tasted in Villé-Morgon with Claude Emmanuelle, 21 April 2016.
135, rue de la Voûte
Tel: +33 4 74 04 23 35
What a super 17th century house, and right in the middle of the village!
This is a family domaine, currently being run by Claude Emmanuelle, the daughter of Louis-Claude – and for generations at this address. Claude Emmanuelle is the 8th generation. The domaine enjoys 11 hectares of vines in Morgon – only Morgon – but from 4 different terroirs around the village. Everything is sold by the domaine in bottle. Old vines, worked ‘not strictly‘ bio, “but with lots of respect for the terroir.”
About 65% of their production is exported today. In France it is mainly a mix of agents and direct clients. The wines selling for €10-22, depending on the cuvée.
This is domaine with a strong reputation. My experience of the wines is that they are high-achievers at this domaine, but it was a surprise to me that the wines, on this day, seemed very good, rather than great. I know I found the wines more interesting when I tasted them blind one week later…
2 cuvees are part destemmed, the first is:
2014 Morgon La Voûtre St.Vincent
From 5 hectares of vines in the climat Doubie. Average 60-year-old vines, usually the first to be harvested. Made with a 14 day maceration in cement tanks, with some destemming for this cuvée since 2008. Bottled in May 2014.
A modest nose, with a depth of good, padded, red fruit. Wide, fresh, a little herby and with plenty of acidity. A hint of pyrazine about this wine – but basically a wine of freshness and energy today, not particularly sweet. Long with a persistent herbal note.
2014 Morgon Côte de Py
From the north-east of the hill, 90-year-old vines and no destemming. About 15 days of maceration. Bottled in July last year.
A delicacy of aroma – a faintly floral accent too – nice. Here is extra sucrosity, plenty of tannin, but lots of flavour dimension and freshness. This is really very much a baby, but a very tasty baby – wait about 4-5 years. But this is really good. Really persistent…
2014 Morgon Javernières
A different soil, so separated. There’s more clay here, and the grapes are a little slower maturing – here needs more time. This was bottled in December. This cuvée is destemmed, but also from younger vines.
A modest freshness of perfume here. Here is a fine dimension of flavour, part floral, aided by a hint of pyrazine. The structure is there, but all is well-rounded – here is a fine mouth-watering flavour to finish ending with faint flowers…
This second cuvée of Javernières is made from a much older parcel of vines ‘Les Impenitents.’ There’s some destemming here but less. Also bottled in December.
A little more open nose, very faintly floral with a fine clarity of darker fruit at the depth of the nose. Super-silky. Wide, with a slowly growing tannin and a really complex, almost spicy base of flavour. A fine wine here with just a hint of salinity too. Mineral and long. Really an extra class here.