très disappointing: bachelet & lignier-michelot

By billn on August 20, 2015 #degustation

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Yet another reason that Denis might not have time for me later in the year! The Bachelet’s storage, save for shipping to Switzerland in April/May was direct IB from en-primeur purchase, followed by my own passive cellar for the last 10 years, which very slowly cycles between 13-19°C depending on the highs or lows of the seasons.

1999 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Ouf – that’s strong! The nose that is, and of brett too – it’s not just strong, it’s a big shame. In the mouth this has quite fine flavour, but it’s nae-on impossible to enjoy a wine without actually sniffing said wine. I know that with brett, every bottle is likely to be different, but it seems I should drink these up ‘just in case…’
Rebuy – No

2007 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Hmm – this is a very butch nose, large-scaled, just a little oaky and round, but really not a pretty thing. In the mouth this is also large-scaled, but with darkly-sweet fruit and some real interest in the mouth. From a flavour perspective, whilst good, it’s less good than the Bachelet and whilst the aromas are far from tempting, I can forgive that as potentially just a ‘phase.’ Overall, whilst the flavour is not bad, it’s currently a poor advert for Chambolle.
Rebuy – No

Regarding the Bachelet, maybe there’s something to be said for the quality of modern, ‘light’ filtration. Anyway, I was driven to try a glass of Lambrini after those – I hereby confirm that it was only the one glass…

wasps – lucky burgundy…

By billn on August 20, 2015 #etrangers#vineyard pestilence

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In central Switzerland (at least) these critters are a serious problem this year. Not only can you hardly enjoy a drink or a plate of food in the garden, they are now beginning to devour the grapes as their sugar levels reach and pass 8°. Lucky Burgundy – only 300km overland from these pics, but I’ve hardly seen any in the vines there – it certainly wouldn’t be the most pleasant picking conditions if you are competing with the wasps for what remains of each cluster…

gevrey, rôtisserie, beze – dead?

By billn on August 18, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015#vintage 2015

DSC07496Finally! you say – a bit of Côte de Nuits action!

Today, a small tour around Gevrey centre, followed by an excellent lunch in the bistro of Rôtissèrie du Chambertin (good value too) and then a walk through Clos de Bèze to recover. Although only about 21°C today, the sun was hot – only later in the afternoon was there more cloud and a threat – but no more – of rain.

Clos de Bèze – despite its lofty status – is a great place to get an average view of how the grapes are progressing; it starts low but goes quite high on the hill, there are dark areas by the forest too – very different to the sunny, lower and mid-slope vines. The grapes look very clean, very small and the clusters have the weight and hardness of small hand-grenades – all seem very clean of rot so-far. The leaf colour of first vines of each row that face the sun already have the look of autumn (see right), but behind, as the rows continue, they seem pretty normal. In just a few places – for instance the first vines next to the road (Route des Grands Crus) as you approach Morey St.Denis, the lowest leaves are brown like November – yet like elsewhere, the vines along the rows seem fine.

Overall the veraison is a little more advanced than some of the Côte de Beaune vineyards I’ve seen, but not 100% done. The taste of these (€100/kg?) grapes is largely sweet and round – like the whites – probably because malic acid seems relatively low in this vintage. Clearly there’s plenty of skin this year though, and it has quite a good taste – so-far…

Building-site Gevrey-Chambertin:

Clos de Bèze:

chablis – looking up and looking down

By billn on August 17, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

I know I’ve been a bit Côte de Beaune focused the last days/posts, so I thought that today I’d make a change – we went to Chablis instead!

Actually the weather (as you can see) was very nice – about 25°C and better than darker, showery Beaune. Lunch at Au Fils du Zinc and Raveneau’s 2010 Les Clos for a mere €62 Euros!!! It’s unobtainable elsewhere at double that price – très yum, of-course!

Chablis – looking up!

Chablis – looking down!

and today in the afternoon – saint romain

By billn on August 16, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

More cloud on Sunday afternoon and a mere 16°C in the Hautes Côtes – it snowed in Switzerland today – just a few spots of rain here. Still, Saint Romain (Haut) is a lovely walk with epic views and super houses – a bit too far from the co-op to think of buying a place though 😉

a little walk around ladoix today

By billn on August 15, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015#vintage 2015

Well, nobody else was doing it!

It’s been a pretty rainy week – there was a little this morning too, but mostly just cloud after about 10h00. Indeed we’ve had more than 60mm in the last week, which is such a contrast to basically nothing in July! It’s been hard for the young vines – you can see some with yellowing leaves, but nothing (yet!) like the vines stripped of leaves that we saw in 2003 when in certain vineyards the roots couldn’t go deep enough to slake their thirst – Beaune Clos du Roi springs readily to mind.

May 2015 started cool and wet and ended up almost 30°C. June had 2-3 days of heavy rain, July, depending on where you were in the Côtes had 1mm to 10mm – but only on the one day. The vineyards largely looked in super condition before this August rain, despite the dry weather, but the recent rain has eased vigneron’s concerns considerably.

As you can see (below) veraison is not yet finished in this part of the Côte de Beaune – we have potential alcohols of about 8-9% at the moment. So-far in August, despite the odd spike approaching 40°C it’s been relatively cool versus July. As veraison is not yet, or only just, finished and the weather is now more changeable, it’s still much too early to conclude anything meaningful on the character of the wines that will come – but in about 3 weeks we’ll be harvesting and all will become clearer. So-far, and as you can see, the berry size is rather small – like 2010 or less – and the sanitary conditions look very clean indeed. Let’s see how the weather progresses and whether it will stay this way, or if the grapes will get the chance to suck up a little water…

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

By billn on August 14, 2015 #the market

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I thought this might be of interest to anyone in Beaune/Burgundy/France – it’s (to my knowledge) Laurent Ponsot’s’ first official ‘outlet.’

Attached to the Hotel de Beaune and the Bistro de l’Hôtel is a wine-shop – largely unremarkable in its first 18 months or-so – save for its artwork! They have now upped their game. A range of 1er and GC wines are now available from Laurent Ponsot – and he sets the prices, not the shop. They are not cheap, but in the context of older wines, ex-cellars, there’s no obvious gouging here, and you can even buy his Clos St.Denis TVV on its own – there are cases of different vintages! I saw 1ers from 1997 and 1998 that were about €70. Grand Crus from a range of vintages were €250-350(+) plus some in magnum format too.

This wine shop is also now the only place in Beaune where you can buy the wines from Olivier Bernstein – another recent ‘acquisition’ – they are très expensive, but having recently visited Olivier (May Report), I can almost see the value in Bernstein’s Chambolle 1er 2012 for €120…

The wines of Charles van Canneyt are available too – yet another new offering, and one that’s definitely on my list of producers to visit.

So an impressive selection – some are ridiculously priced like those below (one tenth would still be too much outside of a restaurant), but there are plenty of 1990/1993 wines from the likes of de Montille and d’Angerville that seem relative bargains, for touristy Beaune, at ~€300…

Burgundy Report

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