Tasted in Lancié with Gilles Gelin, 20 May 2016.
Domaine des Nugues
40 rue de la Serve
Tel: +33 4 74 04 14 00
Gilles Gelin’s father, Gérard, bought the Domaine des Nugues in 1976 – Gilles, who has been responsible here since 2000, is a 4th generation vigneron. The domaine is today about 36 hectares, 21 of which are in the appellation of Beaujolais Villages, with 3 hectares planted to white. There is also close to 3 hectares of Beaujolais appellation, the rest of the domaine’s vines are in the crus.
Gilles explains, “My philosophy is ‘culture raisonable‘ There are some herbicides, but really on a very low-level – I want to absolutely minimise the possibility of pollution. And of course we all want to stay healthy, it’s important for our kids too.”
All the domaine’s production is commercialised at the domaine, plus a little négoce selection ‘of interesting things from friends.’
THE address for Beaujolais Villages!
All 2015s are in bottle, but wont commercialise for another year. All the bottlings per cru are done at the same time, so every bottle has the same quality – just a single mise. Vinify in parcels, assembling before bottling.
50% cement and stainless-steel, cement for more structure. The shortest vinifications are 9 days, the longest 15. Destemming depends on the vintage, actually there was a little more destemming in 15 than 14.
2015 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Bottled in January – ‘looking for tension, so blocked the malo 30% in this vintage, but normally not.’ Some argilo-calcaire here, in Lancié. Don’t want to copy Burgundy looking for an apero wine.
Quite a wide and open nose, lots of freshness if not much focus. Mouth filling, a little minerality and quite a nice growing and mouth-watering flavour. A decent burst of finishing flavour, not too austere in minerality. Quite good.
2015 Beaujolais Villages Rosé
Manual harvest, rosé of press, in bottle a couple of months.
A wide and fresh nose (this is cold though). A faint herb. Round, a little mineral, fresh but with some padding. No faults, indeed quite an intense mid-palate, yet relatively modest if you’re looking for tasty rosé…
Deeply coloured. A tight depth a but a fine width with faint herb and an implication of clarity – nice. Mouth-filling, layers of flavour, a little herb in the mix, but this melts nicely over the palate. For the label, this is really excellent!
One part is classic goblet, these oldest vines can’t really be changed. 7 different vinifications are assembled here, 30-40% destemming – looking for fruit. Bought first Fleurie in 2005.
A rather tight nose yet there a suggestion of the massive in-waiting. Mouth-filling but with a fine softness of delivery – that’s no critique. This comforts the palate and has really lovely flavours get younger – it should really be super…
Just starting to commercialise.
Wide, fresh with a tight depth. Ooh – lovely in the mouth, layers of flavour, soft and cosseting texture. Fine and intense in the finish – top!
Less aromatic density but a more open and attractive combination of flowers and red fruit – lovely. Also in the mouth, there’s less fat here, but there is more complexity and an airy, open impression to the flavours. Beautiful flavours and lots of florality in the finish too – super!
Two parcels but one vinification. ‘A little more in the direction of fruit because when I try to extract, the tannins start to harden’ – 30% destemmed. Some barrel elevage in barrels that have already had three white vintages.
Fresh, dark-fruited great depth of aroma, tighter above. More structure but bright fresh and pure dark fruit is the glue – this is lovely wine – little tannic bitterness provides a counterpoint rather than anything negative. This is a baby, but I find super. Yum! Super length – excellent today, it could become a bravo wine!
Really pretty with some flowers and lithe, lissome red fruit. Also with volume, complexity, a hint of herb, really nicely intense mid-palate flavour, less waves than the 2014. But really lovely and for drinking now without any shame – a brilliant BJV address!
A more subtle nose but with depth of darker fruit and very nice flowers. Here is a hint less sweetness, and much more direct line of flavour, a flavour that slowly melts and widens over the palate. Really this becomes much more exciting from the mid palate with a width and simply delicious complexity of flavour. Still a baby, but really a tasty one!
2013 Elle et Lui
A blend of syrah and gamay – vin de france – the first vintage from 50-year-old syrah vines
Wow – a ‘pop’ of bright flowers, almost a menthol impression too. Hmm this is very silky – menthol in the flavour too – cool fruit, wide yet direct at the same time, and with a fine finish. Really a lovely wine…!
Commercialising right now. ‘Esprit is the antithesis of nouveau.’ 100% destemmed, 22 days of vinification, elevage in barrels and demi-muids, 1 year of elevage.
Complex, pretty red fruit, a growing width – discreet yet with some complexity. Mouth-filling, round, a halo of fine but ripe tannin – virtually no dryness in it, despite the volume – floral fruit in the mid-palate. Honestly you would never guess the base appellation here. Simply an excellent and very young wine. Really super length
2010 Beaujolais Nouveau ‘Premium Reserve’ les caves Taillevent
‘Not really a wine for sale but like to keep some bottles to keep in mind how they evolve when I see a similar looking vintage at harvest time – what might we do different to make better?!’
Slowly, slowly opening – pretty and floral. Round, very modest tannin, fresh and lithe and with a pretty intensity. Finishing with a width of flavour and many floral notes – lovely.
Wow – sweet, forest floor, bright, approaching a pinot style. Round in the mouth, maturing. Cool fresh but also sweet and floral fruit. Bright fresh and simply very, very tasty in the finish. Bravo!
Large scaled nose, a little reduction, slowly widening. Large in the mouth, still a little reduction here, explodes in the mid-palate and into the finish. Super-bravo. Modest until the finishing flash of brilliance