Vintage 2014

getting ready for the harvest blastoff….

By billn on September 08, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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A few more from the weekend…

The outriders this week will be the Mâconnais – they will will probably be first in the vines. Later this week, probably from Wednesday onwards, the first of the Côte de Beaune whites will be harvested, though a significant proportion of that will also wait for the weekend or even Monday. Reds will really start from Monday onwards, for 10 days, or even more. Chablis will also largely harvest between 15-20th September – so it looks like I’ll be too busing in Beaune to pay them a visit…

The weather changed last week in the Côtes; July and August were cool and often wet, but almost always with a steady (cold feeling!) breeze – this wind has been reason we’ve seen no rot, only an occasional bout of oïdium in the whites. Last week the breeze stopped and the sun shone – Friday was a perfect 28°C day and so was the weekend that followed. The threat of botrytis still lies within every bunch – but only of we suddenly get rain together with high temperatures. We are currently set fair for the next week, though with temperatures more modestly around 22°C. It looks like we should do well – though triage will be taxing for the hail-hit vines…

I’ll be making daily harvest reports from Monday 15th, here – naturally 😉

Last Friday in the Côtes:

côtes de nuits yesterday…

By billn on July 17, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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I simply love this line, arcade, procession, avenue of trees on the Quai Dumorey in Nuits St.Georges. I guess I’m lucky I don’t have such ‘cherry-picker’ equipment at home – otherwise I’d spend my life pruning and then lying back, thinking I’d missed a bit:

Just to show that even the most hideously expensive domaines don’t always get the quantity of spray just right – no-matter how green, bio, biodynamic, Demeter they may be! Madame B-L’s Richebourg:

Also, just to show that not everyone is suffering with yields! – Again in Richebourg:
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sober, sombre reflection…

By billn on June 30, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

To take stock, it’s always better to take a step back – emotions can be raw in the first minutes / hours after such an attack.

My experience of the hail on Saturday was in the Place Carnot in Beaune. It started at 17h10 with heavy rain – then for 3-4 minutes there was hail too – big enough pellets to hurt, but modestly sized – say 1+cm in diameter. Of-course, it turned-out that was only the first wave. Fifteen minutes later it hit again, but this time the first notice was the hail, not rain, and this time the projectiles were the size of a 2 Euro coin – they can also damage your body as you can see below – the clusters on many vines had no chance.

It was a broad and prolonged attack – this year from Chagny all the way to Gevrey-Chambertin – but, once-more, it was that area from Meursault to Savigny that was most cruelly affected. The much vaunted ‘hail defence’ system was lit in Volnay 3 hours prior to the well-forecast storm-front, it was no defence in this case. To-date, the Mâconnais, Chalonnaise and Chablis rest largely untouched.

I received the following email from a grower, in Volnay, yesterday evening:

I found my email written July 23, 2013: Today, I can make a “copy and paste” because yesterday, June 28 2014, was once-more devastated by hail:

Just a little word of collective thanks for all the many people who bring us comfort by email or phone. And yes, this is the shit, we were again hit by hail on Saturday 28 June at 17:00. The most damaged vines are those of Pommard: Epenots, Rugiens, Clos Micault between 50 and 80%, Pézerolles 80-100%. In Volnay we are damaged between 40 and 80% – that’s my current estimate.

It is hard to take because we had this situation in 2001, 2004, 2012 and 2013. It is all the more disheartening because we had worked well, the vines were beautiful and indicated a normal harvest. All the green work was completed and the team was ready for the holidays.

We will reign-in all investments and business travel – everything that is not strictly necessary for our Domaine. As I am “an old fart” (a joke between my dad and me), I have no debt to repay or more cumbersome investments. So the goal is to preserve the financial equilibrium of the operation and eventually the dynamism.

Thank you all for your moral support and the awareness that we are surrounded by family, friends and clients.

Indeed, until the weather-front made its attack, the vines and clusters looked picture-perfect. Some growers were openly opining on the maximum that they would be allowed to declare at harvest – roughly 50 hl/ha for villages – very few will now need to make the calculations. The southern part of the Côte de Beaune was a little less damaged, likewise the Côte de Nuits – but there were also hailstones of 2-4cm diameter in Vosne-Romanée – the Clos de Vougeot and Romanée St.Vivant lost up to 25%, maybe more in Echézeaux. Much of the rest of Vosne lost more like 15%. We also shouldn’t forget; the hail hit in June, July AND August in 2012…

Three hours after the hail hit, was the ‘Elegance de Volnay’ dinner and celebration of the appellation. It began in subdued fashion, but in the end, the vignerons began pouring their bottles saying “Drink now – we might not have any wine in a couple of years…”

Another view from Scott Paul and Amanda Regan.

With thanks to Thomas Bouley, Vincent Latour, Anne Parent and Nicolas Rossignol for the following images:

a few tweets and links of interest…

By billn on June 18, 2014 #harvests#other sites#the market#vintage 2014

First, Clive on 2004 – I feel my wrists being slapped…! 😉

Second, one wonders why he was able to accumulate so much – but hey – it’s just another profit…

Third, what really is this UNESCO thing?

very warm in the côtes…

By billn on June 10, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

The positive side to that is that flowering is, in the main, completed.

It is a good ‘set’ this year, so the vigneron(ne)s at least retain the possibility for a good harvest volume in 2014. The last great vintage ending in a 4 was 1964 – let’s hope that the 50th anniversary of that, is one to remember!

Of-course the negative side to this warm, muggy, weather is the incidence of storms. Many places have been hard-hit in France in the last 36 hours – parts of Bordeaux badly hailed again. Tonight in Chablis we had a threatening-looking sky, and even the odd thunder-clap, but as Tuesday ends – that’s the most of it.

As far as today is concerned, I have mainly been drinking Irancy!

one eye on the sky…

By billn on May 29, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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The vines in Chablis don’t have quite the same level of development, even in the Grand Crus (right, Les Clos yesterday), but in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits we are seeing more and more flowering in the vineyards.

The weather is currently a coolish 16-22°C – perfect for jogging! – and there’s some breeze too, but despite occasional threatening, moody cloud it’s remaining mainly dry here (so far) this week.

Chablis, by contrast, had some short, sharp bursts of rain yesterday afternoon – lucky for them that they’ve no flowers to perturb!

Many are the vigneron(ne)s keeping one eye on the sky, and for the next couple of weeks…

the first flowers of 2014…

By billn on May 21, 2014 #harvests#travel pics#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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Some of the first, anyway!

Once a week, the breakfast at Hotel Montrachet is my treat. Today, on the way back to Beaune, Clouseau-like, I poked around a few vineyards with my camera – today Puligny La Garenne and Meursault Les Perrières. In general the chardonnay of the Côte de Beaune seems a little in advance of the pinot noir, likewise, find a a nice big south-facing wall and those vines that nestle against it – facing south – are even further in advance. Here you will find an occasional vine that is already flowering. It’s an outrider If you like, but my first sight…

Just outside the south-facing wall of the Clos des Perrières:

A little more Meursault Perrières:

A few pics from Puligny Garenne too:

on the subject of ‘normality’

By billn on May 20, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

The vines are settling into a more ‘normal’ rhythm too.

Following the warm March and April, it’s certainly been much cooler since then; consequently, the vines have slowed down their rate of growth – they are still a little ahead of the average, but not 3-4 weeks in advance of it like 1 month ago.

Burgundians (with holiday plans!) are now happier to be penciling-in mid-September as a more-likely harvest-time – versus late August only 1 month ago. Of-course it goes without saying that all are praying calm and dry conditions as soon as the flowers open…

A little tour, in and around Beaune today:

Burgundy Report

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