Harvests

mark’s harvest: 14+15 sept…

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on September 15, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

Bonjour! Tres fantastic day – wow the weather, phew what a scorcher and the grape quality and quantity ? Maybe the best in quality terms I’ve ever seen at Arlaud and Cyprien’s quietly happy I think.

Arrived 16.00 hrs Sunday so had a quick photo session between the Aralud cuverie and the village accommodation. Got talking firstly to Regis Forey and crew in Morey village and then, later, Pierre Amiot and gang in Gevrey 1er Combottes.

Didnt take any this afternoon as we spent most of it (until 17.00 hrs) in Morey village below the RN 74 where the grapes, in my rows at least were just amazing – 2009 all over again ?

For the record today we did, in order :-
Morey 1er Millandes (just by Odoul-Coquard)
Morey ‘Clos Solon’ – Cyprien has bottled it as Clos Solon since 2012 – I want some !!!
Charmes-Chambertin (the best bit, high up, across the road from Latricieres) – super grapes here as well
Lunch – grated carrot thing starter, nice pieces of pork steaks and pasta, tarte au pomme, fromage selection
Morey Village as above
Gevrey 1er Combottes – started at 17.00 hrs – to finish.

Sunday:

Monday. First 3 pics are just scenes . Next three are grape shots from a plot just up-slope very close to the cemetery wall in Rue Tres Girard:

Burgundy Harvest 15 September 2014…

By billn on September 15, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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A perfect pic by Caroline l’Estimé of Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets today.

Typically, for my first day ‘on the job,’ today there are no grapes at the home domaine!

They started with Volnay Lurets yesterday, harvested under the same benign 22°C and sunshine as we’ve enjoyed for about a week – the weather is set fair for the rest of this week too. One thing I’ve noticed today, though, is a strong acetic waft and lots of small fruit flies when you pass many open (producer) doors. Chilled delivery vans are worth their weight in gold this vintage!

Whilst yields are miserly, I’ve heard nothing but good news from those that have harvested their hailed vineyards – the vibrating tables seem to be taking away all that is dried out, and in the few vineyards in Beaune and Volnay already harvested, there is no rot to worry about – the hail made sure of that – so triage has been very simple. Triage has been harder in Meursault (for those that didn’t machine pick!) with as much as 40% of the crop rejected, but the grapes that remain are delivering smiles all-round.

Finally, for avid students of the vintage, the harvest newsletters of Domaine de la Vougeraie are now online, here.

harvest 2014 – wednesday 10th sept…

By billn on September 12, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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The last bottles in Switzerland with Team NZ; who are now safely awaiting the first grapes in Beaune.

I made a bit of a booboo on Wednesday afternoon.

I took some really brilliant pictures of the few harvesters who were busying themselves, mainly around Meursault – so much-so that I couldn’t wait to review them – OOPS – the SD card from my camera was still in my laptop. No pics! Dumb, dumb, dumb…

I snapped a few with my phone afterwards, but…

Anyway… Virtually nobody in Volnay and Pommard on Wednesday afternoon – actually one lot in each. Meursault seemed the main focus, though that was also eerily free of white vans. Lafon and Roulot had been in the vines – Meursault Perrières, mainly. Also, of the half-dozen teams who were harvesting, were two harvesting machines, and both were in the 1er Crus! There are producers who, faced with not so brilliant grapes (don’t forget that Meursault was also hailed), would rather harvest by machine than pay for pickers. Although white grapes tolerate machine much better than reds, this might suggest larger quality gaps then usual between the best producers and the others…

Yesterday (Thursday) there were more people in the vines but not massively more than the day before. Temperatures were 4-5°C cooler, but still dry and sunny with about 22° in the afternoon. I left Burgundy in the afternoon, but will be back for triage, first thing on Monday morning. Daily reports will, of-course, follow.

the contenders start their harvests…

By billn on September 10, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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Almost, but not quite, the last of the bottles drunk with Team NZ in Switzerland.

Jasper has a few of the starters:

Amongst others, also starting Wednesday (today!) is Jean-Marc Roulot and Vougeraie in their white grand crus.
Thursday there’s Domaine des Croix and Dubreuil-Fontaine
Friday it’s JF Fichet, Benjamin Leroux (whites) + + +
Domaine Dublère and Camille Giroud start at the weekend and Bonneau du Martray next week, as do the first of the Côte de Nuits – but some of those Côte de Nuits domaines have no plans to start before the 20th.

There’s been a little rain yesterday and overnight, but the sun is out this afternoon – let’s hope there’s nothing to cajoule the botrytis into action!

getting ready for the harvest blastoff….

By billn on September 08, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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A few more from the weekend…

The outriders this week will be the Mâconnais – they will will probably be first in the vines. Later this week, probably from Wednesday onwards, the first of the Côte de Beaune whites will be harvested, though a significant proportion of that will also wait for the weekend or even Monday. Reds will really start from Monday onwards, for 10 days, or even more. Chablis will also largely harvest between 15-20th September – so it looks like I’ll be too busing in Beaune to pay them a visit…

The weather changed last week in the Côtes; July and August were cool and often wet, but almost always with a steady (cold feeling!) breeze – this wind has been reason we’ve seen no rot, only an occasional bout of oïdium in the whites. Last week the breeze stopped and the sun shone – Friday was a perfect 28°C day and so was the weekend that followed. The threat of botrytis still lies within every bunch – but only of we suddenly get rain together with high temperatures. We are currently set fair for the next week, though with temperatures more modestly around 22°C. It looks like we should do well – though triage will be taxing for the hail-hit vines…

I’ll be making daily harvest reports from Monday 15th, here – naturally 😉

Last Friday in the Côtes:

côtes de nuits yesterday…

By billn on July 17, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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I simply love this line, arcade, procession, avenue of trees on the Quai Dumorey in Nuits St.Georges. I guess I’m lucky I don’t have such ‘cherry-picker’ equipment at home – otherwise I’d spend my life pruning and then lying back, thinking I’d missed a bit:

Just to show that even the most hideously expensive domaines don’t always get the quantity of spray just right – no-matter how green, bio, biodynamic, Demeter they may be! Madame B-L’s Richebourg:

Also, just to show that not everyone is suffering with yields! – Again in Richebourg:
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sober, sombre reflection…

By billn on June 30, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

To take stock, it’s always better to take a step back – emotions can be raw in the first minutes / hours after such an attack.

My experience of the hail on Saturday was in the Place Carnot in Beaune. It started at 17h10 with heavy rain – then for 3-4 minutes there was hail too – big enough pellets to hurt, but modestly sized – say 1+cm in diameter. Of-course, it turned-out that was only the first wave. Fifteen minutes later it hit again, but this time the first notice was the hail, not rain, and this time the projectiles were the size of a 2 Euro coin – they can also damage your body as you can see below – the clusters on many vines had no chance.

It was a broad and prolonged attack – this year from Chagny all the way to Gevrey-Chambertin – but, once-more, it was that area from Meursault to Savigny that was most cruelly affected. The much vaunted ‘hail defence’ system was lit in Volnay 3 hours prior to the well-forecast storm-front, it was no defence in this case. To-date, the Mâconnais, Chalonnaise and Chablis rest largely untouched.

I received the following email from a grower, in Volnay, yesterday evening:

I found my email written July 23, 2013: Today, I can make a “copy and paste” because yesterday, June 28 2014, was once-more devastated by hail:

Just a little word of collective thanks for all the many people who bring us comfort by email or phone. And yes, this is the shit, we were again hit by hail on Saturday 28 June at 17:00. The most damaged vines are those of Pommard: Epenots, Rugiens, Clos Micault between 50 and 80%, Pézerolles 80-100%. In Volnay we are damaged between 40 and 80% – that’s my current estimate.

It is hard to take because we had this situation in 2001, 2004, 2012 and 2013. It is all the more disheartening because we had worked well, the vines were beautiful and indicated a normal harvest. All the green work was completed and the team was ready for the holidays.

We will reign-in all investments and business travel – everything that is not strictly necessary for our Domaine. As I am “an old fart” (a joke between my dad and me), I have no debt to repay or more cumbersome investments. So the goal is to preserve the financial equilibrium of the operation and eventually the dynamism.

Thank you all for your moral support and the awareness that we are surrounded by family, friends and clients.

Indeed, until the weather-front made its attack, the vines and clusters looked picture-perfect. Some growers were openly opining on the maximum that they would be allowed to declare at harvest – roughly 50 hl/ha for villages – very few will now need to make the calculations. The southern part of the Côte de Beaune was a little less damaged, likewise the Côte de Nuits – but there were also hailstones of 2-4cm diameter in Vosne-Romanée – the Clos de Vougeot and Romanée St.Vivant lost up to 25%, maybe more in Echézeaux. Much of the rest of Vosne lost more like 15%. We also shouldn’t forget; the hail hit in June, July AND August in 2012…

Three hours after the hail hit, was the ‘Elegance de Volnay’ dinner and celebration of the appellation. It began in subdued fashion, but in the end, the vignerons began pouring their bottles saying “Drink now – we might not have any wine in a couple of years…”

Another view from Scott Paul and Amanda Regan.

With thanks to Thomas Bouley, Vincent Latour, Anne Parent and Nicolas Rossignol for the following images:

a few tweets and links of interest…

By billn on June 18, 2014 #harvests#other sites#the market#vintage 2014

First, Clive on 2004 – I feel my wrists being slapped…! 😉

Second, one wonders why he was able to accumulate so much – but hey – it’s just another profit…

Third, what really is this UNESCO thing?

Burgundy Report

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