Harvests

côtes de nuits yesterday…

By billn on July 17, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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I simply love this line, arcade, procession, avenue of trees on the Quai Dumorey in Nuits St.Georges. I guess I’m lucky I don’t have such ‘cherry-picker’ equipment at home – otherwise I’d spend my life pruning and then lying back, thinking I’d missed a bit:

Just to show that even the most hideously expensive domaines don’t always get the quantity of spray just right – no-matter how green, bio, biodynamic, Demeter they may be! Madame B-L’s Richebourg:

Also, just to show that not everyone is suffering with yields! – Again in Richebourg:
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sober, sombre reflection…

By billn on June 30, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

To take stock, it’s always better to take a step back – emotions can be raw in the first minutes / hours after such an attack.

My experience of the hail on Saturday was in the Place Carnot in Beaune. It started at 17h10 with heavy rain – then for 3-4 minutes there was hail too – big enough pellets to hurt, but modestly sized – say 1+cm in diameter. Of-course, it turned-out that was only the first wave. Fifteen minutes later it hit again, but this time the first notice was the hail, not rain, and this time the projectiles were the size of a 2 Euro coin – they can also damage your body as you can see below – the clusters on many vines had no chance.

It was a broad and prolonged attack – this year from Chagny all the way to Gevrey-Chambertin – but, once-more, it was that area from Meursault to Savigny that was most cruelly affected. The much vaunted ‘hail defence’ system was lit in Volnay 3 hours prior to the well-forecast storm-front, it was no defence in this case. To-date, the Mâconnais, Chalonnaise and Chablis rest largely untouched.

I received the following email from a grower, in Volnay, yesterday evening:

I found my email written July 23, 2013: Today, I can make a “copy and paste” because yesterday, June 28 2014, was once-more devastated by hail:

Just a little word of collective thanks for all the many people who bring us comfort by email or phone. And yes, this is the shit, we were again hit by hail on Saturday 28 June at 17:00. The most damaged vines are those of Pommard: Epenots, Rugiens, Clos Micault between 50 and 80%, Pézerolles 80-100%. In Volnay we are damaged between 40 and 80% – that’s my current estimate.

It is hard to take because we had this situation in 2001, 2004, 2012 and 2013. It is all the more disheartening because we had worked well, the vines were beautiful and indicated a normal harvest. All the green work was completed and the team was ready for the holidays.

We will reign-in all investments and business travel – everything that is not strictly necessary for our Domaine. As I am “an old fart” (a joke between my dad and me), I have no debt to repay or more cumbersome investments. So the goal is to preserve the financial equilibrium of the operation and eventually the dynamism.

Thank you all for your moral support and the awareness that we are surrounded by family, friends and clients.

Indeed, until the weather-front made its attack, the vines and clusters looked picture-perfect. Some growers were openly opining on the maximum that they would be allowed to declare at harvest – roughly 50 hl/ha for villages – very few will now need to make the calculations. The southern part of the Côte de Beaune was a little less damaged, likewise the Côte de Nuits – but there were also hailstones of 2-4cm diameter in Vosne-Romanée – the Clos de Vougeot and Romanée St.Vivant lost up to 25%, maybe more in Echézeaux. Much of the rest of Vosne lost more like 15%. We also shouldn’t forget; the hail hit in June, July AND August in 2012…

Three hours after the hail hit, was the ‘Elegance de Volnay’ dinner and celebration of the appellation. It began in subdued fashion, but in the end, the vignerons began pouring their bottles saying “Drink now – we might not have any wine in a couple of years…”

Another view from Scott Paul and Amanda Regan.

With thanks to Thomas Bouley, Vincent Latour, Anne Parent and Nicolas Rossignol for the following images:

a few tweets and links of interest…

By billn on June 18, 2014 #harvests#other sites#the market#vintage 2014

First, Clive on 2004 – I feel my wrists being slapped…! 😉

Second, one wonders why he was able to accumulate so much – but hey – it’s just another profit…

Third, what really is this UNESCO thing?

very warm in the côtes…

By billn on June 10, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

The positive side to that is that flowering is, in the main, completed.

It is a good ‘set’ this year, so the vigneron(ne)s at least retain the possibility for a good harvest volume in 2014. The last great vintage ending in a 4 was 1964 – let’s hope that the 50th anniversary of that, is one to remember!

Of-course the negative side to this warm, muggy, weather is the incidence of storms. Many places have been hard-hit in France in the last 36 hours – parts of Bordeaux badly hailed again. Tonight in Chablis we had a threatening-looking sky, and even the odd thunder-clap, but as Tuesday ends – that’s the most of it.

As far as today is concerned, I have mainly been drinking Irancy!

one eye on the sky…

By billn on May 29, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

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The vines in Chablis don’t have quite the same level of development, even in the Grand Crus (right, Les Clos yesterday), but in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits we are seeing more and more flowering in the vineyards.

The weather is currently a coolish 16-22°C – perfect for jogging! – and there’s some breeze too, but despite occasional threatening, moody cloud it’s remaining mainly dry here (so far) this week.

Chablis, by contrast, had some short, sharp bursts of rain yesterday afternoon – lucky for them that they’ve no flowers to perturb!

Many are the vigneron(ne)s keeping one eye on the sky, and for the next couple of weeks…

the first flowers of 2014…

By billn on May 21, 2014 #harvests#travel pics#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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Some of the first, anyway!

Once a week, the breakfast at Hotel Montrachet is my treat. Today, on the way back to Beaune, Clouseau-like, I poked around a few vineyards with my camera – today Puligny La Garenne and Meursault Les Perrières. In general the chardonnay of the Côte de Beaune seems a little in advance of the pinot noir, likewise, find a a nice big south-facing wall and those vines that nestle against it – facing south – are even further in advance. Here you will find an occasional vine that is already flowering. It’s an outrider If you like, but my first sight…

Just outside the south-facing wall of the Clos des Perrières:

A little more Meursault Perrières:

A few pics from Puligny Garenne too:

on the subject of ‘normality’

By billn on May 20, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

The vines are settling into a more ‘normal’ rhythm too.

Following the warm March and April, it’s certainly been much cooler since then; consequently, the vines have slowed down their rate of growth – they are still a little ahead of the average, but not 3-4 weeks in advance of it like 1 month ago.

Burgundians (with holiday plans!) are now happier to be penciling-in mid-September as a more-likely harvest-time – versus late August only 1 month ago. Of-course it goes without saying that all are praying calm and dry conditions as soon as the flowers open…

A little tour, in and around Beaune today:

chablis 2014 – to heat, or not to heat

By billn on April 16, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

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There were many producers holding their breath last night, and will probably be doing the same tonight – it reached -2.2°C at 05h30 this morning.

The fact that it is dry gives a little more latitude, so the vines can better resist the cold, but still at -3°C the new leaves and shoots on those vines will be damaged. If the vineyard was more damp, they can really only tolerate -1.5°C! The forecast is for similar tonight. Apparently two nights last week were also equally worrisome.

It’s actually unusually dry in the vineyards, in one of the pictures below, you can see the workers of William Fevre having to water the new vines they planted last week in Grand Cru Preuses – otherwise they would die – pretty-much unheard of in April. On the other hand, lucky for them that they didn’t yet have to heat the vineyards or spray water to protect the vines. Spraying water is a double-edged sword; it’s effective, but once you start spraying you may have to do it more often…

sun, ski and amiot’s 2006 morey les ruchots

By billn on April 10, 2014 #degustation#picture gallery#vintage 2014

Hard to believe, but the lull here was due to skiing, curtailed today by too much snow! Back home this afternoon, it was 22°C in the garden, no-wonder:

But following my evening jog – replacing one kind of (leg) ache with another – time for a little MSD 1er Cru action!

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2006 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Rochots
Medium, medium-plus colour. It starts modestly, but it’s still a nose to sink into; a classic Morey nose of herbs, backed with dark fruit and maybe a little blood-iron for good measure too. Just an ounce of padding below the silky texture and flavours that are detailed, fresh and focused. Not a powerful wine this – you will find a number of villages wines with the same heft – but long and very interesting. And note, it costs less than most ‘name’ Vosne villages these days! Very tasty!
Rebuy – Yes

And a little Austrian action too:

Burgundy Report

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