After more than 5 years of people asking, I finally got round to ordering some ‘calling cards’.
I have to say, credit where credit is due; the quality is excellent – real letterpress printing – and the people and communication were first class. Mandate Press – look them up!
Heading for a long weekend walking in the mountains – back Tuesday – probably!
2005 Yvon Metras, Fleurie Printemps
Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. What to make of the nose? Wide, fruit driven, definitely not pinot noir, but a rather fecund, almost dirty edge to the creamy summer-fruit nose – there is freshness and personality in spades – it’s sort of reduced but not… In the mouth it delivers less than the nose, but is smooth, balanced and just maybe there’s a bit of that ‘dirty’ thing going on in the mid-palate too. It’s Fleurie, and your grandmother may not like it, but I think it’s great. I think it’s even greater when I see the price!
I’ve no info on the domaine, but please fell free to inundate me with stuff! Anyway, this is the first of a couple of bottles I picked up…
1989 Andrée Taupenot, Pommard 1er Les Epenots
Medium, medium-minus colour – some amber at the rim. The nose starts with fungus and undergrowth to be replaced in short-order by dense, chocolate coated red fruits. The acidity starts a little pronounced, but also that slightly discordant note quickly fades. It’s fresh with a lovely burst of flavour in the mid-palate and still a rasp of tannin too. Good length. It has a hint of the rustic, but was devoured – a super bottle.
Rebuy – Yes
My experience of this domaine rests only on a few mid-age bottles from the 97-98 era, and all were woodier than I liked. This wine shows a very different face…
2005 des Perdrix, Vosne-Romanée
Deep colour. Initially diffuse aromatics hinted at a spicy depth but also showed a little mustiness, over about 1 hour there is more focus and clarity offering-up clean black fruit and some minerality. Mouth filling, concentrated, then bursts across the mid-palate with typical Vosne flavours if far from subtle, but to good effect. The tannins are quite well mannered and the finish lingers with an element of oak flavour – but it’s the only woody note. Fresh and tasty, and without overt oak character, but more obviously in need of cellar time than many.
Rebuy – Yes
I’d never heard anything quite like it, and despite there being (still) several minutes of the morning left, I decided to get out of bed and check.
In the garden was this very pretty and wonderfully vocal zebra finch. I presume it had escaped from its cage and would not be long for a world without hand feeding – even in summer – but it made (the last few minutes of) my morning…
William Fevre – and they’ve come a long way since the 2001 vintage – the price too, it’s just over double:
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 37,5cl 22.00 Sfr
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 75cl 39.50
CHABLIS Fourchaume Vignoble Vaulorent 2007 75cl 55.00
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Valmur 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Les Preuses 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Les Clos 2007 75cl 89.50
From Decanter:
Christie’s is set to announce the departure of its long-standing head of wine auctions in the US.
Christie’s vice president Richard Brierley has returned to the UK after nearly eight years running the auction house’s North American division.
Brierley, a British subject, will now oversee preparations for the yearly Hospices de Beaune auction in France, alongside Christies’ long-running Burgundy specialist, Anthony Hanson MW.
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