Samples shipped to me by Fabien Dupperay’s PR company – there’s €10 there, just in corks…

I tasted some of these just one year ago with Fabien (here for subscribers), but they were still in tank as he bottles late – he was planning for August 2017. Here I get to try the finished product.

2015 Fleurie
From Morriers and Chapelle du Bois
Very deep colour – if not quite saturated. The nose starts a little yeasty – it needs air. A couple of minutes are enough to release such an impressive depth of kirsch-style dark fruit – it remains a little tight above though. Hmm, this wine melts into the palate, ingraining itself, initially with an inky depth of fruit before emphasising the mineral. The flavour is direct and carried with deft freshness – no mean feat given the concentration. This is great Fleurie!

2015 Chénas Judgement Derniere
Only 9-10 hl/ha
Just a shade lighter in colour. A much rounder and initially brighter nose – there’s some zing – a vibration to the red fruit here. A more overt freshness, here with a very fine but present tannin – texturally it’s a drag over the tongue rather than any apparent grain. Holding a width of impressive flavour in the finish with a more licorice aspect in those flavours. Rounder and redder in character, a wine to wait for – or you will have to take a carafe and wait two hours – then you have more focus, more silk and it becomes the only wine from these five that brings a lovely perfume of violet flowers. Modestly attractive if you pop and pour, but treat it well and you will be rewarded.

2015 Morgon
Back to the deep colour of the Fleurie. Here is a tight nose, one that implies a concentration of dark fruit at its core – but without letting you touch it! Sleek, fresh, like the Chénas it’s showing a little dryness but on a lower level to that wine. It’s brooding, mega-serious stuff, yet open in the finish and fabulously long. Definitely a wine for those with patience, but it has everything going for it – incisive flavour and a hauntingly long finish. Great wine but easily the most backward/least accessible today versus the last two.

2015 Moulin à Vent
25 hl/ha – his highest yield in 2015!
Deep colour. A nose of width, energy and a little spice to the slightly reductive, hence, darker fruit. Extra volume – a mouth-filling wine of energy and concentration – faint bitters in the finish – but this is such a bravado performance – there’s almost braggadocio here. Flavour that melts over the palate into the finish – such a delicious, complex and long finish. If you just want to pop and pour, this is the most delicious and giving of all these today.

2015 Moulin à Vent Les Michelons
A deep colour. There’s such a depth of aroma but there’s an overall tightness too – like the Morgon – don’t touch! Slowly it starts to add some floral complexity. Ooh – despite all that has gone before, there is more volume and energy here and a more overtly mouth-watering, juiciness of flavour too. Juicy, but it’s not all fruit, there’s lots of minerality here. Beautiful texture that’s accented with a hint of dryness. Another great wine, whose energy makes this very accessible.

The Chénas is showing a little behind its siblings today – unless you have a carafe and a little patience – the others are more obviously great wines.

For all their €2 corks, lovingly applied wax capsules and beautiful presentation, the price of these wines is shocking by the standards of Beaujolais, though still quite modest when compared to the Côte d’Or. I’ve no problem with such pricing when people get it right – I’ve placed an order!

I bought the wines of this estate from about 1998-2005 – usually a mix of village Gevrey and Chambolle VVs plus the ubiquitous Clos St.Jacques and the Griotte – I think there may have been a couple of Morey Clos Solon purchases afterwards, but even that got to a price that I wasn’t prepared to pay. Not that I ever had bad wines – in fact even the 2004s were pleasers from here – a few corked bottles not withstanding. The biggest shame of the price appreciation of this producer is that these wines never seem to be opened/talked about these days.

Today I’m down to my last few – maybe 15+ bottles – and given that my weekend bottles were of a lighter style, I decided that it was time for a change of gear:

2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
I seem to remember that about the time that this was released, you could buy a whole case (of 12!) of this wine for £300 IB – winesearcher tells me that I can buy a case for £3,300 (IB) today! Before this vintage I had often mused that this CSJ was a more mineral and complex wine than the domaine’s Griotte-Chambertin – so intellectually a more interesting wine – that Griotte being all about accessible fruit and luxurious texture. I see 2003 as a bit of a crossover vintage – the domaine’s Griotte today is all that it should be and has put a gap between itself and the still admirable Clos St.Jacques.
Ooh – now that’s a deeper colour than the weekend’s 96 and 95! The nose has a padded volume of ripe, voluptuous fruit – both engaging and very inviting – becoming a blend of dried fruits, florals and blood! Ooh – and the palate’s a match too! Round, plush – such a decadent texture. Rich flavoured to match the texture but with a nice line – layers of flavour that are a little stony at the core but mouth-watering as it extends into the finish. It’s hard to pinpoint an age – there is so little maturity in the flavour, it’s timeless – almost and so-far – only the colour is telling me that it’s not a youngster. There are days that I could drink this bottle in one sitting, but I’ll hold firm and force myself to follow it over two days – the sacrifices!
Day 2; The floral aroma remains, today with a hint of meaty earth to add to the fruit. The palate seems a little shrill versus day 1 – Fourrier wines never seem as good on day 2 – so drink up on day 1 – it’s worth it!
Rebuy – Yes

The Spiess was a cheap and super-cheerful wine with sweetness but balanced, gushing acidity – one to be careful of in the sunshine as the bottle will empty very quickly!

1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis
Bottle one – such a brutal level of TCA – I didn’t like how the cork smelled when pulled, and the wine did indeed prove to be devastatingly corked – so bottle 2:
Really a very compact nose – it’s certainly clean and fresh – no mushroom, no brett – only very slowly developing a little wild-strawberry – always subtle, never unlikeable. The mouth is classic for the vintage; direct, mouth-watering and almost surprisingly for a Clos St.Denis, with a lovely mid-palate vibration of minerality. In terms of overall size you could be disappointed, but in terms of its delicacy and its modest but engaging complexity, I found this a treat.
Rebuy – Yes (but not he first one of-course!)

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
I have the impression that everyone has either given up on this vintage, or drunk them all, because I hear nothing about it anymore. But all my recent bottles have been in a fine place:
Another nose of faint strawberry, good clean aromas and a nice line. The palate has more width that the Clos St.Denis but less concentration – this seems ‘lite’ these days but it is open, transparent and engaging – no tannin worth mentioning despite the producer. Very easy to drink, transparent, tasty, accessible wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 JC Boisset, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes-Jarrons
​As ‘understudy’ to the poor Ecard Savigny I looked to see if I had the same vineyard/vintage from another source – almost – it was a super-sub more like!
A deep colour and still quite young-looking too. The nose is fresh, wide and direct, dark fruit and faint spice. In the mouth too this is a sleek, silky, wine of direction and young dark fruit. It’s a baby, but it’s reasonably approachable too. Really excellent – I’ll try not to touch the remaining three or four bottles for a few more years!
Rebuy – Yes

And for the fun:

2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Perrières
I had one of these when my 6-pack was first delivered – monstrous wine for the patient. As you can see, I’m not totally patient!
What a sublime nose! Transparent, airy yet with a beautiful fresh perfume that intertwines flowers and pure red berry fruit. The palate has lost the massive impact of youth, though is actually still a little one-dimensional today – at least compared to the nose. A super shape and line to this wine, even if the flavours are a little tight. Still, it’s fresh and delivers fine intensity but watch this space for some complexity though. Perhaps another 5 years should elapse before the next one!
Rebuy – Yes

You could say that this was a disappointment! Maurice Ecard was bought by Bejot in 2006, so certainly before this was bottled. Of-course since the adulteration scandal of 2016, the parent for this ‘brand’ (yes – they all become brands…) is now maison François Martenot…

2005 Maurice Ecard, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Jarrons
I last opened one of these in 2008 – and it was lovely. Hmm, the nose starts with an impression of funk/brett. In the mouth it’s a very raisined style of fruit and even tending to oxidation. I decide to leave it for half an hour to see if it clears up a little – I returned to totally oxidised! Most 40 year-old wines don’t taste like this. The cork is admittedly not very long, but looks to have been a correct seal. Not good. I have another, but I’ll let the pain fade a little before opening it!
Rebuy – No

2010 Louis Boillot, Les Trois Saints Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Fresh, very dry, tasty wine but lacking any great complexity – this was honestly a bit too young – positive for the eventual quality, but for drinking today their Limited Edition cuvée is the one to go for!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Jean Loron, Jean Gamay Noir
A vin de france, not Beaujolais. Honestly there’s some interesting fruit, but this nose isn’t my thing, I find it a little (for want of a better adjective) cheesy – I decanted and it improved, but only a little. By contrast the flavour is brilliant! Depth, pure gamay-fruitedness, a wine that can be drunk far too easily. Just a shame about the nose…
Rebuy – No

2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petite Chapelle
There is some aromatic similarity to the domaine’s 2005 Perrières in terms of the initial impression of the fruit and some high volume oak when young – but no funk – here is a bravado performance without defaults. Like the cordial nose, the first sip is almost too much of everything – too much fruit, too rich – how are we going to drink this? In short order the aromatic vestiges of vanilla oak are gone and there is a fresher and more saline vibe. The flavour too becoming more sleek and interesting. Wow. The best measure bay far, however, is that we thought almost half the bottle waited for our plate of food – actually just half a glass! A wine that goes so effortlessly is a great wine in our household!
Rebuy – Yes

A modest weekend as there was driving to be done. Another über-tasty Collet crémant followed by this little beauty:

2005 Cornu, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
My last 05 Cornu, about a month ago was good but a little austere – this, however, is just fabulous. The nose is so silky and attractive – with gorgeous red fruit that only intensifies with open time. In the mouth it’s wonderfully balanced yet so concentrated. I’d be happy if the label said Corton from another vintage. Simply great Ladoix!
Rebuy – Yes
 

Bern…

Bern…

Looking towards the Côte de Brouilly from Pizay (Morgon)

Tasted today at Bien-Boire-en-Beaujolais A quick-fire 43 bottles, starting with a section of new stuff from domaines that I largely don’t know, followed by some ‘old stuff’ from a mix of known and unknown domaines. I see that Jamie, who was there the day before, has also made a short film – I keep thinking abut doing the same – but editing time is not to be underestimated! Enjoy:

2015 Domaine Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers
A nose with a dark depth and a brighter, almost floral top. Modest concentration, but a really fine texture and, still, depth of flavour. Waves of finishing flavour containing a little licorice and graphite – fine…
2016 Laurent Guillet, Domaine de la Chaponne, Morgon Côte du Py
Higher toned, more floral freshness. Much more floral and open on the palate. Long, graphitic, mineral finish – again. This is excellent!
2015 Cedric Vincent, Moulin à Vent les Merizes
Magnum – Vibrant, almost sweet raspberry nose. Depth of flavour, concentrated too, with unfolding layers, subtly accented with vanilla but at a level where I can’t (won’t!) complain. Excellent, indeed profound wine.

2017 Domaine Bertrand, Beaujolais Villages Super Canon
A pretty freshness, accented with attractive red fruit. Really mouth-filling, silky textured wine. Overt Beaujolais fruit style – but such fun – with layers of finishing flavour – excellent!
2016 Château Grange Cochard, Morgon Vieilles-Vignes
A narrow nose but with a top note of fresh fruit – slowly it widens, and deliciously! Ooh – a wine of comely sweet fruit, concentrated in the middle, but with a delicious finish. Tightly concentrated in the middle – delicious at all the edges – this just needs a little time, but it’s super!
2015 Domaine de la Bouronière, Fleurie
A modest nose but it gives the impression of silk. Direct, a little structured and muscular – not a Fleurie archetype – but there’s good density of mid-palate flavour that augers well.
2015 Pizay Morgon
Magnum – Almost black! A nose that initially lacks depth and seems a little volatile above. The flavours also hint at volatility, but there’s concentration and not a little tannin too. I’d avoid.
2015 Domaine Joncy, Côte de Brouilly
A width of sweet fruit, with more interest. Fresh, round in the middle, quite tasty fruit. Delicious!
2016 Domaine Joncy, Morgon
A relatively tight nose, but one with a very attractive floral component. A little accent of high-toned, almost volatile fruit. But very fine mouth-watering balance. The mid-palate into the finish are just lovely.
2016 Domaine de Fa, Fleurie Roche Guillon
A modest nose, very faintly floral. Good width of flavour and great texture. A fresh salinity and alround deliciousness. Yum!
2015 domaine Baron de l‘Evuse, Côte de Brouilly
Magnum – A wide and fresh nose, though a little herbed. Bigger and sweeter in the mouth than the nose suggested. A little fresh saline complexity abetting the weight of mid-palate flavour. Good wine.
2015 Domaine des Marrans, Fleurie
The nose offers A direct pyrazine note. Fresh, wide, open and tasty wine. Yum.
2016 Nicolas Chemarin, Beaujolais Villages Les Vignes de Jeannot
A deep, slightly brooding nose, sweetness and whole clusters – rather attractive, actually. Ooh, supple, concentrated in the middle, complex, and with lots of energy. Super wine, with a great finish!
2016 Domaine Clos du Fief, Juliénas Cuvée Prestige
A relatively tight nose. Fresh, layered wine, rather different in style to all that have come before. A strong saline accent in the finish. Tasty!
2017 Steeve Charvet, Chiroubles
A top and bottom style of nose, not so wide, but very attractive. Round, fine balance, supple and sweet – such a delicious thing. A modest accent of tannin in the finish. Super wine!

2015 Christophe Savoye, Chiroubles cuvée Loïc
An implied florality and depth, but quite a tight nose all the same. Bright, fresh, energy and concentration. This is really super, with lovely finishing layers of flavour.
2015 Romuald Petit, Morgon Pur Sang
Pur sang? Pur vanilla more like. Big, concentrated, vibrant wine – but not for me…
2016 Hirsch, Moulin à Vent
A modest nose some fresh complexity, a mix of herb and flowers. Volume and a nice fresh and sweet complexity in the mouth – much tastier than the nose suggests. Yum!
2015 Domaine de la Madone, Fleurie Dame de la Pétoche
A narrow nose but one that keeps adding more floral perfume. Round, a wine of freshness and sweetness of fruit. I like finish a lot – plenty of good parts here.
2014 Domaine Ruet, Brouilly Vieilles-Vignes
A narrow nose, but still a deep nose – lowly adding some floral interest too. Not as big as many on the mouth, but a wine that’s full of fresh energy – a dynamic wine – it’s delicious too!
2014 Jean Berard, Beaujolais Villages le Perreon Madone Bio
This nose is a little evolved, not so interesting. In the mouth its more alive, but also a little volatile. Not a great bottle…
2013 Chateau des Moriers Moulin à Vent Vieilles-Vignes
Hmm, less full-power than many, but here’s a nose still with lots of aromatic interest – perhaps a faint suggestion of vanilla too(?) Round, silky, nice concentration, yes some vanilla, but a 2013 that’s coming into a good place to drink. Tasty, with a little tannin in the finish too.
2013 Chateau des Ravatys, Côte de Brouilly R
Also an open if not full-power nose with hints of oak, pyrazine and fruit too. Round, fresh, good energy – a little vanilla in the complexity. But another 2013 that’s starting to show well.

Now some old stuff:

1988 Pizay Morgon
Magnum – A sweet, chocolatey width of aroma. Bright, fresh, still a rasp of tannin, but no oxidative aspects. A super surprise!
2003 Clos du Fief, Juliénas
A sweetness of turned leaves and old fruit. Extra sweet on the palate, intense, wide, almost too much sweetness in all directions, but in great shape!
2009 Julien Duport, Côte de Brouilly
A slightly tighter nose. In the mouth direct and fresh after the 2003! A tasty wine of lots of fresh energy – yum!
2005 Baron de l’Ecuse, Côte de Brouilly
A less attractive nose – almost a little rubber. The palate is better, with direction and intensity, a little chocolate complexity too.

2006 Clos du Fief, Juliénas Cuvée Prestige
Quite a brown colour. A bit bretty. Soft, simple, round, oxidised. Worst wine of the day…
2007 Domaine des Sochons, Morgon Les Climats
A brighter nose – it doesn’t take much! Round, good freshness a modest oxidative character but an interesting wine none-the-less.

2009 Chateau Thivin, Côte de Brouilly cuvée Godefroy
Magnum – Actually a little tight, but some lovely floral notes start to come through. Hmm, lots of sweetness but sleekness of line too with such fine texture. Beautiful wine – no surprise.
2009 Domaine Ruet, Brouilly Vieilles-Vignes
Deep, a little extracted and stewed. Lots of volume and good freshness, the flavour profile seemingly also a little stewed too.
2009 Domaine Bertrand, Brouilly
Magnum – A modest intensity nose – just a little sweetness showing. Lots of volume, quite some energy too, this is super – it finishes a little quickly, but it’s super in the mouth!
2009 Domaine de la Madonne, Fleurie 1889
Ooh – volatile and stewed – in the mouth very high-toned though less obviously volatile. Actually quite tasty here, but I don’t like the nose…
2009 Domaine de la Bouronière, Fleurie
A narrow nose with some freshness. Nice volume with mouth-watering flavour. The finish is the best part, mineral, mouth-watering and showing some complexity.
2010 Chateau des Moriers Mouilin à Vent
Wide, floral and vanilla. Volume, freshness nicely open, good in the mouth despite the vanilla.
 

Now that’s a blackboard!

Opening vines

Opening trees

A Super Canon!

Pizay lunch…

Pizay

Pizay

Pizay

​
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Perrières
Hmm, drunk directly following the Chenu there’s more concentration, intensity and vibrancy of flavour. The nose starts with some old oak notes that quickly fade, then there are flashes of pure-fruited brilliance but also an intermittent Brett note. The latter only ever gets slowly worse. So I drank this quite quickly. A curate’s egg – but a good one if such a thing exists! I have two more – given the brett I probably won’t wait too long to attack those – and then there’s a couple of other 2005 cuvées from this producer – always there’s work to be done 🙂 Note, lots and lots of heavy sediment – the glasses needed a rinse before…
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 Vougeraie, Vougeot 1er Les Cras
When younger, this wine was a dead-ringer for a 2004 with its bright and forward pyrazine. Today it starts with a herby, vegetal, vegetable garden nose – which fortunately doesn’t last long – and what remains is floral fruit of good distinction – no pyrazine. The nose slowly adds a fresh and clean dried leaves aspect too. Unlike the palate where, whilst modest, it is an ever-present. That said, this wine has freshness and complexity – a certain joie-de-vivre before a little, slightly rustic, tannin. Very tasty wine indeed – it took two nights to finish, but it was very good all the same.
Rebuy – Yes