Hopefully this will be fun and at the same time informative. Roving reporters from domaines and harvest teams giving you the realtime news.
Cheers, Bill
Harvests
Closing the door on 2003
So it’s 7:15pm on the 24th September, looking west past the cross on the corner of Romanée Saint-Vivant the sun is already gone. You need something against the chill – it’s about 12°C with a sneaky breeze.
Despite all the vineyards around being harvested many days ago, there are so many grapes in the DRC vineyards that are still hanging – but they are for the birds!
The grapes appear more homogenous than 12 days ago when still there were many green bunches. I’m sure there could be a decent cuvée made from this lot, but these days your not allowed to pick your own – though the grapes from Romanée-Conti did tast rather nice!
Speaking with Etienne de Montille yesterday (who spoke with Aubert de Villaine on Saturday) DRC left something like 20% of the fruit on the vine after taking only that which was perfectly ripe. Doing a quick calculation based on the size of La Tâche, a rough €500 estimate per bottle and an even rougher 35hl/ha average yield, that’s close to 1 million Euro left on the vines – now that’s what you call commitment to quality! Also gives a hint to why it costs what it does.
Sacrifice in Romanée-Conti
Plenty of domaines harvested in August but some left it until September.
By the 12th 99% of the producers have finished, but for the Grand Cru’s of Vosne-Romanée, most still have lots of fruit on the vine, plenty also on the floor – as above in Romanée-Conti.
The yields were pitiful with 2-3 small bunches per vine – and yet still whole bunches were sacrificed in the ‘nameplate’ vineyards.
The Heat of 2003
Looking across La Tâche 25.07.2003
Already two months of close to 40°C and another month of the same still to endure – praying for a little rain?
Still it’s a little cooler as we start September, but most vineyards are already cleared.
It seems that some vineyards have problems; the increasing sugars and decreasing acidity are usually a sign to begin harvesting – but the phenolics were still unripe. Many still harvested as they believed that no acidity would be left.
It will be – for sure – a fascinating vintage and certainly one to remember, though, despite the skills to be found in many domaines (where doubtless some superb wines will appear) I expect this to be a very heterogenous millesime . . . . .