2001 Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée![]()
Medium colour. The nose is just a little alcoholic at the top over pretty, spicy red cherry and occasional wafts of coffee. Lovely texture but at this age the ‘puppy-fat’ has faded and the acidity is now more to the fore – the overall effect is now ‘only just ripe’. Cool red, tart cherry-fruit remains at the core and the finish is quite long. Just a little gawky now, but there are a few in the cellar for another day.
Rebuy – Maybe
Degustation
jean grivot 1996 clos de vougeot

I admit that I rather fell out with the wines from this domaine following the release of the 1997 and 1998 vintages, wines with hair-raising tannins and little redeeming features to balance – or at least to stake a case for patience – but the 1995’s and 1996’s I always loved. A handy half-bottle provides the opportunity for a status report – given the performance I’m sure my Richebourgs will not be touched before their 20th anniversary…
1996 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot![]()
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – with fading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.
Rebuy – Yes
christophe pacalet 2006 chiroubles
2006 Christophe Pacalet, Chiroubles![]()
Medium-plus cherry-red. Beaujolais aromatics, but in the best sense – fruity but with a serious and quite dense core. Soft velvet across the tongue. Raised red fruits – a little plum – perfect acidity and a slightly savoury edge to the fruit-driven finish. Very tasty wine – of which I drank a little more than my usual share…
Rebuy – Yes
The thing about bottles like this is that they are only one thrid the price of most well-known producers’ villages wines from the Côtes – it’s clearly not pinot noir – at least it bears no relation at this age, but I’m seriously(-ish) considering whether I should replace a portion of my drinking (20%?) with BJ, I’d save plenty of cash…
2006 chambolle-musigny from arlaud and lignier-michelot

Chambolle still has many nice wines in 2006, but at the villages level, there is clearly not the density to be found from the 2005 vintage. That said, I continue to buy a number of tasty, balanced wines – one of these two made it into the basket, the other not.
I literally found this terrible on opening – an already open Potel-Aviron 05 Morgon Côte du Py was so much better on every level (at about 30% of the price) – a little (actually a lot of) patience helped considerably!
2006 Arlaud, Chambolle-Musigny![]()
The colour is more red than cherry or purple. The first sniff did not impress – no focus, dirty oak, no fruit, in fact soupy. The flavours were not dissimilar, no chambolle, just sweet soupy oak – yuk! I try to be fair, so stoppered it up and left it in the refridgerator for 2 days: The nose has transformed; red fruit melded to caramel and a faint note of brioche. In the mouth there is also a tightening, some fat and more red fruit. A reasonable extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate though the acidity needs a little more focus. If you have this, make sure you decant a few hours before or bury it in your cellar – either way it’s hard work!
Rebuy – No
2006 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes![]()
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Right from the start the nose is wide width an impressive depth of dark fruit – few higher tones but some complexity lower down. Less fat than the Arlaud, but more focus from fine acidity. Lithe, with nice concentration and just a twist of slightly astringent, bitter-chocolate tannin. The flavour profile is good and long-lasting. Tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes
And finally:
2006 roulot bourgogne aligoté
2006 Roulot, Bourgogne Aligoté![]()
Maybe it was because I was just back from a 10 mile run, but this is/was a wonderfully refreshing drink. Soft and high-toned. Perfect balance and reasonably concentrated in the mouth – the acidity plays wonderfully across the tongue. On the negative side it’s rather simple for its price-tag – I think all the Roulot Bourgognes are priced above their quality level now, at least from European retailers – but it is a super summer drink.
Rebuy – Yes
guy breton morgon p’tit max 2005
marchand-grillot gevrey champerrier vignes centenaire 2005

This villages wine costs the same as the producer’s premier crus – why? – the words ‘vignes centenaire’ give the game away…
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier![]()
Medium, medium-plus colour. A somehow silky nose the starts with chocolate then higher-toned herbal aromatics over a tight red-fruit core. Good fat in the mouth and fine texture, the acidity works very well but there’s just a little spritz (which stayed for the whole 3 hours it was open) which gave the faint tannins a little extra texture. Persistent flavour – this really is a superb villages wine, less complex but currently more enveloping than the producer’s premier crus. Expensive but super.
Rebuy – Yes
Anyone care to suggest a list of wines made from 100 year-old (plus!) vines for a grand tasting in 2025?
marchand-grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Jouise 2005
Having enjoyed the 2005’s from this producer I bought a few more including a couple of little seen village lieu-dits. I expect tomorrow’s to be a little more special, though this is not bad either:
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Jouise![]()
A rarely seen villages name on this label. The colour is rather deep, as is the nose; dark, very faintly oaky cherry with a width of higher tones, as it warms there’s a latent hint of undergrowth. Poised, super acidity and a lingering, mouthwatering finish. There’s not the impact or intensity of the higher M-G wines, but this is a fine villages. So-far, up and down the range I’m very impressed by this producer – but okay, it’s ‘only’ the 2005 vintage…
Rebuy – Yes
remoissenet 2005 morey 1er clos des ormes

Obviously made in quite a reduced style – so open an hour before drinking or dunk the contents of your bottle into the decanter.
2005 Remoissenet, Morey St.Denis 1er Clos des Ormes![]()
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather deep, showing macerating dark-skinned cherry and just the faintest of dark oak is perfectly melded to it. After 10 minutes it smelled quite reduced, but another 10 minutes on it was clear. In the mouth there’s deep fruit and of understated intensity too – again the last accent is dark oak, but it’s not much and it’s a young wine. The acidity is good, and frankly the only negative is the slight spritz for the first 30 minutes it was open – after that it got better and better. The tannin is buried and the length is very good. I remember it not being not so cheap, but the quality is self evident. Leave a year+ to reduce that oak flavour…
Rebuy – Yes
