offer of the day – Bouchard Père et Fils 2007…

By billn on March 24, 2009 #the market

DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE & FILS 2007

VINS BLANCS
MACON LUGNY Saint-Pierre 75cl 17.00 S.Fr

MEURSAULT Genevrières 37,5cl 36.50
MEURSAULT Genevrières 75cl 69.00
MEURSAULT Les Perrières 75cl 75.00

CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 119.00
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 75cl 229.00
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET La Cabotte 75cl 399.50
MONTRACHET 75cl 429.00

VINS ROUGES
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 139.00
ECHEZEAUX 75cl 129.00
CHAMBERTIN 75cl 189.50
CHAMBERTIN Clos de Bèze 75cl 169.00
BONNES-MARES 75cl 228.00

An eye-watering offer, though the Meursault 1ers and Corton-Charlemagne are not completely out of sight if the quality is there – and generally in 2007 I think the quality IS there in the whites. To my mind, the majority of the reds are at least 30% overpriced, except (of course) the Bonnes-Mares which deserves special mention as the most overpriced wine of the year – in February I could buy Christophe Roumier’s 2006 in a Beaune tourist shop for that. I wouldn’t want to be a merchant today with these prices.

back from the côtes…

By billn on March 24, 2009 #site updates#travel

5:40pm 23rd March 2009: Finishing the last row in Romanée-Conti
5:40pm 23rd March 2009: Finishing the last row in Romanée-Conti

Two days in the Côtes and a whole book full of notes to try and put in some semblance of order for the Spring Burgundy Report which should be ‘out’ on Friday evening CET. After a tough 2 hours (well, maybe not!) in Vosne yesterday afternoon tasting the 2007 vintage with the vignerons – 52 notes made it into my book – we took a refreshing walk up the hill, into vines to clear our heads. Under the clear blue sky the first thing we saw was the horse and its handler ploughing their very last row of the day, in the Romanée-Conti vineyard…

1994 bouchard père volnay 1er cuvée carnot

By billn on March 22, 2009 #degustation

Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot
Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot

A few bottles bought at auction for a relative song – of-course it was only a song if they are drinkable…
1994 Bouchard Père, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnottry to find this wine...
Surprisingly deep colour, amber at the rim. The nose starts tight and dense, faintly savoury too, time adds a greeny, herbal note – but not unlikeable. In the mouth it has more than decent concentration for the vintage, similarly decent acidity and a grained tannin that retains a little astringency. The fruit has some sweetness, yet there’s still a bit of bitterness in the finish – I have the impression that the tannin grain and and the bitterness are both barrel derived. Overall this stays rather clunky even if there’s not much here to particularly dislike – or indeed like!
Rebuy – No

jc boisset 2006 morey st.denis 1er monts luisants

By billn on March 20, 2009 #degustation

Jean-Claude Boisset 2006 Morey St.Denis 1er Monts LuisantsProfile: JC Boisset
Jean-Claude Boisset 2006 Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants

2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisantstry to find this wine...
Medium colour. The nose is about hints of tar, licorice, blacker cherry and bramble fruit over a more mineral base. A narrow entry that widens in the mid-palate and pushes a long finish that’s borne on super acidity. Quite transparent and very interesting. Intense, though almost too understated because of its primary nature. Was a lovely bottle.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 meursault 1er perrières bouchard père et fils

By billn on March 19, 2009 #degustation#p.ox

Meursault 1er Perrières Bouchard Père et Fils
Meursault 1er Perrières Bouchard Père et Fils

I was ‘pushed’ to try this following reports from another place that this cuvée was starting to show signs of p.ox – that would be a real shame because, from day 1, it’s been a wonderful wine – and it would also mean that I would need to drink up my modest few bottles. A false positive? I could only know by drinking the rest – maybe I’ll wait another year for the next.
2002 Bouchard Père, Meursault 1er Perrièrestry to find this wine...
Medium-pale colour – certainly looks okay. The nose is wide, showing soft fruit and faint lanolin with an even fainter citrus veil – a faint caramel note eventually escapes the glass. Perfect acidity, a little linear in the mid-palate and a super acid-driven length. Not as ‘giving’ as 3 years ago, but understated excellence, still.
Rebuy – Yes

drouhin-laroze 2005 gevrey-chambertin

By billn on March 18, 2009 #degustation

Drouhin-Laroze 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin
Drouhin-Laroze 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin

Okay – it’s still a Drouhin – but a different one!
2005 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red, still some purple reflections. High-toned black and blue fruit mingles with faint notes of violets – below lies a nice earthy base – lovely. Plenty of forward acidity, but here’s a 2005 that has not yet completely sunk into it’s acidic sleep. Very good fruit, relatively linear but it’s got intensity and length. The tannin is a low-level faint grain and I find no obvious oaky elements. This was a relative bargain and is recommended.
Rebuy – Yes

1995 joseph drouhin, clos de vougeot

By billn on March 17, 2009 #degustation#other sites

At last a 1995 that at least hints of a strong future…
1995 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeottry to find this wine...
A deep core of fruit. The nose is an interesting blend of deep notes, leafy sous bois and plenty savoury width – it’s very nice without ever removing its jacket. Wide, super acidity, background tannin and a wave of mid-palate intensity. Slowly fading flavours finish a very interesting wine. Far from ‘easy’ or ‘open for business’ but this is a nice glass today, and should end up being very super…
Rebuy – Yes

Some interesting things to find on the internet;

  • our very own aspirational burgundy winemaker, Ray Walker, on Grape-Radio
  • Burgundy versus Champagne for the ‘Unesco Cup’
  • and another from ‘The Times’ – it seems somebody doesn’t think much of the 2007 reds
  • Finally ‘The Telegraph’ tells you how to make money in burgundy – from property – where there are (apparently) “pommade” premier crus…

Testing the water in Burgundy

By Ray Walker on March 16, 2009 #ray's posts

Right. It’s been a short while since I’ve added an update. Burgundy has been amazing. The region is similar, yet different than I had expected. For one, by car, the region is a lot larger than I had expected. The villages themselves are intimate places with Boulangeries (bakeries), Bistros, and churches standing tall with ringing bells that bring in the hour, every hour. Looking in from the Route de Grand Vins you pass by many villages. They look so tiny from the road at times in front of rolling hills of vines, yet once inside the villages, there is so much life to see.

Each village is different. Sure, Burgundy is Burgundy, I thought before visiting. Yet, the vineyards aren’t the only thing showing complexity within a tiny amount of space. The food tastes different, the people are different and the experience is completely unique depending on which village you find yourself in.

Living in Burgundy has been going quite well. When I say living, I don’t mean when we were in hotels. We decided to rent a house in Savigny les Beaune after leaving Puligny-Montrachet to see how it was to walk the roads, buy at the market, cook at home- clean up, basically treating it as if we were at home. We managed well, much better than our first try at the supermarche in Paris. In that instance, while our items were rung up, I watched the clerk and the prices fly by. Well, after I paid we noticed the collected lot of items sitting there, waiting to be bagged. With a large line behind us we went scurrying for bags. No bags? Turns out that we needed to purchase the bags that we were to use. Out in the US, we have a bagger and the bagger has the supplied bag. Different system, small detail, but to say the least it was as if someone turned on the blinking neon red ‘Foreigner Alert’ sign above our heads. We learned from that experienced and were actually able to later help others in similar situations.

As many things are different out here, its amazing how comfortable how many things are the same. The feeling of comfort, kindness of people (rare at times in both places, but still present and welcomed), and general activites are enough of a foundation that will make the move less complicated. Nothing you read about a place tells the full story of how you yourself will feel once there. And having a place feel right is a great feeling.

1993 joseph drouhin clos de vougeot

By billn on March 15, 2009 #degustation

1993 Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot
1993 Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot

1993 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeottry to find this wine...
A big cork has been common to all these Drouhins, but this is the first to easily slide from the bottle – it doesn’t look like it’s been a perfect seal – let’s see. A deep core of ruby-red colour, just hinting at amber. Over time the nose vacillates between tight, deep but dark woody notes and a wider, undergrowth driven panorama – I ‘feel’ rather than smell just a hint of oxidation. In the mouth there’s no hint of oxidation, rather a core of flowing acidity is the central pillar. Good intensity with a mouth-watering finish and tannin that still shows a grain. The length and dimension are impressive. This bottle, despite what I suspect to be a less than perfect cork, needs a couple more years – I expect other bottles may need at least five! Much younger than the 93 Charmes and today, far less satisfying – but I’ll be buying a few for future reference.
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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