a heavy weekend…

By billn on July 27, 2009 #degustation#etrangers

2x 2006 Clos de la Roche
2x 2006 Clos de la Roche

I shouldn’t really call a weekend with dear friends ‘heavy’ I suppose, that said, I (the four of us actually) managed to empty the equivalent of 9 bottles in 2 evenings. I think there was some beer too, but I expect that that doesn’t count! Generally the wines were pretty good, but one fell to the curse of the cork and as elaborated by Murphy, it was the most anticipated bottle.
1997 Raymond Boulard, Champagne Millesimetry to find this wine...
Hand-carried from the domaine from (sadly) my only visit in early 2002, also the last of these 97s. Full but balanced with a very nice (to me) baked apple flavour.
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachettry to find this wine...
Seems a little fatter and less crisp than last time out – countered by being served a little too cool. Beautiful Puligny aromas and plenty of flavour – good length too. Very tasty, and devoured in about 20-25 minutes by the thirsty four!
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gainstry to find this wine...
The forward oaky notes of its youth are now more considered and savoury. A little better balanced and more mineral than the 06 villages. Way more dimension in the mid-palate and a great finish
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Lignier-Michelot, Clos de la Rochetry to find this wine...
2006 L et A Lignier, Clos de la Rochetry to find this wine...
A side-by-side comparison – neither holds all the aces. The L et A Lignier, though offering slightly less colour, is a clear winner in the aroma department – just a gorgeous expression of complex fruit – the Lignier-Michelot is good, but really can’t compete. Over the tongue, mirroring the extra colour, the Lignier-Michelot is a little more extracted and offers more ‘up-front’ oomph, from there-on it’s a long slow diminuendo. The L et A offers a different recipe; narrower on entry, bursting with mid-plate dimension and shows more length. No bad wines here, each offers a balanced performance and I’d certainly buy both again, but the relative proportions today would clearly be in favour of Lucie and Auguste’s bottle.
Rebuy – Yes

More bottles tomorrow…

alain jeanniard 2006 morey st.denis vieilles vignes

By billn on July 25, 2009 #degustation

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

I’ve not had many from this domaine which is sited just towards the top of the village on the (vineyard) road into Clos St.Denis, finally I picked up a couple of bottles.

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. Lovely depth and Morey character to the nose – nice red fruit with a real density to back it up – very nice indeed. On the tongue it seems not the ultimate in concentration, but there’s excellent darker fruit with that creamy old-vine impression. The acidity and tannin are slightly forward, but they only serve to cement the long mineral-infused finish – again with an impression of cream – excellent stuff, I’m looking forward to trying one of the domaine’s 1er crus.
Rebuy – Yes

TONG – a wine magazine

By billn on July 23, 2009 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

tongTONG – note, that this was a promotional copy, so I’m honour-bound to say nice things – right? Yeah-right, just like here 😉

It’s worth pointing out, that I’m drawn to things that have been ‘designed’, or perhaps I should say that I’m drawn to things that have not just been made to look good but where people have clearly spent their time on attention to detail. Right from the point I open my letter-box this publication is hitting my design ‘g-spot’ (actually in the sunshine it was blinding me!):

Robust, space-material envelope – cool!

My benchmark wine publication is the ‘World of Fine Wine’ magazine which invariably was 30%+ parting with it’s cheap envelope by the time it reached my letter-box – in this respect WOFW is not a very good benchmark. Hmmm, but taking a more modatorial step back; is this very environmentally friendly? I await a note telling me that metallised, reclaimed, supermarket plastic bags use 30% less CO2 than recycled paper…

Slicing my letter opener through the space-material – and you need a sharp one for this job, hmmm (again), maybe it’s also self-sharpening my letter opener, then the envelope would class as dual use, how do you calculate the CO2 burden now? – out slides Issue #2 of TONG (looks better capitalised!). The publisher is now reeling me in with the high-quality matt paper-stock, typography, white-space and overall design – frankly I don’t care about the words to start with, though I notice on the inside cover “This magazine carries no advertising” – wow! – not only is that rather cool, it’s somewhat radical; either the publisher is of independent means or is barking mad. I read also that the design of each issue will be different:

Q: What makes Tong different from Wine Spectator or Decanter, for instance?
There’s a playful, organic, almost biological concept behind the magazine. Everything is linked, from the paper and the font to the photographs. The paper we used for the launch issue on Sauvignon Blanc, for instance, is smooth and hard, but for the issue on terroir, I’m using a grainier, thicker paper. Each magazine must be a print version of the wine variety.
Excerpt from Wall Street Journal

Now I realise that the publisher is of independent means AND is barking mad! Did I mention that this magazine is €28 per copy, or €100 for the 4 quarterly issues? No? Then perhaps it’s time to look at what it delivers on an intellectual rather than purely aesthetic level.

This is already Issue #2, titled “Terroir”, issue #1 was titled “Sauvignon Blanc” – I’ll leave you to work out what that was about. There are a mere 48 pages – of-course with this paper-stock, they are thick pages – and 21 of those pages are pictures or title pages for the next article! I must say though, it’s more than a mere pamphlet; if there were the normal adverts/classifieds etc., then perhaps this would be a 60-70 page publication and no-one would blink an eye. Back to the content – ‘Terroir’ – and it’s not a bad list of contributors; Kees van Leewen, Claude & Lydia Bourguignon, Serge Wolikow and Olivier Jacquet, Olivier Humbrecht, Alex Martin and John Watling and finally, Brian Croser. Those contributors are set against a contrary/realist (delete as appropriate) editorial from the publisher Filip Verheyden titled ‘Terroir Terrorism’, let battle commence…

Actually I’m not going to tell you what they wrote, rather I will say that some content is self-evident, some annoying, some is ‘new’, and I do like the long list of source material that follows most of the articles. The articles are well enough written given non-English mother tongue of most contributors, more importantly the words are written by people with a deep knowledge of their subject, even if each may have their own ‘angle’ – but that’s the key – it’s not just one writer’s composite view from their own subjective standpoint, it’s a range of views properly represented – in this issue at least.

If I won’t tell you more about the content, I will tell you why I’ve subscribed to this magazine after letting my World of Fine Wine subscription lapse (for the second time); WOFW has great contributors a number of whom I know quite well, it also has some equally great articles, yet it is also a significant ‘establishment advertising vehicle’. Then mix the articles that seem to exist only to pad out the content for more advertising with the articles that simply disappear up their own rear-end and I became bored/frustrated. TONG is stripped down, it is pure content – intense and mineral if you prefer – it fits my inner radical ‘self’ and it’s actually the only wine-related subscription I have today…

I am supporting its first year. Only time will tell if this radical approach can remain viable with a content to match – let’s see.

2007 chézeaux/ponsot griotte-chambertin

By billn on July 22, 2009 #degustation

Domaine des Chézeaux 2007 Griotte-Chambertin
Domaine des Chézeaux 2007 Griotte-Chambertin

I’m rather hooked-in-to this wine just now – maybe I’ll write something eventually…

2007 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a burst of enthusiasm, tightens for a couple of minutes, then relaxes; although it’s not so wide there is a wonderful depth of dark, close to raisined, fruit – eventually the aromas fill-out, proffering baked raspberry edged with violets! In your mouth, it cocks it’s hat to the domaine’s Clos St.Denis with an intensity that is acid-encrusted – fresh redcurrant style – with this wine there’s a little more tannin, but the most surprising aspect is the finish – it’s not so much the length, rather the very mineral, slatey flavour – it seems more like grand cru Chablis than comely Griotte, and that’s the wine all-over. No comfy, plush, slightly facile experience that you may expect from the label, rather a wine that challenges you with every sniff and sip, but in return offers you a different aroma and flavour as reward. I can’t call it gorgeous, but I found it sooo rewarding…
Rebuy – Yes

2006 albert bichot latricières-chambertin

By billn on July 21, 2009 #degustation

2006 Albert Bichot, Latricières-Chambertin
2006 Albert Bichot, Latricières-Chambertin

When tasting through Bichot’s 2007s, of the grand crus one stood out as different; lighter red, less obviously intense than the others – that was the Latricières-Chambertin. Well there’s a thing, the 2006 is like a pea from a pod. This is a cheaper bottle than the recent Parent Pommard 1er Rugiens, but is it a better wine?
2006 Albert Bichot, Latrcières-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red colour. High-toned, slightly volatile red fruits over a faintly gunflint and vanilla base. Red fruit that is not so concentrated, but pretty striking. Plenty of oaky flavour and really impressive length, though that’s also a little heavy on the vanilla. Softly textured, this has the intensity of a 1er cru, but it really does have the complexity of a grand cru. It’s a relatively cheap bottling, at that price it’s an easy rebuy nomination.
Rebuy – Maybe

06 vincent girardin santenay charmes

By billn on July 20, 2009 #degustation

2006 Vincent Girardin, Santenay Les Charmes
2006 Vincent Girardin, Santenay Les Charmes

2006 Vincent Girardin, Santenay Les Charmestry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red with purple reflections. Soft, dark cherry fruit, a hint alcoholic but initially just missing some depth – that definitely improves with time. Very good intensity. Whilst there are none of the obvious oak characters, there is an ashy accent to the fruit. Just a little lift to the acidity and indeed the mid-palate where there’s just a hint of gas (that’s probably the reason). The finish that falls away relatively quickly. For most of the bottle I thought this a ‘so what?’ wine, but the last half of the last glass was quite engaging.
Rebuy – Maybe

vines for sale in pommard

By billn on July 17, 2009 #vines for sale

Pommard Les Petits  Noizons
Pommard Les Petits Noizons

There you go a ‘snäpchen’ – nicely sited ‘name’ vines overlooking the village of Pommard.

pdfOkay, not entirely cheap at €186,000, but you get almost 0.3 hectares – who would complain? I do, however, note that said vines are available only after the 2015 harvest, I didn’t know that you could also buy vines en-primeur…!

02 henri latour et fils auxey-duresses 1er grands champs

By billn on July 17, 2009 #degustation

2002 Henri Latour et Fils, Auxey-Duresses 1er Grands Champs
2002 Henri Latour, Auxey-Duresses 1er Grands Champs

I think ‘background-info’ so important, don’t you? So just for the record, this was drunk, lightly chilled (it didn’t stay chilled in the glass) after mowing my grass in 32°C temperatures yesterday evening. It was just what I needed!
2002 Henri Latour et Fils, Auxey-Duresses 1er Grands Champstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose has a dense core, but is generally hard to get at for over an hour – after, it has some savoury hints, faint estery top-notes but stronger and almost good red fruit in the middle. In the mouth there’s good balance – perhaps a little ‘thin’ in the mid-palate, but just now that’s a 2002 thing, it’s definitely not just this wine. Despite that, there’s a nice cushioned texture and a reasonable finish. Decent intensity in the mid-palate. This is a value wine and was enjoyed.
Rebuy – Yes

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