The 1999 of this wine is drinking very well right now – so what about the 1996?
1996 Jean-Claude Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme
Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts with a fine berry/raspberry note, set against a deeper brooding background – lovely – shame then that after 30 minutes you are left only with the brooding background! The palate itself is fresh and like very many of the lower appellation wines from this vintage, it is defined mainly by it’s acidity. Overall the tannin is hidden but the palate is linear and narrow, concentrated for all that but surprisingly primary. Length is almost good. Overall there is little here to suggest that it’s 11 years since the vintage. I wonder if/when it will ever open out – one more bottle remains – so I’ll give it one more chance, age 15, but I wouldn’t buy more.
Rebuy – No

Interesting to let this wine follow the Fourrier. I expected to enjoy the Fourrier more from a style perspective, and this was partly borne out – but the Dugat-Py is actually no muscle-bound monster, nor does it wear an impenetrable suit of oak, it merely lost out because it went through so many phases in the glass, not all of them enjoyable. Overall it impresses but is much more primary (but then it’s also younger) than the Fourrier which today I prefer for it’s elegant, layered complexity – but who is to say that that will not come(?) It’s an easier decision when you factor in the price and realise that you can have 5 bottles of Fourrier for every 2 of the Dugat-Py…

2002 Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de Roy
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. On opening, the nose was actually rather engaging – like the Fourrier only denser. After about 40 minutes it’s deeper-still, rather savoury and ungainly – which is a shame – fortunately after 90 minutes it freshens up a little to give a relatively diffuse black-shade fruit which is not great but is certainly better – the last drops in the glass give cause for optimism though. The palate has a smooth, understated entry, in fact it’s silky smooth, linear and with darker-shaded fruit. The finish is understated, and the length is the equal of the 99 Fourrier.
Rebuy – Yes

The last 3rd of the bottle was consumed on day 2: The nose has remained fresh, the palate has remained linear, silky and balanced. An excellent wine for sure.

1999 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille-Vigne
Medium ruby-red. A nose that starts deep and surprisingly oaky given that there’s normally a maximum of 20% in this cellar – but it’s short-lived before fading into redder, layered fruit overlaid by higher toned alcoholic aspects, maybe even an edge of coffee. In the mouth it starts impressively; it’s well balanced, and shows a lovely, succulent, creamy red fruit. Time increases the depth but eventually dulls the excitement just a hint. It’s intense in the mid-palate and you never really think of the tannin before it slowly fades in the finish – still with that creamy edge. Poised, elegant and a first-class villages.
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Daniel Rion, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is deep with wider mineral notes, an edge of spice and just a little uncouth ‘lifted’ alcoholic top-notes. A little fat that overlays plenty of tannin – it’s quite fine though. Good depth and a good length. This is reminiscent more of 1997’s with a slight lack of freshness – though funnily most of Rion’s 97 are almost good. It’s okay but I wouldn’t buy more.
Rebuy – No

My birthday – so I pulled out a ‘decent’ bottle that I hoped might have just a hint of ‘willingness’. Decanted mainly because of the sediment and drunk over the following 2-3 hours.
2000 DRC, Romanée St.Vivant
Medium, medium-plus colour – just a very faint edge of amber at the rim. The nose is a sniffer’s delight – though the stems are very forward – they overlay a deep and primary red-fruit nose that’s edged with softness and a faint, savoury, musky note. The more it develops in the glass the more savoury it becomes; the last drops showing an extra fineness. In the mouth the wine is clearly grand cru in texture though the concentration is not so up-front, it rather develops on the tongue in an understated way. The tannins are well covered though I find the acidity is the least perfect aspect – not bad, but just a little bright – at this level I demand seamless. There is a subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate and into the finish – which is also very understated. Apart from the nose and the entry, everything about the wine is subtle and low-key – it holds the interest amply though, even the acidity seems well-judged at the death. Very fine now, if not quite mind-bending. I expect it will only get better for at least the next 10 years but it was very much enjoyed – to the last drop!
Rebuy – Yes (at release price, but not the current $500-900 retail!)

Bought, it now seems, for a ‘song’ at en-primeur time at a mere 39 Swiss francs per…
2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Perrières
Limpid medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts tight and unyielding. It slowly releases mocha/espresso high-notes and even over 2 hours remains stable without ever revealing more than a glimpse of fruit. The palate is lithe and athletic but with unforgiving concentration – there is much depth but this is clearly not a wine for today. The tannins are very well covered and the length is also quite espresso without ever becoming overly oaky. Not really all that closed, but an impressive and muscular wine that needs at least 5-10 years in the cellar. I think it will reward that wait
Rebuy – Yes