Tasted with Eric Forest, 30 May 2024 in Vergisson.
Domaine Eric Forest
Le Martelet
71960 Vergisson
Tel: +33 6 22 414 255
www.ericforest.fr
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More reports with Eric Forest.
Eric on 2023:
“The malos are just about finished – so there’s plenty of gas in the wines but that’s a good thing. From an economic viewpoint the volume was very good but I try not to judge the wines before bottling – perhaps they could have a bit more acidity – but let’s see.”
Eric on 2022:
“In July the harvest looked great – In August it was going downhill fast as all was so dry – but we had a storm mid-august with 25mm and then some days later another 15mm – those rains saved our vintage. All are bottled now and there’s clearly no lack of energy so I hope the 23s might turn out the same. 18 and 20 had the same volume but 22 was about 20% more as some other parcels started producing – we won’t talk about 21 volumes which was a hard year to work with much rethinking of my objectives: I chose to reduce the volume of wine I produced – the extra 20% was in the cru parcels ! It was anyway a help because for 4-5 years it had been very hard to find engaged, interested co-workers… Harvesting was 31 Aug – 09 Sept – with a small team of pickers – my vision of great wines are those that are made from ripe grapes…”
The wines….
Not just delicious wines, Eric has some great cuvées too – they are worth a special search to find. The top cuvées were a little oaky on this visit – just give them another 2-3 years if that’s not your thing…
2022 Bourgogne
On the limit of Pouilly-Fuissé in Vergisson, originally planted by Eric’s grandfather for personal consumption – a mix of pinot and gamay that struggled to ripen. Pulled out in 2012 and replanted with chardonnay in 2017 – ‘They still struggle to ripen at this stage – maybe 12.5° – but is augmented by the ‘vin de presse’ from PF and SV and the customers seem to really like it. Sold for the price of a Mâcon.’
Pretty, vibrant mineral/citrus complexity – that’s very inviting. Lovely in the mouth – we have the tension and a vibration of juicy fruit – almost a hint of strict austerity in this finishing, faintly citrus skin finish. I love it – but don’t forget, it’s strict!
And les Whites:
2022 St.Veran La Renommée
From the climat Côte Rôtie; bottom of the hill, plain south facing. ‘There is more ‘active’ limestone here than most of the Mâconnais’
There’s more citrus skin depth to this aroma. Vibrantly energetic but more cushioned and ripe – but still electric energy in the middle and finishing. There’s a hint of oak in the middle and finishing flavours too but you can forget it if you wait 2 years… Big, vibrant and energising wine…
The middle of the PF appellation – but here used to be pastures and cows so not included in the AOC.
Here’s a width of aroma, almost with a little generosity. More melting and fluid with a fruit and acidity that resembles the juice of mandarin fruit. A wine that seems a little shorter in the finish but it’s the one that I want to drink – a great Mâcon !!
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Ame Forest‘
The cuvée referring to André, Michel and Eric – the first three generations of the domaine. 4 different old-vine terroirs assembled: one planted in 1952 the others in 1960s. East and north-facing – ‘in theory cooler places though you wouldn’t know in the last few years. In 2007 I was separating every single parcel but I had wines everywhere and it was not easy to commercialise the small parcels, so I made this blend.’
A more textural, faintly grained complexity – very faintly mineral and floral. Reall open, really wide, intense, silky, some finishing oakiness – a very open wine, more obviously mineral in this finish.
2022 Mâcon-Pierreclos Le Clos des Charmes
First vintage in 2019 – 1.5 ha monopole, 60% of the vines are over 90 years old, 30% from 1992 and 10% replanted in the last 2 years. A steep, plain-south-facing and the soil is hard with marne and clay but the limestone rock is very near the surface. ‘It was conventionally treated for at least 25 years so very difficult to start the working of the soil – I have great hopes for this.’
High toned, a rather zesty aromatic impression – almost textural. Great intensity again, so vibrant. The barrel is evident – actually it’s a new small foudre – 1,500 litres. Finishing subtly but long. I like the slightly grilled and reductive elevage that these foudres bring. Returning to this wine – completely delicious but wait 2-3 years – similar vibrancy to the Mâcon-Vergisson but I slightly prefer the flavour of that wine.
From Davaye. A plateau of limestone here with 100 year-old vines that produced 30 hl/ha in 22. 70-80cm of soil then only white stones…
Here’s an attractive width of aroma – fresh, additionally faintly perfumed. Broader, ripe yellow citrus, almost golden with the added flavour dimension of the wood. Textural in this complex finish – multiple dimensions of citrus and a faint zesty texture too. That’s a great SV – bravo !!
The most impressive nose of airy fruit and mineral impressions. Hmm – not the largest in the mouth but so juicy and chiselled – clarity of flavour with the intensity that we’ve come to expect from all the previous wines. This is my new favourite – bravo !!
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Les Crays
‘There are 9.5 hectares of this and I have 2.16.’ Plain south-facing under Vergission which also protects the vines from the north wind. Different marnes, gravel, different layers. 10-20% of this is ‘declassified’ into the AME cuvée
Here’s extra width of aroma – more overt yellow citrus visible here. Also vibrant and complex – another electric wine – fading in more subtle style than la Roche – but with a marker of oak in these finishing flavours.
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé 24 Carats
Ripe golden citrus aromas with more than an accent of wood in support, indeed framing these notes – ‘Yes 100% new oak, it’s not made for drinking tonight, but I hope in 5-10 years.’ Fine scale in the mouth and very silky – only in the last part of the finish I feel a little extra tannic grain. The finish remains with quite some volume and staying power. The oak is actually quite modest in the finish – it’s more of the up-front personality of the wine – which I think a good sign.