Tasted with Jérôme Flous in Nuits St.Georges, 07 May 2024.
Domaine Faiveley
8 Rue du Tribourg
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 61 04 55
www.domaine-faiveley.com
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Jérôme on the 2023 vintage chez Faiveley:
“Yes happy. It’s variable but perfumed vintage – a vintage of pleasure I think – will it be for long ageing? Probably not but we have a few of those in recent years – a 2011-extra perhaps.”
Jérôme on the 2022 vintage:
“Both colours have a good volume – 40 hl/ha average – there was even a bit more in 2023. It was June that made the difference – we had a lot of rain that month which changed the vintage to bring more balance than, say, 2020. The Chalonnaise had less water so it was closer in style to 2020 than in the Côte d’Or… I think it’s the best Côte de Beaunes I’ve seen since I was here – ie Beaune and south – I always think of Corton! I think it a great vintage because of its balance and almost racy style. 2022 was our first vintage with 100% organic production – certification should come in 2025…”
The wines…
Jérôme signs off by saying ‘I think we worked well in 2022.’ They did indeed – there are many great wines here in 2022 – and not just for the patient !!
‘A nice monopole’ – it’s 11 hectares close to the village of Fontaines. ‘Two parcels are practically north facing that are very interesting in the hot years.’
Volume and energy to this nose, faintly spiced. In the mouth, this is lithe and mobile – beautifully textured – and there’s a small kick of creamy oak in the finishing flavours. Keep it at least 2 years for the oak to fade – but this radiates its finishing flavour wider and wider – very persistent if largely barrel-derived finishing flavour today. It will be excellent for sure – maybe even a great Framboisière…
2022 Beaune 1er Clos de l’Ecu
All you could wish to know here.
A fine width of faintly spiced – very attractive – aroma. Mouth-filling, there’s a fluidity here and a velvet texture that are so comforting – plenty of barrel again but in a slightly different style – you should wait 3-4 years in the first instance – but only for the barrel – this could be an excellent one…
The blend of all the domaine’s village parcels in Nuits – so a cuvée name that recalls the family name of someone who married into the Faiveley family. ‘Our Bordeaux-style elevage – the second vintage for this – south and northern Nuits vines.’
Hmm – that’s a lovely perfume – with some auto-suggestion of rose perfume! Extra silky, sinuous, a wine of lithe muscle and direct, frank – but also frankly delicious – flavours. That’s great but wait 5 years!
Almost 10 hectares worth in this wine – 23 different lieu-dits – a large part in Justice but the rest is mainly Gevrey from the slopes including Brochon.
What a perfume – I’d drink this tonight if the aroma is anything to go by. Weight – and such width in the depth of this flavour – really fluid again – I love it. That’s a great wine in 22 – again! Wait 5 years but the 30% new oak seems not too excessive – just a faint dryness on the tip of your tongue in the finish…
A width and freshness to this perfume – faintly spiced – as it approaches Vosne. Hmm – here is clearly extra mouth-filling volume, the finest of velour – but ultra-elegant finishing, that’s such a beautiful wine – porcelain in its combination of strength but fineness of weight – bravo!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
4 hectares – a richer more sunny location. Just 2 months in bottle.
A very different style of width combined with aromatic energy – there’s complexity too. Mouth-filling again – here with an extra salinity in the energetic, fluid flavours. Powerful but not hard – that’s going to make another enviable wine – but you should be thinking of 10-15+ years before it enters a great drinking window but that’s a wonderful wine…
All you could wish to know here.
Hmm, a more direct perfume than the width of the Cazetiers – and perfume it is! Again such a wonderful fluidity to these flavours – it’s like trying 2019s – this fluidity amply balancing impressive concentration. The barrel – 50% new and quite creamy – is strong with this one but there’s an intensity and almost zestiness to this finishing fruit flavour too – it still manages to dominate the barrel – this wine will live and be great much longer than I – wait 10 years in the first instance but there will be greatness with 25 !!
2022 Clos de Vougeot
3 parcels – of the 2 gates, one is right in the middle
A different perfume airy but deep – almost with a tobacco complexity but then flowers – really ever-changing today. Mouth-filling but calm, fresh and fluid – a faint salinity too – not for the first time today. A depth of finishing flavour, so deep and wide, it talks of the deep clays in this plot – what a great finish but what a baby too – a properly excellent CV!!
2022 Latricières-Chambertin
All you could wish to know here.
A cloud of aroma, almost smoky, so airy yet so much to find – engrossing. Mouth-filling, cooler in style – a small tannic grain too – but not drying. Almost a structural energy here – certainly a wine of architecture – and for keeping – but broad, long yet still airy finishing. What a beautiful wine that will be – one day – I wouldn’t return for 10 years – better 20 – I hope I have that chance!
Les Whites:
2022 Mercurey Clos Rochette Blanc
Monopole, also neighbouring Framboisière. The bottom of the slope is a little richer soil and it’s this part that mainly sees some barrel elevage.
Freshness but depth too – not an overt width to this aromatic. In the mouth, there’s some generosity of ripe fruit but with enough balancing energy today – faintly saline again. The salinity brings a little extra energy to this finish, almost stony…
2022 Ladoix Marne Blanches
All domaine – 3 ha – 2 lieu-dits, vines now 9 years old. ‘Less ripe but on the marne instead of the chalky stones of the last.’
Here is the width of freshness that the last wine lacked – an airy style again. Mouth-filling – fine texture even a little zesty tannin – really mouth-watering with a finish accented by some barrel cream – I prefer this more refined style to that of the last but would wait 2-3 years for that creaminess to fade – but it’s a lovely finish for a villages…
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champ-Gain
Extra intensity and energy to this width of aroma – a faint smoky note too – this is a fine invitation. Direct, mineral, great texture and it’s such an obvious minerality too – fine Puligny !! I’m really loving this finish !!
From Rognets just above Clos des Cortons, 4 parcels of different ages. Almost a hectare, but each parcel is quite different to the others. ‘It’s almost bizarre, right in the middle we have sand.’
Ooh – what a list of words I could use; airy, pure, precise, yellow citrus clarity, energy – you WANT to drink this. In the mouth, stony, mineral, there is power here but no fat – despite a small generosity to this ripe citrus. Clearly, next level after the Puligny 1er – that’s going to be a great one – just so persistent and stony finishing – here with a little barrel warmth but it’s going to be great for as long as you have the patience or the cork allows… Bravo!