Tasted with Mee in Morgon, 13 April 2016.
Domaine Mee Godard
Tel: +33 6 66 47 00 64
Mee met her Swiss husband in the US where he was working as an oenologue. Mee had worked with Ludivine Griveau at Château Corton André (before Ludivine moved to the Hospices de Beaune). She started here in Morgon at the begining of 2013, having had chance to buy the domaine. There is currently 5 hectares in Morgon from 3 lieu dits, but there is also some Moulin à Vent coming to the range, vines that were on fermage. Mee says that she’s just moved to ‘biologique’ in the vines.
It’s a small cuverie for the manual harvest, a triage table followed by about half destemming, depending on the parcel. Mainly concrete tanks for the fermentations. “I make wines for keeping” says Mee, I made just a little shorter cuvaison in 2013 vs 2014
“I think I sell more as export, certainly in 2013. I’ve just started selling in Paris though.” There are also sales in Quebec, Holland, USA, Korea, Hong-Kong and Japan. “In 2013 I sold some in bulk as I didn’t expect to get the sales so soon, but I quickly sold out!”
“The 2013s are almost too oaky for me” says Mee – for me it reminds of the brown sugar that early 2000 JF Mugniers had from their Remond barrels. It is my one criticism of these wines – aromatically there’s not much between them. But in the mouth they are all a little different – particularly the Cras – but essentially with a similar style. These wines really remind me of Corton – not a too structured and fearsome Corton, but rather for their vibrancy, clarity and line of delivery.
Simply a must-have domaine if you tastes even vaguely resemble mine – I would take anything here!
The entry wine – yet with simply a beautiful clean fresh and pure fruit nose. Sandy soil here, says Mee. Bright, fresh, gorgeously beautiful wine – really a fine intensity and clean lines – bravo! Just what I’ve been searching for – this is easily the finest aromatic I’ve met on my trip so far!
A deeper nose, almost inky, a little herb above, again with a very fine freshness. A little more density of concentration but fresh, lithe and intense. Lovely flavour over the palate. A long finishing line of flavour – different, but still bravo! The nose keeps getting better and better with a cushioned but gorgeous detail – yum!
There is an obvious aromatic similarity in the smooth, gorgeous top notes, but below this wine has more depth of dark-red fruit – the same clarity of delivery though. Wow – here is a really fruit driven wine but with intensity and fresh energy – too fruity? Who knows but it’s clearly way too delicious for its age. Move along, I can drink this all by myself!
This changes a little in 2014, but this the number of Mee’s mysterious parcel selection on schist and blue stone in Côte du Py. Only wood elevage with some new oak – a mix of foudres, demi-muids and barrels but looking to mark the minimum possible. Here is 21 months of elevage, 18 in barrel. (It’s about 6 months less for the other cuvées)
A deep, muscled nose, one that’s a little different to the previous wines – it reverts to the family resemblance with time in the glass. Dark fruit but with exceptional clarity once more. Big in the mouth, textured and indeed a little cushioned. Faint salinity, layers of silky flavour – bravo!
2014 Morgon Corcelette
Here is a hint of pyrazine – some florals too, with a vibration of minerality. More direct, lithe wine – more concentrated than the 2013. Direct and intense but as usual (so far) with very fine clarity and a base of tannin accented with salinity. Lovely floral finish, more serious material here vs the 2013. Super potential. The clarity of the other wines is clearly present in the last drops of the glass
A deep, vibrant aromatic – super, really super. Serious, cut with minerality, salinity and a great texture – again, bravo wine! Here is quite some complexity and a little more padding and ease of accessibility, despite the concentration. Lovely balance…. Gorgeous finish (I feel I’m using that word too much!)
Again a vibrant, deep super crystalline fruit. Ouf – I keep search for essentially the same descriptors here – the wine has super texture, clarity of flavour, intensity and concentration. A fine burst of floral fruit in the finish here…
14 months in barrel, bottled 15 February.
Vibrant dark-red fruit a deep clean well of fruit. More direct line, really so, beautiful complexity of fruit flavour – hard to believe but this is even better!