectare Beaune-based Carré-Courbin domain.

Carré-Courbin vines that are on the move cover ~5 hectares in the appellations of Volnay and Pommard, in particular; Volnay Taillepied, Pommard Grands Epenots plus villages Volnay and Pommard that will boost Champy’s existing production from those villages. The Champy domain now covers 17 hectares.

The BIVB also today announced the new appellation of Bourgogne Tonnerre:

This is the latest addition to the Burgundy family. On 17 July 2006, the appellation decree giving birth to the AOC Bourgogne-Tonnerre was issued. Although vines have existed in this part of the region (north east of Auxerre) since ancient times, no distinction was made between the wines produced here and those from the rest of the Burgundy appellation production area. It is worth noting that this appellation is dedicated exclusively to white chardonnay wines.

The Bourgogne Tonnerre vineyards are located in the valley of the river Armançon. Vine-growing in this area developed particularly from the 9th century onward. The monks of the abbeys of Quincy (near Tanlay) and Saint-Michel (near Tonnerre) played a major role in the intensifcation and improvement of wine-growing. Its development was of course affected by the phylloxera crisis from 1870 to 1890. From 1987, the efforts of a few strong personnalities started to bring it back to life and the best slopes of Tonnerre, Epineuil, Molosmes, Junay and other villages were replanted with carefully selected typical Burgundy varietals.

Bourgogne Tonnerre chardonnay grows best on argilo-calcareous soil (with an upper Kimmeridgian layer). The Tonnerrois is a valleyed region and comparatively sheltered. The appellation covers particularly well-exposed slopes, facing south and southeast. A little over a hundred hectares are under vine, yielding about 6,000 hectolitres of wine. This wine is made from chardonnay grapes. It is a dry, fruity wine. Bourgogne Tonnerre has a fine, clear and characteristically pronounced golden colour A very fine and aromatic wine, it opens on hints of florals, exotic and white fruits, as well as citrus notes. It is frank, tender, as well as having a certain roundness, and bursts in the mouth with slight mineral notes. This wine is ideal with grilled andouillette. Or in a totally different register it is perfect with fish, shellfish, poultry in creamy sauces and white meats. And it will do full honour to Burgundy’s gastronomic specialities such as Burgundy snails and the entire range of regional cheeses, from cooked to unripened cheeses. It can be drunk young and fruity but reaches full maturity after four or five years.

For more information on Burgundy-Tonnerre: www.vignerons-tonnerrois.com