Tasted in Juliénas with Jean-Philippe Granger & Cyrielle Rizzo of Jean Loron, 16 May 2024.
Domaine Pascal & Jean-Philippe Granger
Les Poupets
69840 Juliénas
Tel: +33 4 74 04 44 79
www.cavespascalgranger.com
Domaine Instagram
Jean-Philippe Granger is the current (latest!) generation of the Granger family – generation 5 – running this 21-hectare domaine.
The estate’s vines are mainly in Juliénas but also include parcels of Chénas, Moulin-à-vent, Saint-Amour and Beaujolais-Villages blanc. There’s even a little Gamaret made from vines in Jullié
The estate has been vinifying part of its wines for over a century in the Cellier de la Vieille Église i.e. the former church in the centre of Juliénas that was deconsecrated in 1868 and belongs to the Loron family. It was the Lorons who transformed this old church into a tourist attraction and wine-elevage cellar for their winegrowers i.e. the Grangers. The Grangers are multi-generational metayeurs for the Lorons and it was at Loron that I first met their Juliénas Clos Des Poulettes – a wine that I particularly love in most vintages – but the production and producers are here.
For this first visit, we concentrated on just the Clos des Poulettes in the old church – tasting the Loron-labelled wines (who had made the introduction to Jean-Philippe for me) – next time I’ll visit at the Granger domaine and look at their wider range.
Jean-Philippe on his recent vintages:
“I’d honestly say that since 2015 we’ve only had good vintages – of course, 2021 was more traditionally fresh in style but still good. But we have to be very happy with 2022.”
The wines…
A wine that I have long loved – I tried to buy a case (of 12!) way back in the 2017 vintage but my order was lost. Rather than keep trying (a shame I didn’t!) it just became a running joke each time that I visited Loron! Here seems to a very good address too and I look forward to future visits…
Juliénas Clos des Poulettes, a 1.6 hectare parcel almost in the centre of Juliénas near the church – predominantly on a soil with lots of bluestone. The vinification is quite traditional for here: whole bunches in cement vats for 8 to 12 days, today with some temperature control. Right now there’s only 900 bottles of the total production (under the Granger label – there’s more at Loron) as a part of the plot is currently being replanted:
2022 Domaine de la Vieux Eglise (Loron), Juliénas
Fresh, almost a bit of pepperiness. Mouthfilling with energy and a tiny grain of tannin – becoming very juicy. Graphite and licorice in the finishing flavour…
2022 Domaine de Vieille Eglise, Juliénas Clos de la Poulette
Larger scale of aroma and there’s more complexity visible here too – if a bit less energy. Fresh, fluid, I love the energy on the palate. Slowly mouth-watering, tannin but not grainy or drying in this finish – lovely energy again.
Extra width and a more seamless style of complexity – very finely presented development. Extra sweetness but superbly fluid – that’s really great in the mouth. You sense the oak today more than in the 2022 but what a great wine!
Still not transparent – such is the depth of colour. Darker, warm spice and redder fruit with a little smoke. The same fluidity as the previous wines with a more visible grain to the tannin but no dryness and a floral perfume in the finishing flavour. That’s another great wine today – I may prefer the 2020 (today!) but this is great too.