Tasted in Morgon with Mickael Gaget, 21 April 2016.
Côtes du Py,
Tel: +33 4 74 04 20 75
Mickael’s house and domaine sit right in the hillside of the Côte du Py, surrounded by the vineyard’s blue stones that keep hold some of the day’s heat for the night-time. Mickael has some new plantings, goblet, but trying to keep in-line as he finds that cordon is too productive – though keeping a ground cover limits it to an extent. Mickael’s father, Maurice, bought in 1980, he was from Regnie and a metayeur, but as a young vigneron he was able to buy here with the help of SAFER. Mickael arrived in 1989, adding one hectare of Morgon, then some rented Fleurie – so the domaine is now 11 hectares. The picture on domaine’s labels is Mickael’s great-grandfather who was a vigneron at Château Pierreux (Boisset), Mickael’s grandfather also worked at Pierreux but his father was one of 7 brothers, and not all 7 brothers could have stayed working for Pierreux, but two of Mickael’s uncles still do.
Large concrete tanks fill the cuverie, but they are only for vinification. The domaine uses the same vendangeurs, and aims to make a ‘great triage‘ in the vines – “that’s easier with 20 pickers than with 50! says Mickael. The wines are aged in foudres and/or barrel.
The sell all their production o a mix of direct and export accounts. ‘No single market dominates’ notes Michael.
2015 Morgon Grand Cras
Normally a lower acidity from this parcel yet it seems to age very well – it’s rather sumptuous after 10 years. In bottle a couple of weeks.
Medium, medium-plus colour. A freshness of aroma – deep, clean fruit. Direct, intense, growing concentration, a hint of spice too. A certain bitterness like black olive in the finish – which will integrate with a little more time. That same flavour in the finish with fine length though.
2014 Morgon Côte de Py
Bottled in July. No destemming, elevage in foudres, like the last wine, on its fine lees.
A wide, supple, if modest intensity nose – slowly filling glass and adding some floral notes. Big in the mouth, floral with a suggestion of pyrazine. Here is a more moderated bitter-olive note – more like dark chocolate – a mineral, wide but fresh mid-palate. Open and floral finishing – lovely. This is very good!
With some destemming, remontage, pigeage – only ‘jus de gout.’ Elevage in barrels none new – ‘white’ barrels from Meursault.
A pretty, deep nose, just faintly matt as opposed to bright – but I really like e clarity of dark fruit at its base. Rounder, a little cushioning here, fabulous texture – though. A slowly growing tannin will remind you not to get too comfortable – yet. Full, impressive and round. No bitterness. This is excellent¨
2013 Morgon Côte de Py Cuvée Joseph
A round nose, less easy to spot as gamay (I think) as there’s a creamy oak that is coating that fruit. More direct, fine Côte de Py fruit here. The finish is showing some tannin and again a faint vanilla
2006 Morgon Grand Cras
Clearly a colour change here. A lovely depth of complexity, many mature notes but this is a wine with a fresh width, and fine complexity – it’s still a wine of plenty of structure – more herbal notes in the finish, and yes a faint bitterness that’s redolent of the 2015! Also in the finish, but it’s a long finish as usual…
“I think 05s mainly stayed a little hard and miss a little expression – maybe they are still closed(?)” says Mickael.
2002 Morgon Côte du Py
Wide, plenty of mature notes, plenty of herb. This bottle a little cheesy, perhaps bretty. Nicer in the mouth than the nose, a width of tannin and still with some dryness – interesting wine, for sure, but you wouldn’t be drinking the bottle…
2003 Morgon Côte de Py Cuvée Joseph
A deep nose of ripe fruit but a fresh almost powdery impression too. Big in the mouth with some sweetness and still, plenty of tannin – but the dryness is not too bad. A big burst of finishing flavour too – rather tasty flavour I have to say. A wine that’s highly drinkable and a little of fun! Almost a suggestion of vanilla on the nose here too!
2015 Vinum Memoria
A BJ villages, but ‘nature’… From a vineyard near Brouilly. No wood used, no sulfur or filtration either. The wine comes from old vines from Mickael’s grandmother. Completely carbonic.
Here is an overt, brightness of gamay. Quite large in the mouth, deep, lots of concentration, a little tannin, the flavours are fresh and energetic but it’s really not my style of wine – on the other hand, there is really a very good clarity here for a wine that could be labelled as natural. I like the finish!