Degustation

olivier guyot 2005 bourgogne pinot noir

By billn on July 15, 2008 #degustation

olivier guyon bourgogne pinot noir 2005

It’s the first time I’ve seen wines from this domaine and Olivier seems a bit of a character. Manually harvested Bourgogne (an idealist obviously) and a picture of himself and his horse (Indigo) on the label. His website is as individualistic as his labels and has lots of info. I also found this lovely quote:

This wine is from Olivier Guyot. He is considered somewhat eccentric by some of his neighbors, as he has sold his tractor and gone back to organically horse farming his vineyards. He feels it is better for the land, and that he gets better fruit from doing so. The grapes are hand-harvested, of course, and the wine is bottled without filtration. The domaine has passed from father to son since the 16th century…

The Marsannay based domaine is about 15 hectares so that’s a lot of standing behind his horse! I also have one of his Gevrey 1er Champeaux in the cellar – looks like fun!
2005 Olivier Guyot, Bourgogne Pinot Noirtry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has a dense and slightly rustic core, but above soars beautiful and very fine fruit. There is some fat and a dense core that reflects the nose. The acidity is slightly bright but that’s par for the course for many tightening 2005 wines. Finer fruit than the appellation might suggest but with good fat and an engaging hint of rusticity. On day two, even that rusticity is gone – super! – I bought a couple more.
Rebuy – Yes

claude dugat 2005 gevrey-chambertin

By billn on July 08, 2008 #degustation

claude dugat 2005 gevrey chambertin

The wines of Claude seem to have passed me by; they have a great reputation and they may be far from cheap but they tend to be harder to find than to afford!  So here’s a villages at a little under twice the price of the average bottle of villages Gevrey, it’s also my first from Claude!
2005 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Wow, what a nose; a beautiful and rather haunting perfume of hedge-row flowers, elderflower and soft red fruits with a suggestion of oak. A soft entry with understated concentration, velvety tannin and a creamy oak coating to the finishing flavours – it’s also very long for a villages. It’s not perfect though, the flavours have just a little oaky bitterness, but the sour-cherry fruit coupled to wonderful aromatics make this a compelling glass.
Rebuy – Yes – even at the price of some Clos de Vougeot!

foillard 2006 morgon côte du py

By billn on July 07, 2008 #degustation#travel

jean foillard morgon cote du py beaujolais

Jean Foillard (Morgon, Beaujolais) – I had a bottle from this producer last week, in Brussels at a place called Rince Cochon. Most of the wines there were relatively inexpensive, but are ‘natural’ or to re-phrase, have very few manipulations and often have no sulfur used to preserve them – so do keep them cool! The bottles were all interesting, some with obvious faults such as volatilie acidity, but lots of fun. Just for the record, we drank the 2006 Foillard Morgon Côte du Py – I loved it – it looks rather nice too with those red-waxed closures. They had two magnums in the cellar, and despite the restaurant price of 40 Euros each – I bought both.
Lovely! try to find this wine...

PS – The 2005 version from Potel-Aviron was still drinking very, very well on Saturday. I really don’t know how I’m going to stop drinking these, that’s only 6 bottles left now… 🙁

jean-marc boillot 2006 montagny 1er cru

By billn on July 05, 2008 #degustation

2006 Jean-Marc Boillot, Montagny 1ertry to find this wine...
Medium-pale yellow. Starts a little spritzy on the nose, but very slowly loses the sherbet note to deliver nice subtle oak and plenty of ripe pear fruit. Good balance with faintly lingering acidity. The flavours are lingering, if just a little saccharin. Always a reasonable value wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

drouhin-laroze 2005 gevrey 1er au closeau

By billn on July 04, 2008 #degustation

drouhin-laroze 2005 gevrey 1er au closeau

I think that Drouhin-Laroze are the only label you are likely to find for this 1er cru…
2005 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Au Closeautry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red with plenty of purple at the rim. The nose doesn’t have too much depth, but the width is interesting with fresh, precise red cherry/berry notes and an edge of cream. Leave it a couple of hours and you end up with a more classic and forward earthy note edged with cream.  Fresh and perfectly balanced with understated but relatively fine tannin. The tannin comes a little more to the fore with time.  Not the concentration of many Gevrey 1ers from the vintage, indeed it just seems a little light until you get some 1er cru dimension in the mid-palate and length. Would be a real success in 2004, but in context it’s only almost good in 2005. At any rate it’s interesting, competent, clean and fresh with no overt oak character – it’s also very tasty. At the price I paid (almost 60 Sfr), it’s far from great value though.
Rebuy – Maybe

niellon 2006 chassagne-montrachet

By billn on July 03, 2008 #degustation

niellon chassagne montrachet 2006

2006 Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachettry to find this wine...
Medium-pale yellow. The nose is a full dose of medium-toast oak and additional quite savoury notes – if you give it a couple of hours there’s a little baked apple fruit. The taste is concentrated and likewise savoury and initially wood-dominated. Decent acidity pushes the length a little further – and it is long. I’d like my glass to show a little more fruit, but this has the potential to be a good Chassagne, just leave it a couple of years.
Rebuy – Maybe

jc boisset 2006 morey monts luisants blanc

By billn on June 29, 2008 #degustation

jc boisset 2006 morey saint denis monts luisants blanc chardonnay

2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Morey St.Denis Monts Luisants (Blanc)try to find this wine...
One of the rarer bottlings by JCBoisset winemaker Gregory Patriat – a single barrel, 295 bottles. Pale lemon yellow. A nose of creamy oak plus bright pineapple fruit that slowly fades. Well textured and with perfect acidity. The flavours are ripe – not too much so – and tasty, but far from simple, I even imagine (perhaps) a little aniseed and coconut. Slowly fades. A super wine, and a fine buy.
Rebuy – Yes Two bottles drunk already, best re-order…

marc jomain 2005 puligny 1er les perrières

By billn on June 27, 2008 #degustation

marc jomain puligny perrieres

2005 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrièrestry to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.
Rebuy – Yes

jomain 2005 puligny-montrachet 1er les combettes

By billn on June 26, 2008 #degustation

2005 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Combettestry to find this wine...
A medium lemon yellow colour and a nose of citrus width, though never developing anything other than a little brioche depth. The palate is a mouth-full and initially reasonably textured, but as it slowly slides to the finish there is a little oaky texture and a lot of oak flavour. Despite concentration and intensity I’m currently missing freshness and a 1er cru mid-palate dimension. It’s a little one-dimensional and far from mouth-watering. I wouldn’t open another for 2-3 years to let the oak subside and hopefully unleash the wine within. If the oak just neads time, where will the freshness come from(?)
Rebuy – Maybe

I won’t quite describe it as humble pie, but after 48 hours in the refridgerator, there’s a nice extra creamy dimension on the nose and palate, and that oak has largely melted. I’d still like more acidity but this is at least a ‘maybe’ now…

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